dpmiller

OK so your second picture shows the internal wiring of the motor and it's encoder I think. They just need swapping over for L vs R travel. so that's mains supply, then 5-core to the photocell 2-core to the closed limit 2- core to the lamp (these look like they're all SELV) and coax to the antenna

I put a Grundfos Scala on a job recently (ring main for a DI water system) and it's remarkably good at modulating it's speed and will shut off completely if dead-headed. Previously the customer had a single speed Grundfos boost pump and the reduction in waste energy shows in the holding tank (270l or so) being about 15 degrees cooler than previous...

that drawing A is a bit confusing, there's a bit more cabling there than it looks. We'd really need the whole book to see exactly what's going on re sensor placement and such \colours aren't that relevant but it looks like those 4 also need an earth so depending on how you're installing the cable that could be either an ordinary 5-core flex or something like a SY or YY control cable.

what is holding the joists up currently?

aren't batteries in the loft frowned upon too?

looks like the door is sitting across a cavity closer to me?

Does your neighbour own his land/ what rights does he have to it?

on our keylites there's a manual emergency release that disconnects the drive chain from the manual bar, are the Integras similar?

week 48, 2009?

Dave the manual refers to a check valve being in/under the blue inlet fitting, try there...

yep look in the brass fitting. bit of grit under the rubber disc maybe

no, not under the tray. from the wall onto the tray...

What tanking system are you using and how does it attach to the tray? That might answer your Q...

it's like a dimmer switch. it turns the heat up and down and so you will see the voltage vary, yes.

both panel and bracket being screwed through multipanel won't be helping

the top bar would've been better bracing across onto the wall at the window

methinks you're confused. Splits need filling, not monoblocks...

the pipes all look a bit crammed in

is there not a protective thermostatic valve on the hot tank?

Those chinesium dampers may not seal off terribly well and are a pain to try to interface as they're live to open/ live to close. A spring return one would be handier...

Nope, 3kW continuous is too much for a 13A plug.

too much for too long. There's always a small amount of heating effect at a contact point- which in the case of a plug tends to weaken the sprung contacts that hold the fuse. Vicious circle then... Tumbledryer? Immersion heater?

can you pop a cable tie around the bottom pin once it's in place, to hold the door "up"?

how many kW are you pushing through the rad pipes?

so what kind of PRV is before the tank? Some have a fair bit of restriction- even before the strainer gets clogged...