dpmiller

Is it a busy road/ if it was done on a Sunday morning would anyone notice?

have you decided this is a problem without actually seeing an issue? Restrictions at the tap or shower will reduce the effect of the connectors...

oops

likely capacitor, yes.

Is this a timber frame build? If so, the compriband is a good call and I wouldn't agree with @nod as there could be a bit of frame shrinkage yet...

depends on the flowrate

to clarify, this won't be a worktop (as I refuse to have anything other than a risk-free cheapo laminate for the work areas) but instead a table area at the end of a peninsula.

OK so finishing up my kitchen plan at the mo. Costs are as ever a focus, and as much as I'll likely just be going to Howdens for the cabinets, doors, and standard worktops, I also need a 2m breakfast bar in something hardwood. I'm not convinced Howden's product is brilliant in price (or maybe even quality?). Do the collective have any local recommendations for a 2m x 950 x 40mm butchers block? I see a couple of the GB suppliers are happy to courier and for almost reasonable money but would be worried that it's unlikely to arrive in good shape...

surely the plumber is working backwards? If boiler and burner are running for now, just throw a pump in it. *then* look at the other stuff. Seems he's got his OFTEC profit head on... And if no-one is likely to take a hammer to the oil tank, leave well alone. Whilst it may be a little more brittle than it used to be, that's more likely just the surface drying out, like grey car bumpers do.

I *think* this is the latest EN for woodstoves? The useful specs are in this sample... https://cdn.standards.iteh.ai/samples/70953/f80d67b8d4d14275aedda4c54d923175/SIST-EN-16510-2-3-2023.pdf and the Bronpi I installed is designed in compliance. Next step is probably catalytic converts like the stoves in the US?

No you won't. No smart meters in NI...

what is the device?

a defrost cycle (on our ASHP anyway) is less than ten minutes every hour or so. Plus defrosts occur most often when the temperature is above freezing, so some of that efficiency loss diminishes when it's *really* cold. If stopping heating for a few minutes every hour makes a house impossible to heat then there's something else going wrong there...

Power is not heat tho. You'd need to load the diesel up until it's producing 5kW of *waste* heat to compare directly...

it's compatible yes, but the run time on that 1.3Ah battery will be very limited. The recip saw is a hairy monster of a thing and really needs a 4 or 5Ah battery to support it's needs. /speaking from experience

boiler stat should be a dual one, control+ safety. Unlikely both would fail but you could certainly be getting kettling even at lower temps if there's a flow issue

I wouldn't be trusting an IR thermometer pointed at a shiny metallic surface...

it really seems like it's not going down far enough. Sometimes the little "rings" on the posts are hard to compress the first time round and can take a wipe of lubricant and quite a bit of force to get them started. Try also pressing the button in whilst pushing down. /stupid Q- you haven't fitted multiple different seats and managed to swap the fittings over?

yes, but do you need to use the button to release it or will it pull straight off?

Kooltherm is Phenolic, not PIR?

yes, undersink drawers are a thing.

and you've tried poking the internal valve to free it up as recommended?

^ I'm with @ProDave on this, any bit of solar gain is good, even if it just shaves a few seconds off a defrost...

these are waterstop connectors, and they were left with no male fitting plugged in over the winter? The wee valve has probably got a bit of corrosion on, have you tried (say) giving it a tap with a screwdriver down the hole, or such?

If you don't use a prepared for- or installed- MVHR how do you deal with humidity and "odours" in the wetrooms?