dpmiller

methinks you're confused. Splits need filling, not monoblocks...

the pipes all look a bit crammed in

is there not a protective thermostatic valve on the hot tank?

Those chinesium dampers may not seal off terribly well and are a pain to try to interface as they're live to open/ live to close. A spring return one would be handier...

Nope, 3kW continuous is too much for a 13A plug.

too much for too long. There's always a small amount of heating effect at a contact point- which in the case of a plug tends to weaken the sprung contacts that hold the fuse. Vicious circle then... Tumbledryer? Immersion heater?

can you pop a cable tie around the bottom pin once it's in place, to hold the door "up"?

how many kW are you pushing through the rad pipes?

so what kind of PRV is before the tank? Some have a fair bit of restriction- even before the strainer gets clogged...

Is it a busy road/ if it was done on a Sunday morning would anyone notice?

have you decided this is a problem without actually seeing an issue? Restrictions at the tap or shower will reduce the effect of the connectors...

oops

likely capacitor, yes.

Is this a timber frame build? If so, the compriband is a good call and I wouldn't agree with @nod as there could be a bit of frame shrinkage yet...

depends on the flowrate

to clarify, this won't be a worktop (as I refuse to have anything other than a risk-free cheapo laminate for the work areas) but instead a table area at the end of a peninsula.

OK so finishing up my kitchen plan at the mo. Costs are as ever a focus, and as much as I'll likely just be going to Howdens for the cabinets, doors, and standard worktops, I also need a 2m breakfast bar in something hardwood. I'm not convinced Howden's product is brilliant in price (or maybe even quality?). Do the collective have any local recommendations for a 2m x 950 x 40mm butchers block? I see a couple of the GB suppliers are happy to courier and for almost reasonable money but would be worried that it's unlikely to arrive in good shape...

surely the plumber is working backwards? If boiler and burner are running for now, just throw a pump in it. *then* look at the other stuff. Seems he's got his OFTEC profit head on... And if no-one is likely to take a hammer to the oil tank, leave well alone. Whilst it may be a little more brittle than it used to be, that's more likely just the surface drying out, like grey car bumpers do.

I *think* this is the latest EN for woodstoves? The useful specs are in this sample... https://cdn.standards.iteh.ai/samples/70953/f80d67b8d4d14275aedda4c54d923175/SIST-EN-16510-2-3-2023.pdf and the Bronpi I installed is designed in compliance. Next step is probably catalytic converts like the stoves in the US?

No you won't. No smart meters in NI...

what is the device?

a defrost cycle (on our ASHP anyway) is less than ten minutes every hour or so. Plus defrosts occur most often when the temperature is above freezing, so some of that efficiency loss diminishes when it's *really* cold. If stopping heating for a few minutes every hour makes a house impossible to heat then there's something else going wrong there...

Power is not heat tho. You'd need to load the diesel up until it's producing 5kW of *waste* heat to compare directly...

it's compatible yes, but the run time on that 1.3Ah battery will be very limited. The recip saw is a hairy monster of a thing and really needs a 4 or 5Ah battery to support it's needs. /speaking from experience

boiler stat should be a dual one, control+ safety. Unlikely both would fail but you could certainly be getting kettling even at lower temps if there's a flow issue