markc

Just re read the post, so the OSB isn’t sitting straight onto the 6x2’s ?? And you are packing off the 6x2’s to create the slope? In this case you have created a hell of a lot of extra work and materials and my last post isn’t right, unsupported 11mm OSB will sag and fail

2.75m span will be fine with 6x2 timbers. 11mm OSB is no good for walking on. Snow loads are distributed so no problem.

I would make it level with the outside but leave a gap filled with pebbles or similar as a water break

The obligatory scribing gauge, done on a shaper no doubt. I have a 8inch Oxford shaper that I hardly use but wouldn’t part with.

Good morning and welcome, yes a lot of knowledge and experience with heat pumps amongst members

When apprenticeships taught skills. we had a 20+ lad apply to work with us, 3 year apprenticeship, loads of qualifications in mechanical and electrical …. Never seen a lathe, had no idea how to grind a drill and couldn’t wire a plug ….all his electrical ‘training’ used wago’s ?

I was told the gaps are to stop wind blown water from rolling across the roof, the gaps force the water to stop rolling and head down hill towards the gutters instead of off the edge

Sarnafil S327 is a tough fabric, we have put up a lot of fabric roof structures made from it. amazing how much tension you can put into it. Doesn’t rip, no problem waking on it.

But stealing someone’s house isn’t ?

Hi, you could do that no problem. It’s outside, appears to drain ok, you don’t need a billiard table flatness and anything would be an improvement, … get on with it. if later on you find it sinking a bit then you can always rectify it.

No need for a Walker plate for small area, sledge hammer works fine, scaffold tube with a thick plate on the end is better. … old school but perfectly fine for small areas.

+1 on the above

Hi, I would definitely sort out the down pipes, get rid of the vegetation, seal any gaps etc. Where water looks to be coming out ... easier to see when raining. If the other side is a fence post I would take it off, seal any holes and re fix with spacers to allow air to circulate. Under door looks to be a bit raggy, but could be me looking on a small screen. Possibly scrape out any loose material and re point with mortar or sealant. Also clean underside of cill, there should be a groove to force water to drop off and not track back towards wall underneath the cill.

Left side is more than likely the down pipes. Right side looks like it could be a fence fixed to the wall, if someone has gone a bit OTT with a drill the fixings could be pulling water into the wall. Under the door I would say the fill is the problem, not shedding water and drawing it back under.

Yes no problem on a 7n block with 200 bearing

Ahh, single door will be fine

How wide is the opening? The lintel is going to be carrying a fair load so really should have been on decent pads

Far too much info

Not good practice but really depends what load the lintel will be taking and bearing area.

Reminds me of when we were building the Motorola building near Bathgate … ground workers scuffed a cable … big fuss … hand digging only in that area …. Less than an hour later, pick through fire hydrant supply …. Fire pumps kick in and we have a geezer a few hundred feet high … that did far more damage than an excavator or 10 could.

Depends how big the bulk bag is and how full they fill it. dry sand is around 1600kgs per cube and wet close to 2000kgs per cube. what weight do they say they sell? 2 inch is roughly 50mm so 20sq m per cube. or 10 per wet tonne

Paving slabs close to brickwork ?. Saveasteading has explained nicely, plus you will be surprised how much water bounces back up from slabs

I would say your knock down and build costs would be similar if not lower than alteration

Can you post some pics

Wrong bucket on the digger, anytime digging around pipes and services use a bucket without teeth and you can feel everything. You only need teeth in bulk digging or rocky ground