markc

Yes quite normal, if the concrete is over insulation and UFH then compressive strength of the concrete is meaningless

Zoot, stop worrying about it, dry is ok. You are sitting slabs on it and it will go off. Not like laying bricks where you need mortar to Ouse into the frogs or holes. You can walk on the slabs straight away no problem with a good dry mix bed.

That is very dry sand, add a little water. If you could make a good sandcastle with the mix then it’s perfect no need for any additives, plain water is fine

Good afternoon and welcome

Good afternoon Sir, grout with sand and cement mixed as you did for the tank repair. gap between slabs and step fill with pebbles or similar to easily drain water away

Yes it will go off anyway from moisture out of the atmosphere or pulled up from the ground.

40-45mm is good. mix the sand and cement, nothing wrong with adding a bit of water, you want it to make a good sand castle consistency … the cement then just makes it solidify.

Non shrink tile adhesive (thick bed) or grout also works really well and no problem for the amount you will be needing. or if access is ok just ram dry mix under the column bases

Watter the stuff that comes out of taps.

If you have a reciprocating saw then the diamond blades work quite well

I would be using an angle grinder

@zoothorn I would say that’s a storage/packing sheet, never seen a peel and stick paving slab

70mm will be fine for this purpose. dry mix is pretty much sand as it comes, usually damp anyway which will be enough to set it off. Dry mix is basically concrete that doesn’t flow, it will pack together and stay put. if the sand was completely dry then you would need water but sand that has been outside will contain enough water

Rafters rarely split, I have seen loads of split battens though … usually caused by bashing the hell out of them to sink nail heads. the 2.65mm nails are much easier than 3.35 (old 1/8) size plus you get loads extra in a 25kg box

Not tight! The nail is only there to stop the slide sliding, you should be able to jiggle it a bit after nailing or they will crack. Hard to describe … sort of snug but not pulling down

Yep, you have to use a Dewalt straight away … or it will go off and fall apart.

Never done an ICF wall but loads of concrete, concrete needs a primer for stickiness! I can’t see a problem going straight onto styrene, just make sure it’s clean and dust free.

I agree they should be well insulated, my daughter moved into a new build 4 years ago and it is terrible! It’s cold, costs a fortune to heat and you can hear the neighbours talking and their phones ringing. just bought her a 60’s council house and it’s completely different, so much warmer. and low carbon electricity is going to cost us a fortune ..get ready for net zero poverty

Massive development not far from me, mostly 4 bed detached, virtually no rear garden, front is just tarmac for parking two small cars and gap between houses is approx 300mm … effectively terraced. Where do you put a heat pump?

I agree it should be openreach, when I wanted a new cable they told me it was mine from the pole so I would have to pay, so I did my own.

Hi, no regulations or even guidelines, no need for a slope as the wire sags creating a water drip point.

Any video? … share the £250.00 ? think I will be doing a happy dance once I find a suitable plot.

Blunted nails cut the wood fibres as they go so less chance of splitting but a much reduced pull out force, no problem in shear. sharp nails push the fibres aside and create more friction, but also increase splitting forces.

Never seen anything “off the shelf” I have seen dual face protruding windows done by taking one side off of a bay window with a base and top done as you would for a normal bay. I could see a manufactured unit being very pricey and a compromise, so I would definitely build my own if I needed one

Wouldn’t it just be an ordinary window mounted at an angle