markc

Depending on floor finish there is no need to floor fix. If you are screeding then the screed will secure the partition, remember to double sole plate to distribute load across insulation and also leave enough above screed to fix PB to

+1 to @gravelld comments. Easy to do badly, can be very tricky to do right

Trust estate agents to find any excuse and way to inflate prices… brexit doom and gloom … we expect property prices to rise. a meteor will destroy the earth …. Property prices rising at the fastest rate since 1860. etc etc etc

One light? I didn’t see anything mentioning halogen floodlights. I figure LED feature lamps so maybe 10 fittings @ 10w each. Less than 1 amp even with some voltage drop.

Interesting points and I fully understand where you are coming from. many of our tree surgeon customers are still getting payments to burn wood, to dry wood, to burn ?. im sure they are supposed to use the heat produced to heat homes etc but several have bio mass “boilers” satin containers in the middle of fields just burning wood waste and getting paid for it.

Logs are not fossil fuels … bio-mass so it’s considered green

Armoured not needed, 0.75mm2 3 core (assuming fittings are metal and therefore need earth). Push it through plastic conduit or even UFH pipe or garden hose anywhere it’s open to being walked on or buried etc.

I am assuming he has solvent welded them in which case they won’t leak, I would be more concerned with the smaller pipes becoming blocked and no way to get to them

If you aren’t using it, maybe you should sell it

@pocster, +1 on all the above advice. CT1 or similar is your friend. Had it been around 100 or so years ago the Titanic might still be afloat.

I reckon it’s the dimples on underside of tray, add a thick bead of silicon and put back in. yes the seal should work from above but I had a similar problem with my cast stone tray,

Railways use blue hats for newbies and white after 6 months track experience

Cheap as chips at SF and comes in handy for lighting. slope hole downhill towards outside and form a drip loop unless going downhill once outside. wouldn't bother with the cover

Looks to be above ground ?

If you sand blast the bricks will probably look lighter, the blackening is water and soot run off at the end of the cills, a good scrub with water and detergent should remove most of that. If not a wire brush which will also remove the paint … pretty straight forward DIY makeover/freshen up

In an ideal world you do not build over services but it does happen quite often, no real difference to building and then routing a cable into the building. obviously take care not to damage the cable (and even more care when looking for it because they often snake around and are nowhere near where you think they are). Protect while works are in progress and include detail to prevent foundations and walls etc from imposing any load on the cable or ducting (if it’s even in a duct)

As you only have 10mm above I would not screed over the duct, the screed will crack and break up. I would screed and allow an inch or so either side clearance, then after laying the duct, grout up to top of duct level and cap off with 10mm ply or OSB so most of the load is transferred to the grout/screed and duct verticals.

Solicitors always “want” certificates to dot the I’s and cross the T’s and cover their ars#&£. but in reality the certificate isn’t worth the paper it’s written on. yes buy from a reputable supplier who will probably be registered but I haven’t had a door or window installed by anyone else in 20 years.

Anyone can fit or replace windows and BC would not be interested. if the building is listed then it’s a matter of design and materials but not who fits them

Get a chainsaw helmet with mesh guard/screen, very low cost on eBay etc.

Really good tower, it’s clean, not been bashed about and looks complete, got to be worth £1500 easily

As an aside, I think my notion of a correctly constructed wall plate being a strain ring has some merit? I agree, that does mean taking the roof off to do it as a wall plate. you could jack up the ridge to correct height (plus a bit) and then add tension members (cables, flat bar etc) adjacent to the wall plate to hold the hips together.

Wether commercial or domestic, roof loads have to go somewhere, yes you can have hipped roofs without ties but then they need moment connections at the top. unfortunately you have a low pitch roof, simple hip to ridge connections, weak walls and very little to hold the eaves together…. they could have used trussed or tied rafters and there would have been no problem

Agree with Peter and joe on this one, sounds like it’s at failure point and a snowfall would bring it down. as a temporary measure you could prop the ridge to stabilise it while emptying.

@patp just been having a re read and now take it that your husband who is a plumber has cancer … sorry to hear that and my apologies, I read it as your plumber’s husband.