markc

I really don’t like plinth fan heaters, they sound great but in practice the localised rising heat makes me feel uncomfortable (my GF has a single plinth heater as boards at that end and I can’t stand the feel of it blowing at my legs). … this may be a weird me thing tho.

+1, to Thea over. also if you ask for help in design and wanting a fixed price to do it, the sparky will give recommendations to make it easier, not necessarily better. might be worth getting someone in for a couple of days on a day rate with a view to input and trying some fittings etc

Couple of points to consider. if it is filling up with water when partially back filled then there is a high water table and a lot of water to deal with. minimum would be a perimeter channel, dual pumps with battery back up and alarm. The flagged floor will be straight onto earth so excavating and new floor is a must, and dependant up on existing foundation depth, this could be relatively straight forward to increase height and not need under pinning. This will be an expensive and complex job so the value needs scrutiny

Looking great, good to see a garage that’s fits with the house design

I’m no UFH expert but looking at this from an Hydraulic viewpoint, 11 loops regardless of length will require a high volume pump to provide a descent flow rate through them all at the same time. So I would say this is a pump capacity issue

Just for reference of electricity consumption. I live alone, have gas heating but I do like to tinker in the garage and make stuff. my electricity usage from 30th November to 30th December was 573 kWh ?

Omg! Excuse my poor English. … then again I am from Barnsley ?

Depends on the underlay, but if you are UFH then an insulating layer doesn’t make sense. engineered wood doesn’t have some natural “give” so much different to walking on concrete.

Polished concrete is just that … you polish (grind) off the top of the concrete slab to reveal the aggregate. As you already have the slab you are just wanting a decorative layer. loads of aggregates available to mix with self levelling compounds etc which can then be ground back to reveal the agg. You need a decent size floor grinder to minimise scalloping and ending up with waves and ripples in the finish

Sounds like you are on good terms with the neighbours far too much unnecessary paperwork and arse covering “agreements” now. use the template or just write a simple declaration detailing the works you will do and that you will (as soon as practical) make good any damage.

Turning off the supply to the tank and letting it empty will stop the leak. immersion cable will not be big enough for an electric shower so a new cable would be required. 60amp incomer fuse is fine

Often a nightmare between old and new floors, get it right and looks great, sadly too many try butt one up against the other and it shows through the floor finish. assuming it’s just minor level/s then a liquid compound over the whole floor will sort it. im assuming and hoping the two slabs are dowelled together to keep them aligned

All of them are likely to be accurate, kitchens are very like cars, they all do the same job (but prices very drastically) some better than others and it’s all down to personal choice. chipboard is chipboard but even that comes in very different grades, fittings make massive difference to the ‘feel’ of a kitchen, especially drawer runners and hinges etc.

2 post ramps do not need big bases under them (1sq metre at 150mm thick is more than enough) the ones with longitudinal legs will even free stand but that’s not ideal. mine sits on the 100mm thick slab with a couple of bolts to stop it moving if (when) I run into it.

Mine manages to communicate a few times a year so bills are very misleading, and still no idea how they are supposed to save energy? My machines all use whatever power they need while I’m using them, the meter simply records what I use and saves a meter reader coming to see me.

Non that I know of, then again I don’t know anyone who actually torques CU’s Even on high voltage and very high current installs and cable replacements we always went on feel.

I got that too … not the best worded or informative email, couldn’t workout if it was a rant, a warning or just junk.

Good morning, welcome and +1 to the above. a search on here will cover most topics and if you still can’t find the info … ask away.

How about leaving the shadow gap and filling the void with expanding foam to stop them getting in. a wide caulk/filler bead would look like a bodge job. or cover the gap with some flat white pvc trim

Good morning and welcome

+1 to this, any water landing on the brick will end up inside if the brick leans inwards or will be pulled in by capillary action. you need a fill to take drips clear of the brick

Knock in insulation fixings. T shaped plastic plug (like a big nail).

MVHR will dramatically change the atmospheric and surface conditions once up and running. Timber, flooring, worktops etc. Should “normalise” in these conditions before being fitted or they are likely to move/crack/split etc. timber is quite happy in wet conditions as long as it stays wet. It’s the change from wet to dry and vice versa that cause problems.

If they “are” decorative then removing them will not change anything. are they connected to the walls or simply screwed or nailed to the timbers above? assuming they are not connected to the walls then removing is no problem and taking them out along with the ceiling will remove load from the trusses above so all ok.

As it’s only temporary do you really need or want to seal it? a squirt of foam at each end will do and can easily be removed when needed