markc

This is just the sort of job that is easier to do than explain

Assuming you have no high side bits And the centre is your level and guide then a bed on these as if you were laying bricks and some good “dolops on the side bits to add stability, bed down to level and then afterwards go back and point the sides up

Okie dokie, good ole CT1 … every builders best friend

Just about any flexible material or filler will do, are you sure the noise is from the small gaps? More likely board movement acting like a sound board. Or transmission through the structure

Absolutely right, economy of scale! The bigger turbines are so much more efficient from production, infrastructure, output and maintenance wise. we supply a lot of access equipment for blade maintenance and it’s amazing how many are not producing due to poor placement and specification.

Many hill tops are not suited to wind turbines, or should I say not efficient anyway. If the wind direction is up the slope you can have eddy’s and vortices. wind turbines need steady, linear air flow acting evenly on the blades. Different wind speeds between bottom blade and top causes cyclic loads and they are noisy and cause premature blade failure. swirling wind, gusts, too low, too high all cause turbines to feather and shut down because they cannot react to the direction or speed effectively.

A lot of HVAC and dust extraction systems are poorly designed (if at all) and installed. filters can be too small or too large, air flows can be too low or too high. no use having a very fine filter with high air velocity as the small particles behave like bullets or shot blast material and destroy the filter as they hit it.

Good morning and welcome. Plenty of reading on here to keep you occupied while you wait.

You could electrify everything but without efficiency you are gaining nothing

Was just about to say acoustic walls do not have noggins connecting studs on both sides. But beaten to it

Hi, if you will be shovelling then I would stay away from Phenolic, a lot of the stuff now sits on the surface of the ply and once chipped it peels away easily. I would go with ply. A skin galvanised steel would work if it was in one piece but joins soon lift and then shovelling is a pain. as it’s an older truck just drop a ply topper on, leave the existing in place to screw to. Loads of screws and you will be sorted

The phenolic ply is good stuff but large sheets are bulk ordered by body builders. no problem with a joint, use an off cut underneath the joint to beef it up. Bitumen paint on any sawn edges to stop water getting in. existing bed looks like plain exterior ply.

Even at auction it is fetching stupid money, the online auctions have made it too easy to sell at over market value. Like EBay, people get into bidding frenzy and pay way over value for a lot of stuff

Cement and copper are not good friends

Unfortunately UK is so much more restrictive than other countries when it comes to planning permission and building homes. Also the amount of land available to build on is small compared to demand. I have been looking for over 2 years now and still not found a suitable plot or old house to knock down and start again. yes I want a larger plot so being a bit more selective but the plots I have seen are stupid prices. Luckily I have access to construction equipment and a lot of years construction experience meaning I can look at more difficult plots so hopefully I will find something soon. don’t give up, there is always a way

A hearth is there to prevent anything falling out of the fire damaging or igniting the floor etc. If you had say polished concrete floor and brick, block or concrete wall without skirtings etc then you have no potential fire risk. vinyl, carpets or wood floors, skirtings etc all need protection from hot embers and other flaming projectiles that come from log burners.

Hi and welcome

You will find that many of those are small strips of land to extend a garden and/or not suitable for a residential building

I would try Octopus, they were brilliant when I wanted the other two meters installed. All they asked is that I would accept a smart meter and they would then install free. (I had offered to pay to have the extra two installed)

Hi and welcome, the above is great advice. self build is rarely a way to get a cheap home, but a much better home for the same money …. With a lot of personal effort and work. Building plots are pretty scares at the moment and £100k+ is cheap unless you are looking at the highlands / top of Scotland.

@Nick Laslett I wouldn’t have any problem putting a timber pack under the sole plate (possible implications if it’s a fire wall). and nothing wrong with slitting and folding the flanges locally for ducts etc.

Nice!

Had a few “arguments” lately regarding this, far too many people have got it into their heads that cramming thick insulation into a small space must be better. Not sure if it’s some guidelines or Youtuber that’s giving out the wrong info.

Very rare for a fabricator to provide drawings. SE specs steel section sizes and usually adds “to site measure” or something similar. Sometimes fabricator is requested to detail base plates to suit site but again they rarely provide drawings. only pre order overlength beams or frames etc which are critical to sequence of works.

Is it a bodge or a difference of opinion on how to do something? Is it a bodge or how they always do it? what defines a bodge?