markc

Hi and welcome, all good advice above. 5 of 7 sockets not working sounds like a broken/chewed cable and or botched DIY wiring job so needs looking at as flooring could need pulling up and plaster chopped out etc. cracks in new plaster could well be weak ceiling or drying out too quickly. Leeds has areas of hig water table and odd strata so cellars can be difficult to dry out dependant on area, but on the whole the houses are sound.

Easy to rip door casings down to size

Well done 👏 looks fantastic

I prefer the Mapei jointing tape from Screwfix, it’s wider with mesh edges and flexible. https://www.screwfix.com/p/mapei-jointing-tape-white-grey-5m-x-120mm/69510

Everbuild Aquaseal, I hit submit before finishing typing doh!

I’ve used the Everbuild Aquaseal stuff a few times and it’s been great

Tanking brush or roller applied will work great on blockwork

Ar£# covering. I reckon your QS is saying this so there are no sudden “asbestos debris, hidden services, un filled voids etc etc” that could be used as delays or cost increases once the build starts. Get the demo/ site clearance spec from QS and use that as basis for your own demo.

As above, plus transition should be as long and smooth as possible especially when changing from rectangular back to circular relative to air flow. If the transition is short vortices and turbulence can occur and these will affect noise and efficiency.

Double OSB plus these Wow! Yes strong walls also add to the holding down as well as racking but I find it hard to believe they are needed. from a design point of view they are convenient as they have a tested and proven capacity but in the past braces and ties have served us well.

Really depends of the wall detail. These work great as anti racking pillars or mullions between windows etc. But can/are overkill for a pretty standard wall where boarding over a larger area will do the same job

Haven’t bought any batteries from China but US has been having a lot of their stuff built in China anyway. It’s now biting the US companies in the butt because they are losing a lot of business as the Chinese companies are selling direct especially in UK.

As @joe90 says, a cantilever supported solely on your side has to be the best option. Gutter can be built into the structure so no leading or other flashing required on the neighbours wall. No pillars or post to get in the way.

I only use CEF when necessary (a local independent does really good prices) but going into branch and asking can often get you 20 or even 30% discount at CEF

Best practice states lots of things you shouldn’t do, but are done regularly. an unsupported crack or fold wouldn’t be good, but over OSB I can’t see any problem unless it’s not getting skimmed.

Either that would be visible with the film on or they purposely pulled the film and re applied stretching over the dents. obviously not bird damage or scaffold stripping so you should have no problem claiming poor workmanship

CEF can be a lot more expensive for the same product without an account, if you call the branch you will get a better price than online. also try electrical direct, they are online and some good deals

Very nice! Great location and love the stairs

@Gus Potter only just seen this as it’s been a mentally busy week building a new design crawler chassis for a Mewp. But back to the post, I reckon you have nailed it (no pun intended). People rarely look at shear strength against load in nailed connections, I’ve seen trussed rafters doubled and trebled with literally hundreds of nails when a a few in each member would have been more than enough.

Height is from ground adjacent to the structure

Only just seen this, looks like polyurethane varnish. Easy to sand and will take a darker stain. Turn table upside down, sand and try the stain.

Do you know what timber the table is made of? 40 years old could be french polished or varnish both of which can be removed easily. if the wood is soft and has been stained then the colour is deep set and difficult to change (lighten) but can be darkened or reddened

Good morning and welcome

@tvrulesme Seeing as I have a load of helical bars I got in bulk you don't think it's worth shoving a few in for the sake of a few minutes work? what material are these rods? Reinforcing in concrete works well but metal corrosion in a masonry wall can cause more problems than it’s work. as for the mortar, you don’t need much for this job so a bag or two from Jewsons or TRav P’ won’t break the bank

The built up section will (assuming the glue is good) always be stronger and stiffer than one piece solid timber ‘flanges’ on a Larsen truss or I joist. Bit more fiddly to make but incredibly strong.