markc

@Gus Potter only just seen this as it’s been a mentally busy week building a new design crawler chassis for a Mewp. But back to the post, I reckon you have nailed it (no pun intended). People rarely look at shear strength against load in nailed connections, I’ve seen trussed rafters doubled and trebled with literally hundreds of nails when a a few in each member would have been more than enough.

Height is from ground adjacent to the structure

Only just seen this, looks like polyurethane varnish. Easy to sand and will take a darker stain. Turn table upside down, sand and try the stain.

Do you know what timber the table is made of? 40 years old could be french polished or varnish both of which can be removed easily. if the wood is soft and has been stained then the colour is deep set and difficult to change (lighten) but can be darkened or reddened

Good morning and welcome

@tvrulesme Seeing as I have a load of helical bars I got in bulk you don't think it's worth shoving a few in for the sake of a few minutes work? what material are these rods? Reinforcing in concrete works well but metal corrosion in a masonry wall can cause more problems than it’s work. as for the mortar, you don’t need much for this job so a bag or two from Jewsons or TRav P’ won’t break the bank

The built up section will (assuming the glue is good) always be stronger and stiffer than one piece solid timber ‘flanges’ on a Larsen truss or I joist. Bit more fiddly to make but incredibly strong.

As this was the external wall I’m presuming it’s still structural so pulling out and replacing is a lot of work. As it won’t be seen anyway rake out sections of mortar and repoint, ramming the mortar into the voids with a piece of wood or blunt chisel. The bars would do very little. After stabilising the rest of the wall you could chisel out around the pipes, pull them together, sleeve through the wall and then make good around them. Split a length of plastic pipe along its length and slide over the pipes to sleeve instead of disconnecting and passing through.

I would definitely go with Osmo top oil

If you are oiling then don’t use resin or other filler. larger holes glue in a knot or plug. smaller holes etc. Make some sawdust, mix with titebond or similar decent quality wood glue and use that to fill

Wall mounted taps (you can’t create an intention trip hazard by having to step over taps). Good extractor and plenty of lights.

A politician doing what’s right for the majority …. Good luck finding one of those

Yes, a bit of ground works would put the bottom step “in tolerance” they don’t need to be exactly the same but close! An obvious different step is a red flag.

Energy density, they are building towers of dense concrete or steel blocks and a automatic crane grabs and places the blocks or grabs and lowers them to the floor. You would need a massive water tower to hold an equivalent mass and height difference. They are also looking at deep shaft variants

Two stairs leading to one landing can have different rise and going, but any stair must have equal rises in that run. What is the ground at the bottom? Can this be graded to sort the bottom step height.

I would still just get on and do it, if when you came to sell the conveyancer picked it up (unlikely) then you could get an indemnity insurance against future problem, these do not cost much at all. Seller had to get one for an extension on a house I bought as the extension did not have planning.

Do you have nosey or problematic neighbours? If not I would just get on with it if you are effectively replacing an existing especially if you are intending staying put for a number of years.

Very expensive to have extrusions in a specific colour, but upvc paints very well with car paints (as colour matched plastic bumpers). This would be much much cheaper than a manufacturing plant stopping the line for a specific colour run.

Congratulations, plots are getting hard to find so well done. as above, don’t look at the whole picture (except design wise) but break it down into chunks and deal with them as needed

1st and second lift? Brick courses? Stories? And are you talking about a movement joint?

That’s much better than the ones I was thinking of, 24mm deep is nothing and lamp has a good diffuser angle

You could use an LED strip slotted into a Ali extrusion (similar to under cabinet). but 40-50mm at the apex of an eaves space isn’t much use anyway. poor energy rating on an LED especially as it’s only 10w anyway seems really odd.

Dpc is to stop moisture ‘wicking’ up from the foundations. As this stuff should be non porous then no way for water to travel up hill. Ideally space off to prevent any capillary action drawing moisture up between the surfaces

Now that looks vintage, hook looks much better, as joe says, grip on inside or Chuck it away and put a cable tie around the flex on the inside to stop it pulling through. on the bigger old ceiling roses we used to tie a knot in the flex … they never pull out.

Vintage style with a visible black plastic grip 🙈