markc

Have fun

You shouldn’t have any problems with pull through and heads will be to suit gun. You can hand nail but that’s so much more effort and vibration on the structure.

Good morning and welcome

Can you post a pic?

Possible the bath slopes the wrong way if water is pooling in that area. if you don’t need to move the screen then you could silicon the gap without replacing the screen

Strange to have steps to nowhere, are there more steps going down to a filled in cellar?

Aquaseal tanking is good stuff, all structures move and the tape will give and stretch to prevents gaps forming. Flexible joint tape is available from Screwfix etc.

Well know “USA” cherry picker manufacturer .. “made in USA” … yes the sticker may be but the machines are coming from China, and the factory is also supplying them under their own brand, identical!

Those objections are unlikely to stand up to appeal. basing your case on posted notices etc. seems petty and argumentative

What is the objection? It could be something simple to sort instead of trying to be legal and trip them on technicalities

Unlikely there would be a PWA from previous owner as it is you wanting to use the wall. if the neighbours wall is build over the boundary then you have a good argument and justification to use their wall. A PWA doesn’t have to be anything flash or long winded, a statement of what you intend to do, how you will minimise any nuisance caused and what you would do if anything went wrong and you damaged their property.

Morning, definitely won’t be a DPM (other than maybe a bit a tar or pitch) and definitely no insulation. you need a membrane on top of concrete or a water proof underlay to stop water being drawn up into the underlay or flooring.

It can yes. Although the two parts become difficult to move over time so a bit of fiddling shouldn’t disturb anything, in reality they can be a pain to remove without breaking them

I wouldnt self mix a 29sqm slab unless you have a couple of strong people (no sexism here) to mix and barrow (with a big mixer) plus 2 more spreading and tamping. Even then it will be hard going. 29sqm at say 100mm thick is just under 3 cube of concrete plus edge strips etc so say 4 cube which is a little under 10 tonnes wet to move, level and finish. 2 people can level and finish that with ready mix delivered.

You keep the underside stationary and screw the upper into it.

Hi, drains are usually a two part affair where you screw top part into lower section trapping the tray and seal between. They rarely start to leak unless disturbed. main seal is under the tray … seams strange to many but the top one does very little. Any water getting under top seal drops into larger bowl underneath, when this fills it’s seal should prevent water escaping under the tray.

Check water level, may be that the cistern is not filling correctly and this is causing the poor or non existent flush

Garage founds and slabs are pretty easy, much smaller area than a house and a few rough spots aren’t a problem.

Can you get under the tray? 1, to see if it is leaking and 2, to assist or enable replacement. seal shouldn’t perish but as this appears to have squeezed out the trap may have been turned, tearing or distorting the seal. replacement is pretty straightforward if you can reach under to clean up around the hole and hold bottom of trap while re tightening.

Yes that’s the idea, removes water from the wall but leaves the founds as they were.

Copper pipe can split when frozen, or it pushes a compression fitting off the end

@Keymon a small drain like the one above is great and will definitely help. french drains are often deep and large capacity and used for de-watering fields etc. around buildings, adding large deep drains can remove too much water destabilising clay, sand and silt etc.

Assuming your concrete floor is dry (DPM underneath) then the wood fibre is fine straight on top. If it’s an old concrete floor with no DPM under then I would use a underlay with membrane.

I would start with sorting the damp issue and allow the structure to dry out while doing other stuff. remove the build up bridging the DPC and clear the air vents. Remove any damp/wet plaster inside to let the walls breath. Good time to check timbers etc. Advice from Gus is spot on! Too many people (builders included) add drains without looking at the implications.

The 5mm wood fibre underlay is fantastic under laminate