markc

No corner shops 🤔

So they are building a wall disguised as a city

Intumescent isn’t a decorative finish, it’s there to do a job. Works just as well with a decorative topcoat as that would likely burn off before the intumescent fluffed up.

As above, if existing hole has been filled properly then no problem going close to it. do not cut a big hole close to top of a window or door as this could compromise lintel support. plumber should be more than capable of cutting a suitable hole.

I can see it from the SE’s point of view but feel BC is being OTT unless this is a big window with potentially high dead and dynamic/wind loads

Assuming there will be a couple of inches behind the stove then a cement board over the plasterboard will give piece of mind

Interesting article

Don’t keep us in suspense, we need details

Most mesh suppliers should be able to bend that detail, it can also be done on site manually but it’s a pain to do (fork bender and work along the mash one rod at a time bending a few degrees each pass)

Not sure how UFH under a structural floor works but nothing wrong with noggins to fully support a removable section

But what units would you use to define the grip?

Well done! But only people flying around in private jets are allowed to blow their own “green”trumpets. *eagerly awaiting the innuendos and filthy minded comments 😉*

What works are going on outside? While the windows are open. If it’s dusty then the dust will stick to the oil/grease causing stiffness (if stiff with window open then this is the cause).

I have just brought some timber in from Holland, only a few hundred £ worth so I just paid the local tax and it was delivered within two days! as a company (high value machines) we pay UK vat on customs clearance and claim back. that probably doesn’t help you at all.

Can’t see the difference wether lining or top paper, unless the liner paper was low melting point iron on. I have seen sheets of vinyl paint peel off fresh plaster due to no mist coat

Got to agree with @Conor why complicate it. Plus, You could fit perfect roof insulation and be throwing heat and money out through windows etc.

Where does it say 15 degree twist? And depends how long and wide the plank is. but planers are made to level and square bows and twists in timbers

No problem with those, the lip is from cutting the log on a double pass and blade not lined up exactly.

Osmo Top Oil

Damn! That means blokes have to read instructions 🙈

Not a fireman but seen too many insulated plasterboard walls peel away. My mother in law had a wall insulated this way and within weeks the adhesive failed and the whole wall bellowed when the door was opened and closed. I had to mechanically fix at top, middle and then through skirting (they had glued to plasterboard so it moved with the wall)

Cracks at the bottom and back are old and nothing to worry about. The front right corner needs some investigation. Looks like the rafter could be pushing brickwork out due to broken/rotten tie. still not the end of the world but would need sorting out and as this is the roof should be joint responsibility probably

The wall design depends on what it will be holding back, soil type, gradient, vegetation type and coverage etc. etc. 900mm is a low wall so fairly light construction should suffice, gabion wall would work well, easy to install and pretty fool proof

If you are replacing and it has been ok for years then there should be no reason for concern. in an ideal world you can do anything but site restrictions often mean compromises.

My Octopus smart meter took around 3 months to start communicating, i don’t have or want a remote display so wasn’t bothered. I just got an estimated bill and when questioned they confirmed the meter still wasn’t sending any info.