markc

I wouldnt be so optimistic regarding the existing floor being insulated, more likely it isn’t so putting pipes into the concrete is a waste of time and money. Drilling a hole would give you the answer but then that would puncture a radon barrier or DPM, better to check at the interface with new floor as that area will be disturbed anyway

‘Slippery ness’ of stone depends more on how it’s used, what lands on it and how often it is cleaned (assuming it’s isn’t polished to start with. granite has a very course jagged surface when broken making it ideal for non slip areas, basalt is finer grained but still much harder than many rocks so will keep the roughness longer. Foot and vehicle traffic will polish any surface over time. biggest cause of slippery is moss and general dirt filling the surface causing it to become slippery.

If the lead is cosmetic then what is stopping water going between the wall and tiles? plus the pitch is quite low so water is likely to be blown uphill and under the lead.

Main concern would be what the channel discharges into, if this is a foul drain then no problem but you cannot dump waste water into a surface water drain.

Stud to thickness of wall plus 10-15mm for D&Dv(unless others have a better thickness) then PD stud wall and overshoot onto wall as the starter board

Depth depends on where it will run to and distance. A drain can be pretty much level but the water has to go somewhere

Base size and configuration depends on the loads being imposed. A canopy has mass (weight) to distribute and uplift or overturning moments that need to be held down. a swing gate is a cantilever and produces a rotation load onto the pillar and it’s base. So the posts need to withstand bending and the foundation must have sufficient bearing on the ground to prevent it ‘cutting through’ the earth. brick pillars need to be massive or be brick around a steel or concrete core

+1, I would fix brackets solid and float the unit

Absolutely, I have seen it done the other way … down pipes at each end and low point in the middle … and looked more like a roller coaster than a gutter

Anti vibration mounts are used extensively in fridges, air con etc. They are simple rubber blocks with a stud or threaded hole on each end. no idea what the unit suppliers charge for them but very low cost on eBay or RS components (rare I can say that)

If you have DP’s at both ends then high point in the middle yes

Loads of existing. Buildings have smaller half landings, back to stair angle, domestic max is 42 deg, commercial is 38 deg. I’m 6-3 and I find any stairs lower that 38 deg hard work because I’m always deciding between short or double stepping. Our office main stairs are 37 degrees and loads of people trip on them but maybe because tread is on the min side. if I was designing and building a stair for myself I would be looking at 38.5-40 degrees for comfort or maybe down to 38 if the stair was going for aesthetics

That would work

36 degrees is really shallow for a domestic stair, making some risers 1mm different seems odd, does the calculator not have the option for .5 mm. as this is an existing property you have a little more “tolerance” and your floor coverings could easily explain a few mm at the bottom. is the 900 overall? Or tread width? If it’s tread width then the landing should be the same or bigger, but if it’s 900 overall then taking out the stringers thickness puts you very close to the 840. The jutting out first step after landing shouldn’t encroach on the landing so that could do with moving forward or being hidden by a newelpost. 184 rise to 190 is a big jump, it would be worth a moch up with some scaff boards to try a short section.

Good morning and welcome

Agreed. pre hang (fit) doors into casings, use 2mm packers top and sides, screw casing to door with screws at an angle so they can be taken out after fitting casing (you never see the tiny holes after plugging and finishing). this makes fitting a doddle and ensures nice even gaps. if your dad does not have a trim router then buy him one, cheap one is fine and so much better than chiselling hinge rebates. Look on YouTube for routing hinges to make a cheapie jig

No problem with that landing and if you must have a different step then it needs to be at the bottom to prevent falls. Amazing how a small difference in rise or going part way up or down a flight catches people out

Insulation has to be your main priority, also looks like single glazed windows so very draughty. UFH would not supply enough heat without sorting the insulation and droughts first. Ceilings look high so you can afford to loose some for floor build up but it’s a lot of work with doors etc. GSHP is a no go unless you have a field at the back. new windows, roof checked, roof insulation, cavity wall ins then start looking at the other stuff

If anyone broke in and ransacked my garage or workshop they would probably leave it tidier than they found it

Looks worse because someone has attacked it with a grinder. Don’t worry about it and as above, decoupling mat will protect the tiles. all screeds shrink, just slowly and there are thousands of tiny cracks a bit like crazy paving, you have just concentrated them into one spot.

Do you have a picture of the cracks? I’m assuming these are fine shrinkage ones and not big open movement cracks. I think the tiler is ars£ covering saying they will line tiles up with the cracks as I really don’t believe this is anything serious

If you can go around the outside then do it! The extra bit of cost will be outweighed by peace of mind. couple of years ago saw a new build where drains were run under properties and one needed the whole ground floor digging out after settlement destroyed a pipe run. Then again the mass builder also didn’t dig footings - they heaped type1 on the inside and soil outside to form trenches 🙈

As it’s fixed to the building, do you know the depth of the existing footings? Ideally the new structure should be footed at the same depth.

That’s it

Don’t worry, you haven’t ruined it. Better to learn now than crack tiles. Screed often cracks between rooms and doesn’t affect the floor. Tiler is doing right thing using decoupling mat.