markc

But if only fixed to top of brickwork it will still go over

Door width plus 3mm gap each side, plus carcass thickness (x2) plus allowance for packing off blockwork, say 10mm each side.

Hello and welcome, just about every topic and answer can be found with some searching on here and if that fails then post a specific question.

Hep20 fittings (no compressions) bury them in walls or floors and forget about them. we have tried Hep20 for low pressure hydraulics and it’s amazing just how much pressure and abuse it will stand.

The insulation goes behind the noggin, you don’t start and stop it either side. If the joiner is fitting the insulation and hasn’t taken it over the noggins then on this bit they are cutting corners

The rafters go all the way through the insulation so how can a noggin make the insulation level worse? Your joiner is right.

Depends on what the decking timber is treated with and how long it has had to dry out after treatment. You would not try to paint green timber and pressure treatment pushes loads of moisture back in.

Sounds cheap to me

Well said! It’s bad enough doing detailed quotes and then not getting the work but how many people are happy to carry out work and then not get paid with the client using an excuse like I’m going to get someone else to finish it

Handrail-less glass does have some give but it’s the glass in the channel that moves, your channel is not fixed correctly. BCO, scaffold, temporary works, surveyor etc. should all refuse to accept that.

I bought an old house that had been empty for a year, thick solid walls and cellar etc. probably took around 18 months of over heating it to dry it out properly. now my heating bills are pretty low considering it’s an ex railway property.

If they did the design then yes they own the IPR (intellectual Property Rights). If you build the house but with different materials then they have a good case to stop you or want the design fees. Changing a couple of bits is not scrapping their ideas and doing something different. if you do want to use their layout and general appearance then I would be approaching them and asking for a settlement on the design costs.

Solutions aside, if a part of the new should tie in/line up with existing then that should have been your starting and setting out point, not and Archi drawing.

Don’t worry about it. Loads of armoured cables in industrial sites that are encased in concrete, tarmac etc. as for differential movement, unless you have a big localised shear move then it will be no problem. Armoured cable will stretch without and compress without issue. Unless you hit it with a digger or pick it’s going to outlive you and many more generations to follow

Put 2 hand saws together, bolt through hanging hole at the tip and a clamp near the handles to pull blades together, odd to use but does the job

If you upped the section sizes by 50% then you would be pretty safe with BC for reclaimed or non marked timber but then you have to look at the aesthetics, cost of bigger timbers and additional loads so often costs much more to use reclaimed. I used to build some pretty big roof trusses and the mention of reclaimed pretty much doubled the price.

If it’s short cycling what temp do you have water and heating (boiler temp) set at. A week or so ago a couple of us were discussing this as we had both found that upping the temps to stop short cycling resulted in a big fuel saving, these are gas boilers not oil but principal is the same. a big boiler will not be very efficient or effective if it isn’t running hard enough so reducing jets/burners can often be false economy.

How are you determining it is oversized? Is it constantly firing and then turning off again pretty quickly? Or are you calculating it is oversized

I would contact planning, speak to someone and see what they think or feel. Have a couple of photos and your proposal to replace with something that isn’t an eyesore and rubbish collecting area and you may find they are happy with you to get on with it. If they do want a formal application then ask what they will expect as a minimum.

Why would you need to spend hundred or thousands on a planning application? As you are not looking to make it any bigger etc. take a few pics and put those in with the application …. A couple of hours of your time.

I would put an application in, can’t see it being refused and then you know everything is above board and there will be no complaints or objections (it’s amazing how complainers come out of nowhere when they see someone getting something nice

@ProDave bet me to it, I was thinking exactly the same, as it’s been there a long time already a replacement “nicer” structure would be an improvement.

Got to agree with @SimonD here, if you go IWI any internal walls that are not insulated will take heat out past the insulation, plus you are going to loose a lot of internal space to get anything like the same insulation level as doing external. If you have a stone or aesthetic exterior then IWI would be a consideration, otherwise wrap the building in a blanket.

Stud extractors are great for sheared or broken off bolts etc. but if rusted in then you are looking at drilling and tapping a new thread or using self tappers for refitting the cover

Doesn’t appear to be protruding at the bottom so I would say the wall is just out of plumb, or the wall leaned back and the new bit should have followed it