markc

Yes, I would reckon steel would be around half price of timber for a similar structure to the one pictured. Galvanised would up the cost but reduce maintenance.

Bognor Regis Waterworld, think it was 1988ish we built the glulam trusses, posts and purlins. Had to use stainless metalwork due to chlorine and ozone. Last time I saw it the timbers had discoloured but all still good. Horrible environment in the roof area.

You would not need stainless steel bracketry or fixings unless it was over a swimming pool. But getting oak in those sizes will be difficult and expensive and the shrinkage/splitting will be significant. I would go with Glulam, will be cheaper, dimensionally stable and easier to clean/treat

That’s me off smoothies for the foreseeable future

Sounds like a Confucius quote

If it was still almost 5 bar this morning then no leaks … unless you had a dodgy fill valve that was passing

@James94 pretty much all alike but make sure the tubes are in date, out of date stuff usually goes hard and does not mix properly. Main thing is to get all dust out of the hole. Clean hole, squirt the resin in, spin threaded rod in turning it anti-clockwise (threads then force resin inwards instead of pulling it out). Leave to set and you are sorted. oh and spin rods in through bracket or template (piece of timber) to hole correct spacing while they set

Morning James, with a short leg bracket, heavy sink plus water the toe of the bracket will dig into PB. Going through studs is great. If you cut out a bit of PB at the bottom of the bracket and replace with Ply or Chip then the load is transferred to the stud.

What’s on top of the studs? If plasterboard then your biggest problem is likely to be crushing of the PB rather than fixings pulling out. Resin anchors into the blocks with spacers between blocks and brackets or between stud and bracket if you are landing on the studs. m8 studs in resin will be more than sufficient

50mm of concrete over insulation is likely to crack anyway over that area so you would be better sectionalising it’s and using the joints as crack inducers.

If it’s for planning who would or will enforce it? Or even check? Just keep them shut and your neighbours can’t complain

Now that’s a brilliant way to advertise and show what you can do

Good morning and welcome, no such thing as a stupid question. Many of the regular questions have already been answered and a search will throw them up, failing that ask away

Ahh, yes I read it as chimney capped, when you meant the gas supply. Good thing you didn’t shove insulation up there as it would get wet and cause problems with plaster etc. plus always a good idea after capping the top to keep a small grill or vent in fireplace to ventilate the space and allow it to dry out for a while but this isn’t critical if the chimney is in good order

If capped off there shouldn’t be any draughty unless the chimney is in a poor state and allowing air to blow in through missing mortar

I can’t see any problem with 6ft fence panels, no line of sight issues and the container at the end would be a bigger violation than any fence you erect. I would just get on with it.

I can't see a reason for not applying that to people who choose inefficient houses, and opt to keep them less efficient. while my house may be less efficient than others, I use very little energy … possibly half of what many others on here use, so why should I be penalised for using less energy than an efficient house does.

Shouldn’t it be personal choice? My old railway property has solid stone walls and cellars and while I have improved it I do not want to spoil the inside or outside with bubble wrap. I choose to use a little more gas and electricity and keep the buildings character. When I find a plot to build a new place then yes it will be very efficient.

Shouldn’t catch like it does, probably needs the block moving out a bit

You can cut them down but does the threaded bit have a slot for an overflow pipe/collar?

Hahaha, both!

Newel posts are usually fitted against the riser of the bottom step so the handrail finished against the newel post pretty much vertically above the first step, but stairs sometimes (more often in larger wider cases) the first step fans out and is unprotected. But some BCO’s can be arsey so better to check beforehand.

Opening restrictors should be sufficient, failing that removing the handles and covering fixing holes would be ok.

900-1000mm above the nose of the stair and must prevent a fall of more than 1 step.

Waste disposal! Anything that stores food waste is going to stink unless you clean it everyday