markc

You don’t need to work out the pitch and height unless you specifically want to. but let’s say ridge height of 3m and eaves at 2.5 and run is 2.25m (half of the 4 plus a bit for eaves overhang). Gives a pitch angle of approx 12.5 degrees

Anyone can make a light fitting for themselves, frame is light wire brazed or welded at joints. Off the shelf lamp fittings/bulb holders.

What sort of hedge? Yes the digger will cut through the roots and it’s unlikely to bother the hedge, but you need to be looking at root protection for the foundations

A 1m cantilever is nothing in structural terms, assuming the porch is inline with the rafters/joists then I would go with your builders suggestion. If you were in a blown high snow load area then I would be looking into the loads a bit more.

Nope! Any fill material should be free from organic material (main reason you scrape the vegetation layer off a site before starting excavations etc.

Nothing really to fix it to, trim it back and/or bend it down into the gutter

No, make the chairs (blocks) as short as possible, short pieces placed at crosses.

I live in an old solid walled house, no Internal or external insulation and I don’t have any problems with damp or mould. It had been empty for a year or so which meant I had to overheat it for about 18 months to get it dry and warm again but since then no problems and my bills are pretty low especially as I never think about leaving heating, lights etc etc on. … oh and TV for the cat.

Pro forma is fine for HMRC but just in case a proof of payment is a good idea

I love the FU error lol. Nothing like an appliance trying to tell you something. short cycling so either nowhere to push the heat, boiler massively oversize or temps set too low for it to run properly

If there will be no side load (back filling etc) then no reason to tie walls into slab. No different to brick/block

Good morning and welcome

Floor loadings are often mis understood or applied. I have countless arguments with engineers who simply quote figures but don’t really understand the mechanics. We sell access platforms, majority on stabiliser legs and floors and nearly always xKN/m2 which is fine for general use but when it comes to non pedestrian traffic then you need to look deeper. point loads and distributed loads a 50kg person in high heals is a 50kg/cm2 load while walking which is a high point load but low imposed or distributed load while a 1000kg standard pallet (1200x1000) is only 0.083 kg/cm2 so the question comes down to what is under the floor. a thick concrete slab on spindle columns can withstand a very high point load but little distributed load while a tarmac surface over sand or gravel is useless for point loads but good for very high distributed loads. I have positioned and operated 5t+ machines on floors designed for light pedestrian traffic (5KN/m2)

Main thing here is tying foundations together. Brickwork can and does move slightly without any problems, a concrete wall has very little give or flex so any differential foundation movement can/will open cracks in the brickwork. Ensuring no heave or settlement is the key in the new foundations

Definitely take up with builder first, regardless of conversations they have not built to spec and drawings supplied so it is their job to get sign off. write to them explaining the situation and ask them to provide all information and agreement with architect to get sign off.

My first thought would be condensation from lack of ventilation but an open window is more than enough. I am assuming you are not using a mobile gas heater because they really do cause condensation. are there any holes in the wall or places blown water could get past the frame or be running down the cavity?

Laminate only works by courier if you send on a pallet

+1 if there are signs on the plans that this is not just a house extension then you can cast doubt into the process. Much better than just objecting

I’m with Octopus, variable but always stay in credit which keeps me on best pricing available and I have never had any reason to complain.

So not really a structural engineer, sounds more like a rebuild job with some ground stabilisation or underpinning so yes there is an element of SE but the first task would be to determine the cause of the problem. Again some better info and ideally photos would help

We could really do with more info. Cracks and subsidence is really surveyor territory but it appears yours is wanting SE input … but what for?

Same with all the help to buy schemes, but Joe public is greedy and easily deceived

Fair faced blockwork …. Brave soul and yes it will need to be spot on. Rules out packings so you are going to have to make up some door frames to correct dimensions, secure in place, plumbed both ways and then they can block tight to frame. make sure fake frame is solid so the verticals do not bow inwards or fitting the doors will be a PITA job

@richo106 here you go, air scabbler with 90 degree head. Civils usually use pole scabblers so they can do it standing

450mm isn’t enough for a straight scabbler anyway so might as well go for 300 and use right angle scabbler