markc

For small quantities you don’t need a boom especially at low level but as above, your time would be better spent placing the mix in one go with a well mixed batch. 2 cube is almost 5tonnes and that has to be moved on site, shovelled into the mixer and then from mixer into position … let the mini mixer or batch truck do most of the work. Most batch trucks come with a couple of guys who will wheel barrow into position for you

Winter pours are no problem, construction doesn’t stop in cold weather. Consecutive days of minus temps should be avoided for a pour but other than that only torrential rain would cause a problem. Slab as finished floor is likely to get damaged during the build so gouges and deep scrapes would be the main concern. No UFH?

Love the chunky look and inset posts:)

Very nice, well done

Can’t open the picture, only getting top bit of it?

They are one big trough, if you go to a stainless steel fabricator who does catering equipment and urinals etc. they will be able to make the trough at a reasonable price.

I have the opposite problem, we dont live together (yet) but I’m engage to a real spend thrift who doesn’t like spending money. I’m sure you all feel my pain ….. maybe!

20% has to be way over the top unless screed is very thin and pipe runs very close together to make up 20% of volume. Not that difficult to work out given area, screed depth and length of pipe laid

No reason to not use those to ‘help’ hep20 hold a 90 degree bend

After so many cooler washes my Bosch will only allow a high temp cycle, read somewhere that it’s for hygiene and to flush out any fat or grease from the pump etc

In a beam and block floor the block compressive strength doesn’t really make any difference, if the blocks are old and crumbly then stay clear whatever and however cheap they are

Crushed stone is good, you don’t want type1 as this will go solid and water is likely to pool, plus really needs compacting. Crushed granite or similar is good because it is sharp and doesn’t move around. Don’t lay a grid area much begged than the shed or walking/wheel barrows etc tend to shuffle the stone down and the grids float up (unless you spike them down at regular intervals) this doesn’t happen when you fill the grids with soil for grassed areas.

Not easy tracing telephone wires, but if this isn’t in a duct I suspect it is only a few inches down and easy to follow/pull up. Scrape out around where it goes into ground, get an idea of direction it goes and then work your way along pulling and spade or trowel to get it out of the ground.

Hi and welcome, many heating systems were installed with little thought to efficiency. Pipes under floors are often not insulated and simply loose heat. If pipework is not good then the cost of replacing while floors are up is greatly reduced. New (decent) rads can make a huge difference as can flushing a gummy pipework system if not replacing altogether

If the connection is in the insulation I would want a proper moulded or welded spigot connector. Also, have you thought about access in case of a blockage? 2 or 3 90 degree bends in 40mm pipe is likely to block at some point

Good morning and welcome, yes some real Heat pump guru’s on here …. I’m Not one of them.

Morning and welcome, it’s easier to take commercial practices to domestic than the other way around. Just as with a commercial project, break everything down into chunks, what’s needed when (critical path) and then juggle everything about as you find weird and wonderful previous owner bodges etc.

Several ways of adding blocks to beams, if filling completely then I like to bolt (threaded rod) straight through timber/steel/timber and sandwich the lot together especially if using joist hangers. If it’s only trim them small blocks wedged in place is fine.

Pick a float up and see if a pump triggers, if yes then try other one for peace of mind. If nothing happens power must be off and alarm could be power loss alarm

Out of use lines are often left powered up to make tracing or fault finding easier

No specific need to attach timber into a UB or UC steel, depending on steel section size and joists being fitted it can be easier to fit into the web and sit on bottom flange. Flitch beams look great if on show and are easy to put together but need to be deeper than a UB or UC for given span and deflection

At 6.5m a 9x3 will struggle to hold itself up and definitely not the rest of the roof plus a big snow load (flat roof and presumably insulated)

As a price it seems pretty reasonable, very easy to have a brick fall onto that roof tho.

Cabinet hinges are adjustable in/out and the movement is there to get adjacent doors to sit flush. Aim for no gap but it rarely happens

Am I missing something here? So you want to dump cold water onto your Ground source heat supply?