markc

Shouldn’t catch like it does, probably needs the block moving out a bit

You can cut them down but does the threaded bit have a slot for an overflow pipe/collar?

Hahaha, both!

Newel posts are usually fitted against the riser of the bottom step so the handrail finished against the newel post pretty much vertically above the first step, but stairs sometimes (more often in larger wider cases) the first step fans out and is unprotected. But some BCO’s can be arsey so better to check beforehand.

Opening restrictors should be sufficient, failing that removing the handles and covering fixing holes would be ok.

900-1000mm above the nose of the stair and must prevent a fall of more than 1 step.

Waste disposal! Anything that stores food waste is going to stink unless you clean it everyday

You only put good stone at the front anyway and backfill with ballast etc. the “dividers” are just there to hold bigger cages in shape, not to separate materials as you need the gabions to be packed tight or settlement makes a real mess of them. also buy well not cheap! Poorly galvanised cages do not last, they are intended for temporary works only or where they will be covered over as works progress

Getting BC approval for an installation in one position does not allow you to move it where you want, the wording may say it is installed in the property without being specific on location. that aside there are loads of pre made protrusion sealing cowls/shrouds for flues, downpipes etc.

Yes! Slightest impact on the edge will make it explode.

Gun nails will hold very well, but really comes down to preference and how much you want to spend. Gun nailing will be much much faster than screws and pretty much invisible but if you want to see nice straight rows of screw heads then it’s going to be much slower and fixing costs will increase dramatically

As above plus type of ground, size/type/proximity of trees or other buildings etc. if an extension to existing does it have strip foots?, depth ? Is it on a raft?

I would say that your requirements are much less than say an inner city site and as long as you clearly define the site and highlight dangers of entry and excavations etc. then you are pretty well covered

@Russell griffiths I couldn’t agree more. Been saying and practicing this for years. Yes deter the scrotebags but if they are determined to get in they will. better to loose a few bits with no damage than suffer the damage which is often many times the value of goods taken.

@TimCx yes electrical tape

As the pressures are very low and if duct is tight then jubilee clips won’t be necessary but taping is good to make air tight and prevent movement. Insulating tape is good due to the stretch and flexibility. Aluminium tape is ok on rigid ductwork

Assuming it is wired then you start where the wire is cut and work around the spiral pushing it onto the spigot a bit at a time. If you just try to push it on in one go the wire spiral closes up bunching the duct material making the id smaller.

Could well be a much more expensive alternative unless it’s for a garden shed. Sizing will be a nightmare, tying into existing will be a bigger nightmare and aesthetically likely to be a horror story. If you want cheap, get a conservatory, if you want an extension … build it.

“ I'll try a sloppy one “ is that a technical term?

Yes

Clippings do not compact but you can compact a thin layer into the base to key the layers together. the top layer of clippings will sort themselves out

CT1 will work well as it remains flexible. Gripfil is good but dries too hard for threshold strips

22mm chip (tongue and groove) glued and screwed will give a very flat and ideal surface for tiling on.

At that size I would fit the frame, get it all true, fixed and ready then lift the glass

Got to agree, also why chip floor then 6mm ply?