markc

Would the box need to lead directly outside or is the reasoning that 90 mins should be sufficient to get the fire out?

@joe90 that’s in the kit sparrowhawk bought, I have one too, fantastic little pry bar.

1.7 above FFL vertical or up the slope? Protected stair maybe possible but I would think this would have to lead directly to outside, yes you want to ‘get around’ the regs but if there was a fire how would you or family get out?

Where what has “chipped” away? If you mean the two flakes of cement then this is just a bit of over pointing

@wertert either cut off or slide a ring spanner over the end and bend up a bit

If there was an existing fence and it had been there a while, that would have been the assumed and accepted boundary

I would have turned the cut ends of mesh upwards to give you something to tie uprights into and to keep steel away from sides of trench to maintain a decent concrete cover.

Nice house! Well done

In some cases yes! Looked at an old farm house recently .. it was ugly, poorly built, could see any unique or even attractive features but listed! And the plot would have been fantastic for a knock down and build

Agree with @joe90 on this, a (well set up) table saw can and will be accurate to fractions of a mm. I can’t remember last time I used a jointer (flat bed planer) for straightening and levelling a board, I always use the table saw and rarely sand, or need to sand unless it’s for stain or varnish

Yes that the sort of thing, Ty wrap is a cable tie or push conduit into box through hole and wrap tape around the end then pull back so tape prevent conduit pulling back through hole

You can get “ends” for flexi conduit but they are usually pretty poor and pull out, easier to run the conduit straight into an adaptable box (Ty wrap or tape on inside to stop it pulling back out) and then go through back of that through the wall

+1 on the above, a bit of spawling brickwork won’t hurt anything but to rectify the concrete needs to come out and find out what’s going on under the corner, plus I think the pipe is possibly gas supply

You won’t get the variation with solid oak or solid anything, if cladding it may has well be a cheap soft stair but I can’t see cladding looking right at all. if you want the variation get it made from block oak worktop so you will get a similar look to the floor with smaller blocks.

It will be diamanté phone covers, go faster stripes and they/them pronouns next

Child labour … I like your way of thinking. now get off BH and get some bloody work done

Overkill for the loads you are talking about but a hockey stick would mean you only need a small screw fix into bottom cord while the load is taken on the top face of the bottom cord.

If you want to, and can fix a batten from top to bottom cord then this makes a very good fixing point, again there is no problem screwing into bottom cord but don’t ever notch it or drill a big hole through it. Bottom cord is in tension so removing material reduces its tensile strength.

30kgs as a frame is nothing weight wise for solid or engineered joists, if you were hanging a 30kg light fitting on one screw then I may be more concerned but your frame will be spanning 2 or more joists so very little localised load. If you can get access ok then screw through the web. If you are worried the bottom cord may come away from the web then don’t be, the glue used is incredibly strong

Helical retaining units (screws) work well

Weird! No idea at all

+1

Concrete and tarmac are both around 2.4t per cube. At 6 tonnes you are getting roughly 2.5cube of tarmac for £700 and for that you should get around 5-6 cube of concrete depending where you are. concrete would be better layed thicker where tarmac is flexible so less cracking with thinner layers.

Got to agree with @Declan52 badly layed tarmac won’t last long and if it’s already cooling then you won’t get it to compact enough to keep water out which freezes and bursts it into pieces. concrete is your friend here, so much easier to work with

As a store room it really comes down to load bearing capacity of the “floor” a sewing machine will create a lot of vibration and be almost impossible to use if the loft floor and structure are too flexible. do you have any pics of the loft as it is? Older property or fairly new build?