markc

The gaps are too tight to point. You could use grout mixed very watery and pour in but that could leave a lot of staining on the top. Dry grout brushed in and allowed to go off on its own or leave them to fill with dirt but that will encourage weeds

Good argument, you want access for their benefit. And some people just disagree with anything and everything so don’t stress over it, due diligence! You do what you can (and what’s reasonable) to make the works as painless as possible for your neighbours but you are allowed to have work done.

You can mist coat before it’s fully dry as long as it IS a mist coat and not sealing moisture in

Oh for the days before YouTube experts 🤯

Majority of outside work is done without a PWA, a single storey extension is pretty minor works. A PWA comes into its own when something goes badly wrong … underpinning a terrace house and the wall collapses, chimney dropping through roof etc. but from what you are describing it’s an extension not joining onto your neighbour so likelihood of a catastrophe is very low. You have done the right thing by making them aware. I would now just get on with it

If they are not responding then give them final notification as you will be starting works within one week, then just get on with it. If you were fixing to or altering a garden wall or works directly onto an inside PW then it’s a different matter

I’m sure the plaster would do it but as an extra and do really want to pay traddies hourly rates for removing wall paper?

Looks like the property is in a generally poor state of repair and/or needs modernising

If you are wanting UPVC, get in touch with a local supplier and let them supply and fit. This way they are responsible for the measure and any problems. Probably much cheaper than you buying and getting someone to fit

Most of the decisions come down to what you want and what restrictions if any you have. Swinging or sliding, colour and material for frame, budget, etc etc. your doors are not big so there will probably be “standard” units that will fit. If you are going for better thermal efficiency then your options narrow as the spec goes up.

You don’t say what area or any specifics etc. but the cost isn’t unreasonable and 80% on completion is more than fair.

Good morning and welcome, a search of past threads and topics can answer most questions and failing that, ask away.

Loads of replacement door seal sections available, quick look online will show some

You need some gap to allow the doors to be fitted and take up and level discrepancies in the beam etc. if the bolt heads are fouling then I would countersink them and fit countersunk head bolts leaving flush with the cleat (bracket).

If heat recovery units were viable the boiler manufacturers would be incorporating them into their boilers to increase efficiency. on a similar topic I remember when the new gas fired station at Cleethorpes was being commissioned… big song and dance about how much heat they could recover from the chimney gasses …. After weeks of problems they realised the exhaust gasses were too cold to go up the chimney and kept falling back chocking the combustion chambers

I can see what they are trying to do and their way of thinking but that’s a shockingly bad bodge job. Yes it looks neat from ground level and yes it’s ventilated but the chimney needs capping properly

Ironmongerydirect and look at drawer slides

Wow! Centreparcs going the extra mile to make you feel at home

Oh yes, when I bought this place (re wired a few years before) separate upstairs and downstairs rings .. great! Pity the ends were swapped over so the ends of both rings went into separate fuses … took some working out.

Also known as a generator power cut adapter

“Plans” or an artists impression? If they are plans and it says block paving then demand it, be aware that quick/poorly laid block paving will look terrible very quickly.

Does the contract say block paved or just paved? If it says paved then tarmac or concrete is within the definition

Definitely PVA, I prefer Titebond but that just because of drying time. Fibrous nature of MDF requires glue rubbing into the end ‘grain’ and coating both surfaces before bringing together. Biscuits or dowels if joints are likely to be stressed

Knock down and start again, it will be done in half the time, half the hassle, half the problems and probably cheaper than extending what you have. had the present extension been matched brick or stone then possibly using the existing makes more sense, but in your case no.

You can lay bricks or pavers over concrete but weeds will still grow in the gaps if they are not filled correctly, most people just brush sand but this leaves gaps for dirt, water and seeds to get in. Very dry fine sand (kiln dried) and a wacker plate ensure the gaps are full and tightly packed