markc

I’m sure the plaster would do it but as an extra and do really want to pay traddies hourly rates for removing wall paper?

Looks like the property is in a generally poor state of repair and/or needs modernising

If you are wanting UPVC, get in touch with a local supplier and let them supply and fit. This way they are responsible for the measure and any problems. Probably much cheaper than you buying and getting someone to fit

Most of the decisions come down to what you want and what restrictions if any you have. Swinging or sliding, colour and material for frame, budget, etc etc. your doors are not big so there will probably be “standard” units that will fit. If you are going for better thermal efficiency then your options narrow as the spec goes up.

You don’t say what area or any specifics etc. but the cost isn’t unreasonable and 80% on completion is more than fair.

Good morning and welcome, a search of past threads and topics can answer most questions and failing that, ask away.

Loads of replacement door seal sections available, quick look online will show some

You need some gap to allow the doors to be fitted and take up and level discrepancies in the beam etc. if the bolt heads are fouling then I would countersink them and fit countersunk head bolts leaving flush with the cleat (bracket).

If heat recovery units were viable the boiler manufacturers would be incorporating them into their boilers to increase efficiency. on a similar topic I remember when the new gas fired station at Cleethorpes was being commissioned… big song and dance about how much heat they could recover from the chimney gasses …. After weeks of problems they realised the exhaust gasses were too cold to go up the chimney and kept falling back chocking the combustion chambers

I can see what they are trying to do and their way of thinking but that’s a shockingly bad bodge job. Yes it looks neat from ground level and yes it’s ventilated but the chimney needs capping properly

Ironmongerydirect and look at drawer slides

Wow! Centreparcs going the extra mile to make you feel at home

Oh yes, when I bought this place (re wired a few years before) separate upstairs and downstairs rings .. great! Pity the ends were swapped over so the ends of both rings went into separate fuses … took some working out.

Also known as a generator power cut adapter

“Plans” or an artists impression? If they are plans and it says block paving then demand it, be aware that quick/poorly laid block paving will look terrible very quickly.

Does the contract say block paved or just paved? If it says paved then tarmac or concrete is within the definition

Definitely PVA, I prefer Titebond but that just because of drying time. Fibrous nature of MDF requires glue rubbing into the end ‘grain’ and coating both surfaces before bringing together. Biscuits or dowels if joints are likely to be stressed

Knock down and start again, it will be done in half the time, half the hassle, half the problems and probably cheaper than extending what you have. had the present extension been matched brick or stone then possibly using the existing makes more sense, but in your case no.

You can lay bricks or pavers over concrete but weeds will still grow in the gaps if they are not filled correctly, most people just brush sand but this leaves gaps for dirt, water and seeds to get in. Very dry fine sand (kiln dried) and a wacker plate ensure the gaps are full and tightly packed

Agree with @Conor the whole section looks pretty poor so you mayas well do it right, I would also be replacing the next section as a minimum, guessing the hole is from a pick.

How did you discover the reverse fall? CCTV? Unless you have already done so check the available fall to next inspection point or manhole (should it be personhole now?)

Welded Sarnafil is amazingly strong and durable, we erected a lot of the permanent tent structures that were done with Sarna membrane.

Maybe we should have a section for ‘You have seen mine, now show me yours’ 😉

Stick some masking tape or tippex etc on your bubble, find a pretty level or plumb surface, put level on surface and mark edges of bubble, spin 180 degrees and mark again, difference between your two sets of marks is true and you have more accurate lines. The bubble size changes with temp, hence lines usually being too far apart in our climate

Ah yes, so folding, not bifold .. bifold has 3 leaves and 3 hinge points because the first hinge point isn’t counted as it’s just a door. so folding doors, no track needed, just need the catch/es where the V closes not at the meeting point of the two doors.