markc

10mm discs are horrendous to use, much easier to use a standard (much lower cost) disc and do a few passes. Easy to make deeper by scraping a chisel or similar in the groove, if the old mortar doesn’t crumble and come out easily it doesn’t need replacing and better left holding the bricks

+1 on the above, I love my cordless tools but angle grinder just doesn’t have the humff or battery life for anything other than little quick jobs, plus battery grinders stop fast and heavy discs can (do) spin themselves off and disappear into the sunset at the most inconvenient times

Correct

I would say the water is coming in under the wall due to the outside ground level. If it’s on the neighbours side and you can’t dig and install a drain then you are looking at tanking or drainage membrane on your walls and floor to take the water away.

40mm screws won’t be long enough, you want 40mm min into the plug (I usually work on going through 10mm so 50mm in the plug plus depth of plasterboard etc (assuming plug is fully in the block behind) plus bracket thickness

No need for packing full length of frame, only needed at the fixing points and full length pack makes foaming difficult and air tightness almost impossible.

If no DPM between hardcore and slab then no need for a sand blinding layer

Good morning and welcome

Sharp putty knife or wallpaper scraper and it will peel off as fast as you can crawl

Hi Simon, yes I would knock the render off and allow the wall to dry out

If water is getting behind the bit of render I would knock it off, but I think the damp is more to do with water lashing off the path or joint between wall and path. What height is the floor inside compared with the air brick?

Wood screws into plugs or in this case you could use concrete/thunderbolt screws but in breeze I prefer to plug and screw with the plug fully in the block

8x40 means it’s 8mm drill and plug is 40mm long. screws will be 5mm and length depends on what the wall build up is. If dot and dab plasterboard then plug and screw need burying into the block or brick behind. More info on wall build up will help

The garden drop is a real advantage for you to create a whole new lower ground space. 10ft drop means you can get drainage in without sump pumps etc.

Morning squire, the tanking stuff leaves a good tacky surface, very like PVA bonding. Tile adhesive grabs hold well so no reason plaster won’t.

Hi and welcome

Agree with @ETC you will not be able to get back to this outer/cavity wall so it needs to be bullet proof, doesn’t need to be pretty as no one will see it, if timber frame how would you flash the bottom? Likelihood of any water in the cavity tracking back under the timber sole plate.

Assuming the relationship has gone past mediation, how about building upto the wall but not onto it. Treat it like a cavity, drainage channel at the bottom, compressible insulation etc. between the two walls to prevent debris etc. getting in. Your neighbour could complain saying you have stopped them accessing their wall but they built to the boundary. Yes everyone wants to build as big as possible but building upto a boundary rarely ends well.

@Big Jimbo ‘s ‘Be Nice To Your Neigbour’ is a very important message. So many projects start with arguments and confrontations and it goes down hill from there. Involve your neigbour, confirm the boundary and as above, make sure you stay on your side, your Archi or SE or BCO can all disappear and leave you sorting a mess out. plus your builders will need access on their land, stuff will fall into their garden, something will get damaged, dust will be annoying etc etc. get the neighbours on your side and keep them there.

Alexa is a hormonal b1tch .. or at least the ones I have are

Eek, yes it’s a shallow roof. What overlap do you have? Wind blown water could be a bigger problem going up the roof than jumping the poor jointing

That’s shabby! As a new roof to get the first course wrong isn’t a good sign. Roof also looks to be a very low pitch unless the pic is deceiving

Assuming it was laid correctly (mat overlapped and not butted as I have seen) then you have to look at local damage .. ladders used on the roof or impact damage possibly. Appears too localised for condensation.

Speak to the other owners to get a feel for what if anything is going on. old mining village near be, one row of terrace began to lean more than the others (think it was 6 houses in a terrace) and the whole terrace had to be pulled down, the other terraces still lean but are not getting any worse.

They are EUR pallets, often called Euro or EPAL.