markc

Am I missing something here? If the outside ground is lower than the underside of the beams, how can they be submerged? That would mean the water inside is higher than the ground outside so cannot be ground water

Resin based but tends not to be flexible so any movement could/would break a seal

That is better than the one I got which had a tiny lip and never sealed properly. It needs bedding into flexible adhesive and then a seal strip (tanking joint tape etc) applying over the lip and onto the base material to make a fully waterproof seal. You can then tile of screed upto the slot and water cannot get under the edge of the unit if it does get under the finished surface

Can you post a pic of the unit … I have a feeling I once bought a similar one and had no end of problems withit

Good morning squire, yes it just needs the pull switch replacing, bit fiddly with shower cable as it is quite thick and stiff to get into terminals etc. but a pretty quick easy job

@jon-lee are you looking at the cut in order to build a retaining wall or the angle of back batter above a retaining wall?

Very difficult to give an estimate without knowing where it is? What the access is like? Height etc.

Yes, that’s what I would try, I don’t think it’s air being pulled in but just turbulence noise as the washing machine dumps water and air into the trap

Not ideal but if you put the T in after the trap you shouldn’t get any back noise, odours won’t get back through the washing machine so no problem there

I recently took apart a “solid oak” sideboard from a well know source and it was disgustingly poorly put together. Glued joints knocked apart easily because the dowels were too small and the rest was held together with staples

Agree with @Mattg4321 very few people consider the asbestos that was thrown into the atmosphere from train, truck and car brakes and the poor mechanics who blew the dust out with compressed air. The asbestos used to lag boilers and pipework looked rather like rock wool with long fibres and it is these that lodge in the lungs, not the dust like particulate material.

Agree with @saveasteading and @Brickie from BS (British Standards, not Bull Sh@t) frogs go up

For wide liners I would always use ply for dimensional stability

You don’t know what the foundations are like and then you need to put in wall ties so probably quicker, cheaper and easier to knock down and start again. if you really don’t want to knock it down then an inner stud wall and insulation

Maybe I’m missing something but can’t see why a few degrees of roof pitch would affect anything in this case

Hi and welcome, this site is packed full of information and suggestions. Try a search of past threads for answers to many common questions

Yes I know it’s the filter size, my point was why That particular size? Is it a natural phenomenon for say size of grains of sand?

As above, so much easier to make and fit doors properly.

Why 425 microns? Who came up with 1/60 inch as a measure

You are looking at a turn-key build, nothing new but usually the most expensive way as you don’t do anything apart from say what you want. loads of info on here by searching old threads

Or raise on glass clamps to make cleaning easier.

You also need to be sure that the new floors aren't going to move; movement in a floor with UFCH pipes embedded in it could eventually be very problematic. this is a very good point and one overlooked too often with renovations and building changes. a guy who works for us recently asked me to take a look at his parents new conservatory that is sinking away from the bungalow. It’s not! The conservatory builder has seen the poor ground and slope so dug very deep footings onto solid ground but the 50’s bungalow is sitting on top of the clay and moves with it, so it’s the bungalow moving and the conservatory staying still.

Maybe they are working from home! On a serious note it’s probably not you, most tradies have had it too good and gotten used to picking and choosing what jobs they work on.

Looking from a different angle, how committed are you to this potential build? If planning is to be granted but delayed by 3 or 6 months what would be your plan? assuming you get planning pretty quickly do you intend living on the site or moving into rented? if you don’t get planning will you still go through with the house sale or drop the buyer?

Would the box need to lead directly outside or is the reasoning that 90 mins should be sufficient to get the fire out?