markc

Good morning, 18mm ply and a backer will slow heat transfer so you can’t expect fast warm up but you are not losing heat to ground and you have a good heat source. I’ve seen copper pipes laid just under the floor to heat upstairs bathrooms and while not energy saving or efficient it does work. I live in a decent sized old railway property with solid walls and forget air tightness so I have a big boiler and live with some inefficiency, next one will be built from scratch and will be different but for now the little bit of water heat is ok. just seen Nicks reply while writing this and there you have it from someone with much more experience than me.

Probably skew nailed or screwed to the mullions, ideally would be on noggins but the PB or backer boards will hold even if theses boards are just used as load spreaders

So one door would be 300+300 in V or when you say 2+2 are you saying the door will be 4x300 in a W arrangement

Before fitting PRV or expansion vessel, fit the new tails (without kinks) and then hold onto the tail (this is going to go wrong) while the dishwasher or washing machine is filling, if the tail jumps then we are on the right lines.

Yes quite possibly

Don’t put the last clips in and/or clean out some of the adhesive to allow the clips to move or be installed at the next session

High water pressure? Or water hammer? Is this straight from income or after a pressure relief valve?

Very odd, any chance it/they have been rubbing on something or each other? Seen loads degrade but for the braid to go like that looks like mechanical damage or rats, but they rarely chew stainless

Really low spots can be filled with concrete, use sharp sand and pea gravel, or just sand/cement screed. How accurate you need to be depends on the finish going down, if it’s tiles I once did a floor where the concrete was like a ploughed field, cost extra in adhesive but not a problem … just have to just long levels or rails to get the tiles level

A good galvanised stake will last 20+ years unless the ground is very acidic, but concrete will always outlast a stake. Also stakes can work loose and start to lean … similar with insufficient concrete. Concrete will be lowest cost

As it’s on the first floor and any lost heat going down would still be within the envelope, why not just run pipework under the floor. I am curious what you mean by “renewable Heating system”?

Hmmm, why delete the OP?

I wouldn’t use OSB due to splinters as the surface wears and chips, front face of ply should have grain horizontal to reduce chance of splinters causing injury. 12mm ply is more than sufficient, I’ve seen commercial climbing walls build with 10mm on a 400mm grid frame. In real terms the loads on climbing walls is very low, especially in a child’s bedroom

I doubt you will get it looking acceptable, I ‘recovered’ a slate floor by scraping (with an old wide chisel) the top of the slate away. On those little tiles it would take a long time

Hi, yes I was meaning new blockwork or plaster. At that age both will be dry so there is water to expand and ‘blow’

As long as the plaster and blockwork isn’t green then 100mm should be more than enough. I’ve used breeze and concrete blocks as heat protection from fierce gas/air flames without problem so 100mm to a stove is nothing

If you are wanting a stone arch then as @ProDave says, if it is going to be painted then I would be cleaning away all the loose stuff, rough up to provide a key, shutter to required line and cast back with stone/step repair compound

Split in top pic looks like it’s been done by the sizing saw, bit of glue and a couple of pins will make it right. Other pics are all ok, spacers in centre makes no real difference. I’ve seen tidier items but also a lot worse.

I would try a sanding brush, the cylindrical type not cup shaped. Much less aggressive than flat sanding and easier to blend in

Good morning and welcome

Am I missing something here? If the outside ground is lower than the underside of the beams, how can they be submerged? That would mean the water inside is higher than the ground outside so cannot be ground water

Resin based but tends not to be flexible so any movement could/would break a seal

That is better than the one I got which had a tiny lip and never sealed properly. It needs bedding into flexible adhesive and then a seal strip (tanking joint tape etc) applying over the lip and onto the base material to make a fully waterproof seal. You can then tile of screed upto the slot and water cannot get under the edge of the unit if it does get under the finished surface

Can you post a pic of the unit … I have a feeling I once bought a similar one and had no end of problems withit

Good morning squire, yes it just needs the pull switch replacing, bit fiddly with shower cable as it is quite thick and stiff to get into terminals etc. but a pretty quick easy job