markc

As you have it and secure with concrete unless you need to keep it accessible but I can’t think of any reason why.

HV conductors in the road and all the necessary switchgear and cabling in ducts too. If only a short length is energised at a time so the car covers it, that’s a lot of switchgear to be constantly maintained. Then the car can only be directly over the conductor so swerving to miss other cars, dogs, cyclists etc. isn’t going to go too well.

Too many people on the planet full stop.

If the holes are at the top and your new holes are lower then no problem, or trim then to the required length so they lay with the others without kicking up

Don’t even think about coatings if you want it to look like wood. Sand blast is messy but works well, ice blasting is pretty mess free as only the removed paint/varnish is left but it’s going to take a lot longer. If the timber is pretty flat and hole free then the spinning (in a drill or grinder) needle gun wheels (stiff wires that hinge on pins around a disk) work well but are evil things better left to specialists.

Can you get a pic showing the roof?

Looks like the roof is sliding rather than a wall problem. Filling won’t achieve anything, needs slates removing to sort the loose or broken battens

That’s a big heavy stack, what is supporting it at the moment?

If you can get across to the walls then yes, but often done by spreading the load across several ceiling joist (too often done with only a thin board if anything). A well supported stack remaining acts like a strong-back for the gable. Then remove the bricks going through roof line and finish to suit existing

If they mentioned lintels then they are looking at removing the top bit of stack and replacing the roof over but leaving the remainder in the loft. removing chimney breasts, especially on a gable end can cause a lot of problems because a chimney adds a lot of stiffness and bracing into a gable wall.

Not easy to say without knowing the structure and how it’s constructed but assuming it’s basically a timber shed it’s likely the roof weighs nothing so no problem with spreading/transferring loads above the door (unless it’s a very wide sliding door)

Doesn’t need anything heavy duty then, main thing with glass is stopping the shelf flipping over so support needs to come out full depth of the shelf (unless you are drilling the glass and fixing down at the rear).

Firstly need to look at the suspended timber floor … does it flex / bounce? If so then your tiles are going to crack and/or pick up on the corners. assuming everything is solid you then need to get everything pretty level, especially at the floor change locations. Thin screed/levelling compound over a timber floor is going to break up so that’s out, really looking at plywood to bring levels up. then probably a decoupling mat over the entire area - others on here with much more tiling experience can/will be better able to comment on this.

You have plasterboard on the outside?

Welcome and well done, looks great

+1 on Bigdug, decent racking at a pretty good price. And nice man cave

You don’t need to underpin if you are not going below the underside of the existing founds.

One I’ve just made and fitted, ignore the wires hanging around the motor and the old/existing gate immediately behind as it’s work in progress. Fabricated steel frame, galvanised and boards are composite T&G cladding.

Wall hung frames put most of the load into the floor, keeping a low pan and high frame attachment points onto the wall also reduces the lateral load imposed. On your wall, if you sit down heavily you may/will see some wall deflection but if is doable. Add a couple of stiff timbers top to bottom where the mountings are and the wall will be fine

Showering, cooking or just being in a property (especially in warm weather) will raise humidity. Ditch the humidity sensors

Either will be fine, you don’t need a hearth to ‘stick’ anyway so it’s just a bedding layer

Couple of problems spring to mind, as the water will go between the decking boards you will need a drain underneath and need everything under the decking (and part way up the walls to above decking height at least) to be fully sealed/tanked. decking boards are not easy to keep clean and soap/skin/shower crud may be a pain

I’m thinking it’s a photoshop

Not ideal as “solids” could end up going back into the neck of the shower waste and cause a plug. Would definitely be better higher up before the bend

There are many many tradies specialising in just one or two of the trades you mention and after a lifetime they still don’t know everything. Specialist books will give you in-depth info but to familiarise yourself with even a small amount of info on all aspects of building then YouTube can be very helpful.