markc

I’m not a plasterer but I would push adhesive under the cut edges, and ensure seal top and bottom and around boxes etc when putting the replacement dot and dab strip back in

Forget trying to get rods or services behind existing, so much easier and faster to cut strips of board out and make good after

My daughter and son in law ended up with a pylon very close to their house, almost immediately he started with strange fits and black outs, very scary to see. One day he collapsed taken to hospital and no fits or seizures but odd brain activity so stopped him driving etc. fallout with neighbours lead to moving a few miles away, since moving he hasn’t had a single “glitch” as we called them. Daughter and kids were completely unaffected, just Lee for some reason.

No one in their right mind would drill up through the frame and through a cavity tray.

Can’t see anything wrong with venting to roof, supply would need careful location to avoid pulling in any chimney emissions or smellies from top of soil pipes etc.

CH systems collect sludge in bottom of rads and valves etc. open up all valves fully and flush system till water runs clear .. during this go around knocking bottom of rads with your fist or rubber mallet etc. to dislodge the sludge. You will be amazed how much comes out and the improvement it makes. While system is empty, change any valves that are suspect.

Hi and welcome, no such thing as a stupid question. Loads of info available on here searching past threads, failing that, ask away

Best practice - no no top fixings (top hung rollers etc do require fixing to the support), definitely not through the frame, use straps to take fixing back to into the inner leaf away from cavity and any moisture. Don’t drill into lintels! If you go straight through a stone or concrete lintel then you can pierce the cavity tray and drilling into a steel (catnic style) folded lintel, these do collect condensation and you have given it a way out

Also, screwing upwards through a window frame is poor workmanship especially into a lintel.

I recently dug out a cellar floor and lined with membrane as damp was sealing in through the walls. Months before I dug a hole in the floor adjacent to a damp outside wall and monitored what happened during and after heavy rain - hole remained dry so I didn’t need a sump and pump etc. (storage space only). your floor/soil looks very wet so a drain and pump system is the way forward

2 hour job, need to get materials, sort tools etc. needed, ladders? Visit to look/quote, probably not get the job so say £500

That’s either a very worn pin or the pin has moved and come out of the boss (hole). Excavators take some hammer so pins do wear and holes elongate, link rods and bars are easy to change, pins are pretty low cost but stretched, oval holes in boom or arms are an expensive repair if needed

Hi and welcome, looks like an interesting project

If you put a sump and pump in, where will you pump it to?

If you can get a good colour match to the frame I would go with the anthracite, white against a different white can look horrible

Sounds like water was rising in the bore hole pushing air out at the top, this would cause bubbles if the area was wet. Nothing to worry about but water entering a well quickly does stir up sediment that can block filters prematurely

Good range of colours but you can’t match and they don’t (usually) end up the same colour/shade as the filament roll.

A driven pile does not need concrete in it (there are exceptions but very unlikely in your application). Pouring concrete into water filled trenches isn’t good practice but not that detrimental and if the trenches are just mass fill, no rebar, no bolt boxes etc. then there is no specific reason to vibrate or poke

That’s would be classed as flat face, the seal should be on the end, not the thread chamfer

How big is this “orangery”? Seems an excessive amount of work and overkill. Taking workmanship aside, what was the spec for the foundation? Is it connected to the house or effectively free standing?

Packing out behind hangers is not acceptable. Timber in the web should have been packed out or doubled to bring the face out flush with the flange or to meet the end of the posi if needed.

The joint will be stronger than the timber, look at any trussed rafter, glulam beam or other structural timber and you will see the joints. In the mill knots are cut out leaving timber lengths from 500mm (ish) that are then jointed and run together to make a continuous piece that is then cut to the pack lengths for shipping

Sounds like you need to go for diamond core (or solid for small diameters) bits. Use a piece of ply or timber with a hole to start the diamond bit (they don’t have points or centres) and once started you can keep dipping the bit in water every 10-15 seconds to keep it cool, once you break the hard surface it’s much easier and faster cutting

Well that’s just made me vegetarian

You’ve got me wanting one now .. that’s the ham, not a cool room