markc

How big is this “orangery”? Seems an excessive amount of work and overkill. Taking workmanship aside, what was the spec for the foundation? Is it connected to the house or effectively free standing?

Packing out behind hangers is not acceptable. Timber in the web should have been packed out or doubled to bring the face out flush with the flange or to meet the end of the posi if needed.

The joint will be stronger than the timber, look at any trussed rafter, glulam beam or other structural timber and you will see the joints. In the mill knots are cut out leaving timber lengths from 500mm (ish) that are then jointed and run together to make a continuous piece that is then cut to the pack lengths for shipping

Sounds like you need to go for diamond core (or solid for small diameters) bits. Use a piece of ply or timber with a hole to start the diamond bit (they don’t have points or centres) and once started you can keep dipping the bit in water every 10-15 seconds to keep it cool, once you break the hard surface it’s much easier and faster cutting

Well that’s just made me vegetarian

You’ve got me wanting one now .. that’s the ham, not a cool room

Hot dipped zinc coating is better for weather protection but they can be sharp, a bit rough looking. BZP is bright zinc plated and done by electrolysis so the coating is thinner and more even (and usually shiny) but not as hard wearing.

Looks like it overheated and melted the brazed joint. Spear point drills need to be kept cool either with water or compressed air (water is far better) and run slowly.

I would say that’s a drain yes

Hi, some people cut them, others leave then whole and have tapered gaps. What they sit on depends wether you will be running over them or not. But as you mention flower beds then a bit of concrete underneath and haunches at the back to prevent spreading .. again all very easy to see on YouTube

Agree with @Mr Punter , wrong colour and look for asbestos. Good respirator and Google’s anyway and disposable coveralls to minimise inhaled and itch

The ones with rounded edges are tumbled and a quick look on YouTube for laying pavers will show you how to do it, much easier than trying to explain

Core bits, especially lager diameter ones really need a water supply to flush away the debris otherwise it collects at the face and puts a lot of strain on the motor, pulling out to clear the cutting dross every few mm helps if doing it dry. I have done lots of diamond drilling but dont recognise the mount on your new drill/motor, looks like it is missing a chuck

The light up tester is working correctly near the plastic panel because there are live components behind there. Is the shock from the metal parts or from the door? If it’s the door then mostly likely a static build up as opposed to an electrical problem. If it is the metal parts then possibly an electrical issue and possibly due to a loose or broken earth due to vibration, replace or even add another earth “bond” connecting the offending panel to the other earthed areas/conductor.

Hi and welcome

Unfortunately small genies are a nightmare to spec. We have a lot of machines with 2.2kw single phase motors that will start and run happily on a 13amp plug. We have a old heavy Haverhill 5kva generator that has no problem at all running these machines but a new 10kva won’t because the voltage drop on start up causes our machine to shut down.

Brush out any loose soil and then ram the semi dry mortar in.

If the tree is suffering from ash die back i believe it has to be left on site or burned on site or can be transported but only by authorised transport and disposal contractors.

Good morning and welcome, loads of info available with a search of previous threads, failing that ask away.

Looking good the retaining walls will be rendered so exterior paint as soon as they look dry, couple of damp patches visible on the longer wall. Sand/cement doesn’t breath anyway so paint spec directions should be followed as some paints should only be applied in minimum temps and above dew point etc. whereas others are tolerant of cold temps and damp conditions. interior really needs to be left until windows are in and you can see the plaster is a uniform colour

In a king post truss the post is in compression, keeping the tie (bottom cord) and ridge from coming together. This is why it is very important to assess a king (or queen) post truss before loading the tie as the post could well be in loose tenons top and bottom. Sometimes the tenons are pegged but that was just to prevent it coming apart while being lifted

@Jimbo37 we really need more detail of what it is you are or have built in order to give an informed answer. Masonry? … brick? Block? Concrete block? Stone? you say plastering but then ask about inside too … you are having external plastered walls? Sheltered? Or is it render and not actually plaster? a few pics would help

Removing more from the bottom is going to give you a top heavy stack rotating around the ridge line. Stick to a lintel at loft floor level if you are keeping the stack

Haven’t looked at the tutorial but if you need this type of bearing to stay solid/aligned then you use two back to back so the rod prevents “self aligning”