markc

The adjoining cavity would just benefit from you blowing beads in to fill their voids, you can’t separate so they just blow more beads in to fill any voids, not ideal but needs must.

The additional mass of some doubling is almost irrelevant compared to anticipated loads on a stair. if anything, beef up the stringer connections top and bottom

Damp further up is probably condensation related, damp at the bottom often needs the wet soggy insulation removing. Took a couple of us a day to clear out a 3 bed semi, 6 or 7 places we took out 4 bricks to allow access for a vacuum hose and also removed internal window sills etc to get in that way. The stuff we removed was horrible (luckily we hired an industrial vac) wet and it stunk

I would go for blown bead eps, interesting to see what others would opt for

The dreaded ‘sponge’ insulation so many got suckered into. Get it removed and replaced.

Containers need to be converted well or it will be miserable. Hot or cold and wet through condensation. Buy a used site office, if you can’t build something decent

I’m not a plasterer but I would push adhesive under the cut edges, and ensure seal top and bottom and around boxes etc when putting the replacement dot and dab strip back in

Forget trying to get rods or services behind existing, so much easier and faster to cut strips of board out and make good after

My daughter and son in law ended up with a pylon very close to their house, almost immediately he started with strange fits and black outs, very scary to see. One day he collapsed taken to hospital and no fits or seizures but odd brain activity so stopped him driving etc. fallout with neighbours lead to moving a few miles away, since moving he hasn’t had a single “glitch” as we called them. Daughter and kids were completely unaffected, just Lee for some reason.

No one in their right mind would drill up through the frame and through a cavity tray.

Can’t see anything wrong with venting to roof, supply would need careful location to avoid pulling in any chimney emissions or smellies from top of soil pipes etc.

CH systems collect sludge in bottom of rads and valves etc. open up all valves fully and flush system till water runs clear .. during this go around knocking bottom of rads with your fist or rubber mallet etc. to dislodge the sludge. You will be amazed how much comes out and the improvement it makes. While system is empty, change any valves that are suspect.

Hi and welcome, no such thing as a stupid question. Loads of info available on here searching past threads, failing that, ask away

Best practice - no no top fixings (top hung rollers etc do require fixing to the support), definitely not through the frame, use straps to take fixing back to into the inner leaf away from cavity and any moisture. Don’t drill into lintels! If you go straight through a stone or concrete lintel then you can pierce the cavity tray and drilling into a steel (catnic style) folded lintel, these do collect condensation and you have given it a way out

Also, screwing upwards through a window frame is poor workmanship especially into a lintel.

I recently dug out a cellar floor and lined with membrane as damp was sealing in through the walls. Months before I dug a hole in the floor adjacent to a damp outside wall and monitored what happened during and after heavy rain - hole remained dry so I didn’t need a sump and pump etc. (storage space only). your floor/soil looks very wet so a drain and pump system is the way forward

2 hour job, need to get materials, sort tools etc. needed, ladders? Visit to look/quote, probably not get the job so say £500

That’s either a very worn pin or the pin has moved and come out of the boss (hole). Excavators take some hammer so pins do wear and holes elongate, link rods and bars are easy to change, pins are pretty low cost but stretched, oval holes in boom or arms are an expensive repair if needed

Hi and welcome, looks like an interesting project

If you put a sump and pump in, where will you pump it to?

If you can get a good colour match to the frame I would go with the anthracite, white against a different white can look horrible

Sounds like water was rising in the bore hole pushing air out at the top, this would cause bubbles if the area was wet. Nothing to worry about but water entering a well quickly does stir up sediment that can block filters prematurely

Good range of colours but you can’t match and they don’t (usually) end up the same colour/shade as the filament roll.

A driven pile does not need concrete in it (there are exceptions but very unlikely in your application). Pouring concrete into water filled trenches isn’t good practice but not that detrimental and if the trenches are just mass fill, no rebar, no bolt boxes etc. then there is no specific reason to vibrate or poke

That’s would be classed as flat face, the seal should be on the end, not the thread chamfer