-
Posts
3754 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
22
Everything posted by markc
-
Yes, sort of draw a line around the outside of the holes required giving 10mm or so wiggle room. Might need to be closer at the mounting holes dependant on the pan design
-
rotten window frame - best product for rot?
markc replied to TheMitchells's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
If a rotten window frame is holding a lintel up then you have serious problems. Regarding the rot, @ToughButterCup has covered it. Bit of localised rot in a corner or cill can be cut out and repaired but when it’s widespread there is only aesthetic bandaids, not a cure -
the man who built his London house from DIY tutorials
markc replied to joe90's topic in Surveyors & Architects
I’m waiting for someone to say it ……….. 🫢 -
That’s called over thinking and engineering in a problem
-
First wall hung pan I went for cutting the holes accurately, now I just cut out an area to encompass all the holes just making sure the pan will cover it.
-
Hi, for the 68 I would use a 6mm ish drill all the way round cut slice across the centre with the disk and then nibble out. larger hole you can score around with the disk, slice centre and then break/nibble out.
-
What material are you going through? And the sizes you want will not be in one kit. ah, just noticed the tile bit. 25mm is no problem for a cheapie diamond cutter, the larger sizes you are better off chain drilling and nibbling or diamond disk on angle grinder for the 120mm diameter
-
Going through the ply means you have the max pull out possible (short of a washer and nut behind). TV’s are not heavy and they are slim so majority of the load is straight downward putting the screws in shear rather than tension. Say 4x 5mm screws will hold a very big tv, a couple extra at the top is belt and braces. if you need piece of mind, stick a piece of ply behind the location of the fixings as a doubler … not needed unless you intend doing pull ups on the tv bracket.
-
Underfloor Heating ground and first floor and ASHP advice
markc replied to Gaz Bancroft's topic in Underfloor Heating
Good morning and welcome, if the house is airtight you won’t need heating upstairs .. maybe a towel rail or two. wet UFH downstairs is the way to go as long as you get the insulation and air tightness right. Are you looking at taking out the existing floors and putting in sufficient insulation to not loose heat through the floor? just re read and I now think this is a new build? Not a renovation … much easier -
Really need more detail when you say leaking - is it badly fitted seals? Twisted frames causing seals to be ineffective? Or water getting in from inside cavity etc.
-
B I N will cover anything!
-
That seems an excessive amount of water for rain during a roof repair, some staining on the upstairs ceiling yes but to flood down another floor as well? What works were they doing and how long did it take? Maybe they broke a pipe during loft access and repaired it without your knowledge.
-
Cill not fill, doh! You bet me to it
-
At 6x6 put it down in one go
-
When looking for leaks, start at the top. Find the highest wet point. Many people say they have multiple leaks when it’s actually just one and the water or oil is creeping downwards anywhere it can. may just be an optical illusion but the fill appears to slope backwards towards the window, if it does this needs sorting out too. rotten timber sucks in moisture like a sponge so any rot around the brickwork or render needs replacing. good luck, full heigh bay windows can be a pain to find and cure leaks
-
Good morning and welcome, looks great, extended but keeping the character
-
Good morning, welcome and well done
-
Ties where you indicated are not doing anything, a hipped roof will be fine as long as the 4 corners cannot spread. You need a substantial and properly connected wall plate to tie the bottom of the 4 hip rafters in place.
-
A couple of Plasterboarding questions
markc replied to crispy_wafer's topic in Plastering & Rendering
Horizontal boarding leaves unsupported butt joints unless you add noggins along the joint line (although I did once see a stud wall with the stubs running horizontal … very odd). tapered edges are only there to get reinforced board to board joints without skimming the whole area. If you are skimming over then it makes no difference. -
Sounds like you just need to give it a bit of time now to see what happens, you have done all the right things to find any source (and there doesn’t appear to be any) if the area dries then nothing else to do, if not then there are other options
-
Good morning and welcome, we all learn by biting off more than we can chew, wondering why or even regretting even starting projects, then determination takes over and we learn to get on with it … have fun!
-
If not coming from outside, it could well be a water or gas pipe that has been plastered over.
-
First of all find out where the damp is coming from, what’s on the other side of the wall? Down pipe? Hole through wall? Missing mortar? Vegetation etc
-
Too many years practice and I still do it. Quadrant drives me insane when you roll it onto the other leg and cut it
-
Just over 45 required, I reckon you tipped the blade but cut from wrong side so while you set blade to say 46 your cut was from the 44 side. We have all done it.
