markc

Agreed, the long sweeping bend is great and allows you to move where you need it

Unless you specifically mentioned connection to sewer or treatment plant etc. then it wouldn’t have been included as this would be an unknown.

Highly unlikely, post a pic so we can see if there are any complications

If plastic then no problem moving them, the plastic will not rupture or split unless you fold it, if you need to bend or re bend the copper then it takes a bit more humpf and practice

No, your subbie will pay the vat and claim it back, the mark-up is for their time and trouble sourcing and paying for the materials. Much better for you to pay directly for materials and claim the vat yourself

Long term empty rate can be much higher than fully occupied, certainly is in Barnsley. Couple of years ago I bought the semi attached to my mums because she couldn’t face new neighbours after 50+ years (plus I couldn’t subject anyone to my mums cantankerous rants). Upshot is I now pay full council tax plus a long term empty premium of £579.44

@Tom yes I see now, the hammerite was to be the decorative, not protective finish. The staining through the emulsion is more likely to be oils from the hammerite rather than rust.

Hammerite on top of red oxide is pretty pointless and emulsion definitely won’t key to hammerite and will peel off. Scrape off whatever you can (you may find the hammerite comes off as a layer to make things really easy) rub down and rust and seal off with zinzer BIN or similar before the emulsion.

Don’t isolate rads during winter, turn the try’s down to a minimum but keep some circulation to prevent blockages. I’m not a plumber and others on here could say the opposite but on hydraulic systems we like to keep some flow.

Was it a quote or estimate? Really comes down to the wording of the document. Can you post a copy? Blank out any names and addresses etc.

Good morning and welcome, exciting times, good luck and have fun

Sounds like at the worst you need thicker underlay of flooring to make up the level if needed.

Scribe a strip of ply or hardboard to get the profile and use this to get your first panel

@Pocster … automated drones with guns 🤫

Loads of those circling people homes won’t be annoying at all … I predict a spate of air gun crusaders

It’s better to be under than over with screed, last thing you want is to be grinding off. What finish are you putting down? Have you checked for humps, bumps and high spots?

Measure twice or 3 times, cut once! if your walls etc are not square then you are looking at scribing, which is effectively using a block or stick of some kind run down the uneven surface to trace (scribe) a corresponding line onto the piece you need to cut .. take a look on YouTube etc. because it’s easier to see than describe.

Hello and welcome

Regardless of the heating source a sudden drop in measure tank temp would be correct. Temp sensor should be near the bottom in order to give a realistic reading, but if water is drawn off, cold enters at the bottom which is then picked up by the temp sensor, the upper part of tank will still be hot but the sensor sees a sudden drop

I haven’t looked back to see what problems you are having but the pointing looks to have been done where required rather than raking it out and repointing everywhere, bit untidy but looks sound

Good morning and welcome

In order to pull the steam downwards you need to move a lot of air. It’s similar to dust extraction, getting 30% (ish) of it is quite easy, getting upto 80% takes a big fan and power, to get the last 20% or so needs a very big extract rate and a very big fan and motor. if you are pulling all the steam from across a pan make sure you don’t have any loose kitchen roll, onion leaves or similar lying around or then will be next.

Ive never heard of the stuff, slatted panel could indicate blockboard. See if you can get a pic to post up here.

Your SE’s word is gospel as they are the ones taking the fall should anything go wrong, but for what it’s worth the stud wall will act as a purlin and take load but it could also act as a point of rotation if there isn’t one on the other side. In effect the roof could move to the right pulling up on the eaves closest to the stud wall. I think you should get something in writing before doing anything else.

Unless you leave the doors open you will be creating a large drive-in fridge, and efficiency will nose dive as the unit tries to extract heat from an ever decreasing air temp. plus I’m sure there will be regs stating the position requirements.