markc

My architect also wondered how the frame design accounts for the fact that it is actually screwed into the lintel (at least abusing to the installation instructions). Wouldn’t that suggest that any deflection transfers to the doorframe via the screws, regardless of how much of a gap there is between the lintel and the frame, or are the fixing points on some sort of sprung mechanism? Nothing wrong with top fixings being screwed through frame into lintel. The fixings will be a clearance in the frame and therefore allow the lintel to `bob` without loading the door frame.

Several ways to jack a structure, as above you are referring to acro props. The lifting part is the easiest, maintaining stability during the lift and taking into account high winds etc is the hard part. Definitely a spaecialist operation as a roof structure can act as a big sail once disconnected from the weight holding it down.

If the neighbours walls are well established and not cracked then its very unlikely they will do unless someone is negligent on your build. Excavate close to or under your neigbours house and there is a good chance it will fail. You have to se common sense and if something doesnt look or feel right then stop! take a step back and reassess the task.

+1 on the toughened and laminated. cant imagine it needing 17.5mm as we did loads of impact tests on the glass for railway stations and non of those were anywhere near 17mm thick

Is it porcelain? white or coloured plastic or stainless steel?

Looks pretty poor to me, the valley is going to be a nightmare. the missing corner would annoy me to death and the wavy battens are just poor workmanship/not caring

exactly

50mm screed on top of insulation will break up very quickly. Screed is not like concrete and even then 50mm on top of insulation is pretty week as a floor. Pillars on top of this are more likely to cause problems with the wall rather than support it.

Decent sand/cement screed is 1800kgs a cube, 75mm thick would be 135kgs/m

haha, German Engineering at its finest

@KTB just make sure it is a 16a socket on the generator, i am assuming it is but cant be 100% certain from here

@KTB thats a decent gennie, I would keep the red 3 phase plug and split your usage on the caravan. Bit of faffing but would get the best out of the generator and prevent lights diming or tv problems while using shower etc. a sparky will know what i mean. Then again as this is only temporary, just get a 16a 5 pin 3 phase plug and pick up one phase and neutral.

@Loz we had a controlled demolition to do, Asbestos cement roofing sheets, we were not allowed to pull the building over as this would shatter a lot of sheets at the same time so we were told to take them off by hand, smashing the bolts through with a hammer or breaking the sheets and sliding them down the roof to be put into a skip (covered). Take reasonable steps to minimise dust and inhalation but listen to the testing people, they know best and rarely go the scare mongering route

Caravan can be whatever you expect to run on electricity. If you have no electric heaters and only want to have lights, TV and boil a kettle occasionally then 16A is fine. Whats more important is the size of the generator KVA?

Unless it is a very small manufacturer who makes each truss individually, they should all be roughly the same (within 5mm) Trusses are designed by computer that also spits out the cutting list with all angles, They are assembled one at a time and then rolled or pressed, they are not assembled over a master.

Loads of old slated roofs done without trusses, two walls, possibly a ridge board but many without, a couple of purlins and rafters at 2 ft centres. 2x1 slate lathe on top of that and get nailing. the 600 or 400 centres are to do with the trusses themselves, not the lathes. If you get the odd springy (or a knot in the middle) lath then it is supported by the slating hook or bit of timber while nails are knocked in.

In that case you can do it in a couple of stages, i dont know of a 35 to 22 fitting.

Same way, blower will always tend to blow through the open end. Failing that ... old industrial sparkies trick, catch a rat, tie string to its tail, push it into the duct. Please dont shoot the messenger, i love animals and rats.

good point, i missed that

So not looking for a heavy traffic, heavy wheel load drive. In that case I would cap with say 4 inches of concrete over the pipe, around 12 inches wide (you could use pre cast slabs laid loose in case you ever need to get back to the pipe) then the hardcore and topping.

Is it lead?

What will the drive surface be? If it’s concrete then no problem at all as the slab will bridge the pipe run and cause no problems. If the surface will be paved or shingle etc then put a thicker cap over the pipe and you will need less hardcore in that area.

good evening and welcome, good luck with the venture and you will find a lot of useful and otherwise difficult to find information on here. Search older threads first and failing that ask away

Typical response, i wouldn't have said anything to them and the fitters would have just got on and done it. Good chance the door will not be the right size and if you then mention it you will likely get a "10mm either way makes no difference"

You definitely need it, or you could fit a couple of plastic slide pads in the slot but they will leave marks on the door as it slides past them. Take the door out and do it properly