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IanR

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Everything posted by IanR

  1. Is it too late to get the Door frame over the EPS upstand, and aligned with the insulation? We used a 9.5mm thick GRP L Section (www.steponsafety.co.uk), sitting on top of the EPS upstand to support the door and window frames. Ours was put in before the slab pour, but they could be fitted after. This threshold is within a covered porch, so we went without the drain, but did tip the outside surface away from the opening by 1°.
  2. From main to house is 130m for me, and we've run that in 32mm and have good pressure. IIRC 32mm is as large as you can go before you need run some disinfection process (possibly with water samples sent off??) before the connection is permitted. That helped make my decision!
  3. We built a Kiosk for Power, Water and Comms, so is a bit bigger than you require. Similarly, we're around 100m up a track, and having the Kiosk on the edge of the Curtilage, kept us to around about the 100m limit for data and PoE back to the entrance at the start of the Track.
  4. Have you tried Advanced Foundation Technology, and their Groundshield products? My experience with them is they turned the Drawings and Structural calcs around very quickly. The EPS sheets and preformed sections come from Derbyshire I believe. They'll install all over the UK as well as "supply only". If you supply your own ground workers and just have Olof onsite for the Install and pour (incl. UFH), costs are very competitive.
  5. You're better off using a pre-insulated twin duct. I used Rehau Rauvitherm twin 32 dia pre-insulated. Plus a duct for power to ASHP and another for data/comms
  6. + ducts to outside tap positions, ASHP feed & return Power to outside/drive lighting
  7. IanR

    Windows

    I've just looked at the rendering of your house on your profile and your window sizing is similar to mine, large openings made up of smaller sashes. ie. I have a few 5m wide windows by either 2.1m high or 4.2m high, but they're built from five 2.1m x 1.0m sashes which costs a lot less than trying to make it in a single 2.1m x 5m sash. The pound has devalued since I bought mine, but that shouldn't have added more than 20% to the price. Have you gone with any integrated blinds on the Norrsken windows, I know that added a lot to the price. It was much cheaper to go with external blinds.
  8. ...and is that a SVP I see just a little further down the wall.
  9. IanR

    Windows

    I really liked the Norrsken product, and the company seemed pretty good too. But "Wowza", those prices are much more than I was quoted July 2015. Including fitting, you've been quoted £1,228/m2 for Norrsken and £1,911/m2 for Internorm. In July 2015 Norrsken quoted me just under £500/m2 (and then offered another 10% off when I called them to say I was going with Internorm) for 3G Alu-clad pine. For the same spec I got Internorm down to £440/m2, although I upped the spec in the end and paid just under £500/m2. In my favour, all my windows are made up of units that are neither particularly large or small so it was quite an efficient way of buying the glass.
  10. Follow the link from Jack: https://www.greenbuildingstore.co.uk/products/pro-clima-roflex-pipe-grommet/ Just a flat, square piece of 1mm or 2mm thick rubber with an appropriately sized hole in the middle.
  11. I went with the Roflex grommets that Jack linked to, plus some Airtightness tape: This image is from the outside, and my airtight layer is the outside sheathing board. The membrane then just overlaid this with a hole in in for the duct. You'd need to fix the grommet to the inside.
  12. When did you submit yours? I submitted mine back in September, but still not had mine reviewed. Keep calling and they say they have a huge backlog.
  13. The roof is the original cow-shed roof, we knocked through the clear GRP roof-lights and dropped the boom in through them. No ground-line needed. The roof was then stripped once the concrete had cured.
  14. Boom pump, had heck of a reach on it:
  15. It was almost 8 loads, so around 60m3 Quick service though, concrete was in by 11:30, just took the rest of the day to level and power-float.
  16. Here's mine during the pour. The DPM is over the bottom layer of EPS and up over the EPS upstand. If you pour directly into the ring beam then there is a risk of the liquid getting under the uncovered EPS and it floating "away", hence pouring on to the higher areas to weight it down and letting it gently flow into the ring beams. This is not an issue with self-compacting, it can happen with C35.
  17. It's possible they poured directly in to the ring beam before weighting down the top layers of EPS. They need to let it gently flow into the beams after first pouring on to the EPS in the 100mm thick areas. What did the Engineer specify, most are C35
  18. The As Built SAP has to be uploaded by an Accredited person, and my experience was that they wouldn't take someone elses As Designed SAP as a starting point to reduce the fee. From memory I paid £175 for the As Designed and then a further £35 for the update to As Built and the upload to register it.
  19. Touchwood Homes for the frame and Advanced Foundation Technology for the slab - I can thoroughly recommend both of them. TW and AFT work together on a lot of projects.
  20. Worth getting a quote from to see how they compare. For us they were the most expensive that quoted, and want a big figure up front to do the detail design. IIRC the quote is not fixed until the detail design is complete. Seemed to me to be a high quality build solution, although their "patented" foundation/floor seemed a bit over-complicated compared to an insulated slab. They also offer an option where they'll train you how to assemble their frame and then supply only.
  21. IanR

    Part Q

    For the benefit of future readers, "Internal Works" has finally been clarified within the Practical Planning Guidance from the Housing Ministry, under paragraph 105 (revised 22.02.2018). (https://www.gov.uk/guidance/when-is-permission-required#What-are-permitted-development-rights):
  22. Woken up to -4 this morning and clear skys. If that sun stays out for a few more hours then the heating won't be needed and I needn't have bothered with charging up the slab.
  23. Along with the cold snap that started last Friday, came some bright and sunny mornings, so we haven't needed to put the heating on. It was sunny all day Saturday and we had to "deploy" the blinds in the afternoon for some shading as the internal air temp jumped up. The house hasn't dropped below 21.5oC. Although with -5 forecast for tomorrow morning and a more cloud around today I stuck the UFH on for around 5 hours to make sure the entire slab is up to temperature (22.5oC ).
  24. I've never posted anything about mine in the Barn Conversion section as the stuff I've posted about hasn't been unique to a Barn Conversion and I can't think of much that would be. You're in the right place and I'm not aware of a more relevant forum. Welcome.
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