crispy_wafer

I'm not running my heatpump yet, but I guess you have to be flexible in your approach, you have to find what works for you in different scenario's. I've been reading the various threads and trying to take the conclusions and build up my own plan, because I just know this time next year I'll be joining in with the various ASHP threads as I try to find the right balance on my HP install. As users we will have to come to a compromise by trying to eek out every last drop of efficiency vs being comfortable, and if that means a couple of quid extra per day when it's baltic outside then so be it. Life's too short to be freezing in your own home.

yes, I can do, and will do this. Phone died, but boshing the hanger with a hammer encouraged the flanges back behind and against the timber stopping the creak. before the flange was tight on one side but a few mm out on the other.

Hi All, Been working in the bathroom upstairs and have discovered a creak in my floor. The floor build up is 22mm egger on 304*122mm pozi joists, glued and ring shank nailed. The creak is coming from either close to or right at the end of the joist where it sits into the hanger. The hanger sits onto a steel. I can access from below, and if I pull/push the joist with my hand from below I can make the joist creak on command! The bit of flooring above is fitted tight to the steel, every other bit of flooring the builder left about an inch gap. I'll pop up some photos tonight. But would love some help with this. Ta Marek

With our relatively small area of attic trusses of 4.8m * 3m between uprights. I glued and screwed 63mm*38mm inline, then again perpendicular before laying the boards.

as above, no requirement for a duct, but mine traverses 13m through the build under the B&B the duct would be useful if ever it needs to be changed. Probably not in my lifetime though!

might be the lighting.... or just the calibration on my monitor

We went through a foundation trench block with lintel over the top. I put 110 mm drainage pipe and pushed the mdpe through that, then shoved pipe insulation over the mdpe pipe all the way along to the bend where it comes into the build.

Amongst this weekends tasks I intend on battening out a block wall for a recessed consumer unit and some service routing. Should I frame the wall, like a stud wall with horizontal header and footer, or is it simply ok to install verticals every 400 top to bottom? Also, is it worth insulating the voids, whilst avoiding the cable drops to the CU? Construction is brick and block with a full filled cavity. Should I add strips of dpm to the backs of the timber and should I paint the blockwork with airtight paint (got some soudatight left over)? Thanks Marek

Mine is exactly the same... Short piece of flue that terminates above the register plate, so 6" pipe into a 9" pumice chimney. It's not ideal and yes soot does drop and build up on the register plate. I periodically drop the register plate to clear the soot because when burning the stove hard with wood, flames can lick up and catch the soot. Most of the time I burn smokeless Ovoids and there isnt much in the way of flames roaring up the chimney... My install was done and HETAS signed off, I only found this arrangement last year by accident too . Now I know a bit more about these things it appears that a clay pot adapter of sump adapter should have been fitted to gather and allow the soot to fall back into the stove, rather than building up on the register plate. If you are staying there, then budget accordingly and have the job done right, you know it makes sense! Do you really want to faff about with it for the rest of it's existence? Most installers will go for the flue liner because that's easy for them and rules out any chimney issues causing you and them grief and call backs. With mine, we've lived with it like this for 13 years and I'm out of there next year so will continue my observation and cleaning routine.

This thread was piquing my interest as I've some pipes to insulate too, then I remembered there were some snippets of info in this thread that I'd saved. and pipeinsulation.pdf (nhbc.co.uk)

Reckon everyone needs a track saw, they are an absolute gamechanger. I've got a Bosch one it's ace, Corded though, but I can deal with that. To think I procrastinated for so long before buying too. I keep scouring amazon warehouse for 'used. like new' tracks and stuff. Although I've got 2 1.4m tracks I could do with a dinky one to go with. First rule of self build should be - Allocate 2/3k to tool purchase, then you don't need to feel guilty!

Instinct suggests starting at the low rate finishing after. As @Conor suggests, the HP should have modulated down enough to be ticking over giving you better COP. Start it early and you have the initial ramp up and lower COP.

I'll just hang the pipes over the wall plate for now and clip the pipes into the chase. When I have the pre plaster insp, get the BI's take on it! The only progress it's likely to hold up is the positioning of the MF ceiling perimeter as I don't know what level I'll be setting it to. Whether to bring it down to cover the pipe, or leaving it at 242 ish.

If I remember rightly the roofers, joiner and builder came up with a 2* 4*2 arrangement. I suspect thought that notching isn't the greatest of the ideas I've had. To notch would be 15mm off the edge to allow a 15 and 10mm pipe to pass.

I suspect the answer is a no, but can I/am I allowed to notch the wall plate? reason I ask... I'm bringing some hep down from a roof void (attic trusses onto wallplate), over the wallplate into a shallow chase that I've taken out of the wall. Notching the wallplate would allow the pipes to sit a bit further into the chase which would then be hidden by the plasterboard ceiling and wall junction. Currently I'd need to notch the plasterboard to fit round the pipes. I'm accounting for about 10mm dabs. yay or nay? Thanks Marek

For those who may not have any other options available Starlink doing refurb stuff at 199 for the hardware + monthly subs at the minute.

Get the one with variable speed. I've got the other one and if i'd add anything to it, then it would be speed control. You can control speed with the trigger, but when you have to cut/grind, hold in position, holding a constant not full wack speed is bit of a challenge!

Currently like a cave dweller 🤣! Stove with backboiler. Will be a heatpump in the self build, supplemented by air 2 air and a dinky stove, just waiting for electrics to be sorted then I'll plumb it in. The overriding thought on ASHP's certainly round this forum is positive, just do your due diligence, bring the property up to spec if needed insulation wise, look at air tightness and sources of unwanted ventilation then you'll stand a fighting chance of having something that will run at lower temperatures and give you efficiencies that match up with the cost of gas. Be mindful though that it may not save you money!

maybe chain drill it instead. Multitool any edges. Be careful though. Reckon it would take me about a month to pluck up the courage!

Yeah probably a few years of life left in it before it’s due to be replaced, I’ve never had gas but by all accounts they don’t last like they used too! If you haven’t already got one, would you have room for a hot water cylinder?

What's your current heating system and motivation to change?

almost... straight out of the volumetric mixer truck

Aye, gas, water. Small, large, different materials with different jaws. But in this instance, it's boy wants toy!

Presuming it was a flow screed pour? If so the screed supplier would have records as to how much was poured.

Sadly for my wallet I didn't, but I now have a set of M jaws up to 35mm. Although I only have a big handful of pressing on my own project at the moment, it'll come in handy for when I go to mothers and fix a few jobs for her. I'm sure it'll keep me in pints and favours from colleagues at work too!