crispy_wafer

Awesome, he’s given me 3 deco sockets to look at with different coloured inserts, mrs is ok with them, and I like them, so looks like they’ll do nicely! Don’t need them just yet, so will chip away buying a few here and there.

That’s good to know, thank you.

Just reading the aquapanel data sheet and instructions, reads like it is quite a simple product to deal with and use!

Aah, my studs are about 400, so 20mm product would be fine I can lose a few mm. A couple of my stud walls now look like dogs dinners tbf, all because I built up my stud walls then decided (or discovered) things like concealed cisterns, or me deciding to turn a 100mm stud into a 150mm stud just to hide a soil pipe. Next time, I promise I shall have a proper plan!

My mate has put me onto scolmore sockets and switches, mainly due to the fact that I wanted a raised double lounge plate which Hager don’t do in the style I wanted. He rates them highly and is bringing me a couple of samples tonight to play with and show the foreman! Never heard of the manufacturer myself, but my pal who sells this stuff seems to rate them. Anyone else able to tell if me they are decent enough to use? Ta Marek

Another question I’ve got a small downstairs WC and shower room (2*1.4) it’s going to be tiled from floor to ceiling on all walls, walls are studwork. What’s the best product to use? Backer board or MR Plasterboard. Will likely use the same product on all walls to be consistent in my approach. If backer board, is there any specific brand that is better than others?

@James94 What did you do in the end with this?

With ours, 3 beds and two bathrooms upstairs. Electric Towel Rads in bathrooms, ducted air to air in bedrooms. Cooling as well as heating is a consideration for a good nights sleep!

Thanks, I discovered the neostat -e has switching capability to 16A which should be more than ample, so that's what I'll use. It's a bit of a compromise in that I'll have 1 for each room that requires, rather than a single point, but in the grand scheme of things it's not a bitter pill to swallow!

ok cool, Walls will be skimmed. Yes all walls have noggins at 1200 ish allowing for pb to be lifted slightly off floor, and corners too. Sounds like I'll be ok then, I was just concerned about the practicalities of the plasterer when skimming a taper flat when tight to floor, or tight into a corner... Really just trying to minimise wasteage and making best use of each board.

I've a few areas where I think it's sensible to board horizontally, being mindful of getting funny looks from a plasterer, 1) is it ok to have tapered edge boards horizontally, is it an issue with the tapered edge being close to the floor? 2) Likewise, when I board vertically is it ok to have tapered edges into an internal corner?

I'd be having a looksie at what VITCAS offer in terms of high temp plaster

38*63 (2*3) would be fine. What i used for this

Cor, You don't hang about do you! Pre plaster is my next inspection... BI keeps popping round to have a nose though, because taking too long, popping cards into the post-box, he's more impatient than the wife!

2.50 will get some half decent branded faceplates and you'll get price breaks too.

Our spark recommends Schneider, as above suspect the tradies stick to brands that cause them less grief and returns.

I picked up some heatmiser/grant stuff for the ASHP. Be nice if there was something similar but for electrics... So start with a time clock for multiple zones, into a control centre that fires an on or off signal to switch the electric to the device on or off... How all that works in practical terms, and even if possible - no idea. Surely, this has been done before, or is this a strict one radiator one control type of scenario - which means multiple faceplates.

Please could someone point me in the right direction. Upstairs bathroom and En suite will both have electric towel rails, and possibly yet to be decided UFH heating mats. I'm thinking about time scheduling on/off's and manual override for set time periods (15/30/60 etc minutes) with a single interface control. Apologies, this is all new to me, our old bungalow has none of this stuff in it, so what kind of products/manufacturers should I be looking at. Not bothered about app control or cloud, but if Google or Alexa is part of the feature set then it's not a problem! Many Thanks Marek

Think I'd try one of those rubber clay to plastic adapters and tighten up to see if it will deform to the oval shape. Might work, might not!

So, if not plasterboard then wires might be routed in capping which could give a narrow path for airflow.

Presuming those walls are dabbed plasterboard?

Thanks for simplifying it for me, that'll work a treat, honestly doing that didn't even cross my mind.

I was trying to get out of paying twice, but that advice (spelt correctly this time!) is sensible and logical. Floor to floor is 2750, so Howdens are out. quarter turn at the bottom is required to comply with regs and not to foul a doorway. Maybe just maybe a loft staircase might do the trick, or even a non compliant set will help. I'll hit TK and stairbox and see what the damage will be! Thanks Marek

I'm getting cheesed off clambering up and down ladders. The progress of the build is slow and we are no where near finished, Boarding and skimming is a little way off yet. I've got a staircase layout made up, so happy on that side of things, what I'm not sure about is materials and how to plan... We had this vision (like many) of a nice hardwood staircase, glass, or wrought iron look balustrading, but I don't think putting a HW staircase in now would be the best decision I ever made... It would get dinged and bashed up regardless of how careful we tried to be. Is it feasible to get the staircase in MDF then clad it later? A lot of places sell the staircase cladding kits, the risers and treads seem relatively easy to do, we might even end up carpeting, no plans been made that far ahead. What about the stringers, they'll be on show, can these be clad effectively, or is it worthwhile to get these in hardwood and just tape copious amounts of cardboard and bubble wrap to cover it. Can I just get the staircase in without the balustrading and add this as 2nd fix item later, would be useful if I could as I can lug awkward items upstairs. Ta Marek

The opposite and downside to purchasing, I hire and have to save up my jobs and try to tackle them in one hit. over the last year and a bit, I get a machine in probably once a quarter for a week, take time off work and then blast through (Drainage, Trenching, clearing out the drains...). Often at the mercy of weather and having to have materials on site. If I had one full time, I'd be able to tackle the odd job over a summers evening or a Sunday saving me time. Saving grace, a dropped track or a burst hose is their responsibility and I get a day back as a sorry for next hire time. And I can choose the right excavator for the task, I've had micro's up to 5t sized machines now. I'd love one tbh, but just cannot justify having the cash tied up. I do have an old kubota mini tractor and a 2t dumper though.