crispy_wafer

You can half a twix for that effort!

Question timed to perfection, so big thanks for asking. Will be on job soon too!

As I was clipping the pipe up anyway, I opted for blue/red pipe clips.

Have you got enough elevation in the ground levels for the drainage fall to go round the outside of the build, or will you need to dig a really deep hole for the treatment plant invert?

Nice elegant solution! So one of these from your link. to one of these? (Grohe, others are available too!)

Just did a web search for the timber profile that @Russell griffiths posted as I love that. Just enough of a mix between modern and traditional. AGS Skirting boards - AGS Systems | flush doors and skirting boards (ags-systems.info), theres a few how to youtube construction videos aswell which may be useful.

Nope, but will add them to my list for consideration when the time comes.

Whoever had this place before me has buried various flavours of broken up asbestos looking sheet material, my only problem with this is just they didn't bury it deep enough as I keep coming across it whenever I get a digger. Not really arsed about it, I just dig a deeper hole out of the way, collect it up with the tractor and push it in.

in the ground. A full load 8m2. Reckon I could of used another cube just to tidy it off but I emptied the wagon and It's not going anywhere. However, neither am I. My body is broken! 32mm MDPE pipe inside 110mm waste pipe as a duct. Got some 2" twinwall but decided on using waste pipe, so If go digging again one day, the waste pipe will put up more of a fight than black twinwall.

Sol weld should do a decent job to be fair with the SP124, it's not like you need to mark angles and set, clean up the pipe, use some of that stuff to prep the pipe(sorry cant think, my brain's frazzled! ) before the sol weld, then a good dollop of sol weld, give it a good twist back and forth (apologies, you've probably done this all before). I'd probably look to smear up the inside with some goo whether it needed or not, but that's me going OTT! On a tangent, I've got an SP124 mated to a stub on my treatment plant inlet. Rewatec have goo'd up the inside of this!

agree with @Dave Jones pull it out if you can. I'd replace with a piece with a socket on the end. However, since it's screeded and taped up it probably won't want to come out without a fight, you could core round the pipe and remove some screed, or chip away (probably safer) to expose a bit more pipe, use a coupler and if you are concerned about the seal, plenty of CT1 round the inside?

Yep you’re right, cover now back on had to take it off otherwise the lifting strap fouled on it.

Today, I will cut a channel through the field to lay 70m of 32mm mdpe in ducting. Made the decision that we'll fill the channel and surround the ducting with 2-3ft of 2" clean stone to act as a drain, we've done this at the back of the house and round the other side of the riding school and it works well to drain the surface water. You can see on the photos that we are blue/grey clay under the top 3ft or so of sandy/gravel and is really slow draining after prolonged wetness!

Deep enough I think! Ready for lifting at this point I'm thinking Hole too big! Plenty of Room for concrete, concrete for the base is coming Tuesday, about 2m3 I calculated, base will be about 300mm thick as I miscalculated the dig depth a little 🤔.

Hobbit checking out the hole Getting there That'll do for the day Shape is OK, just needs about 150mm off the bottom tomorrow, then I reckon we should be good for a trial fitting, not perfect, but acceptable I think considering I can only operate the machine from one side of the hole. Pleasantly surprised by the lack of ground water. Managed to rescue an amazing array of bottles, bricks, bits of car and other rubbish at various depths of the dig.

Next task, Remove rose bush and some flowering weed from treatment plant's new home A few canes to mark out the excavation... Fired up the quattro!! Mrs B on the machine fettling the throttle as it likes to cough/splutter and stall on occasion, so Mrs' B's task for the day - Keep the machine idling till I need to empty it!

My tool for the week. First job, remove the IC from in the grass (for when we were going to hook into the septic tank) Didn't take any more pics until finished! But I had a bit of socket pipe and a slip coupling from all the UG drainage bits I had left over. Knew they'd come in handy one day!! I'll be honest, I didn't bother with any pea gravel, It's going to have a limited life, septic tank will be decomm'd when we finally move in, and none of this run has any pea gravel, so not wasting any on this short bit of repair. Job jobbed!

D day has arrived. Operation dig the hole will commence at some point today, it's only been sat waiting for 2 months! Must be losing my grip! Was chatting to an acquaintance this week, he used to labour and what not on sites round this district, suggested I put some ground anchors into the concrete base, let the concrete go off, then strap the tank down as that's what they did on the sites. Instructions don't say to do this... Wonder if this is one of those installer tricks that is never written down! Thinking of surrounding it in kerb mix, would that be the right stuff to order? How much concrete can I put over the barrel up the riser? I've got about 7-800mm to play with before ground level.

just had a look at these, what a great idea! Thanks for posting, its the sort of thing us mere mortals don't know existed till now, just like C stud infill timbers for doorframes. A question to the boarding gurus, you see things like waferhead screws on metal frame, and possibly the metal tabs on these brackets are likely to sit proud of the frame a little bit, is this likely to be a problem for plasterboarding, and finishing or not really, and this can be tolerated?

@joe90 did you treat your brick Window cills? I've done similar (angled brick cills) and notice a bit of discolouring on the north side - slight dampness for longer than the other elevations and lack of direct sunlight I guess. I wonder if a little bit of masonry sealant might help.

I think you’ll get a positive verdict if you Increase the cavity width to 200mm and fill with cavity bats, or blown beads, easier to install for your builder and probably cheaper too. Beaten to it…

So within the thermal envelope of the building? If so, then getting it up there, removal if and when, and Structural elements aside I don't see why you couldn't.

If you think they are in breach of a contract over what was promised, vs what was supplied, then best speaking with a solicitor, especially if they are now altering the planning to suit what they supplied.

A picture worth its weight, any edge support at the wall required @nod

Consider a typical new build dormer, room in roof arrangement, insulation under the trusses. What's the best/easiest way to batten out for, and what's easier to fix to for when I plasterboard? For any services I've already created a couple of channels in the insulation. Tis my job for the weekend possibly, maybe... So to save any more procrastination and time wasted Trusses vary between 600 and 400 centres. Should I batten along the trusses, or perpendicular to the trusses? I'm not planning on installing any lights in the slopes. And is 100*25 ok to use as battening (I've got a pile on site)? Planning on 12.5 mm plasterboard, so if I go across, then 400 centres? and edge support where it meets the wall, or opening?