crispy_wafer

success, looks like it can. Just need a switch or two.

I think I could quite easily live with having a setup like that, let the unit decide what it wants to do most the time, but have a couple of switches that boost for a period of time. Just picking through the commissioning guide now to see if I can set a timer on the volt free.

Yes, that's a downside that Mrs and I discussed, especially when its a night time visit!

I've got a Vent Axia kinetic s MVHR, I've added the volt volt free input option and the switched live 2/3 input option without really knowing what do and which would best suit my needs. Basically approached it with a sledgehammer to crack a peanut... I'm at the point of running the final wiring in the build before PB so it's crucial I think that I get wires to where I need them (if I need them that is)... If you don't mind helping a dummy and guiding me in the right direction please? Starting with the MVHR unit, it's got a built in Humidity sensor and will do it's fan control thing as and when. But there may be occasions when I need to increase extraction manually. What do I need to do this? Can I connect to the lights in the bathroom/s to boost on light on? For those that have been down this road, would love to hear real use feedback. I guess I want to cover my bases now, I guess I can always disconnect at the MVHR unit if not needed at a later date.

Yes, I guess. If the horizontal is that much cheaper and if you've got room for manoeuvre then I guess a 90 to change the angle and then a straight bit of pipe down might work??

how about something like this from schluter? Schluter KERDI LINE V/VS/VOS Linear Drains - Tiling Supplies Direct

Over here we get 15p per kWh back to grid, on Octopus Tracker I'm paying generally 16-18p per kWh consumed. Certainly for me right now it's better to pocket the eddi cost and install fee.

indeed, I bought a pack of 10 of them, and to be honest, if you can buy a sheet of EPDM, cut it into sections and use a drill bit to puncture a hole in it you'll be 99% of the way there.

now that's exactly what I'm thinking of, whether I can execute it aswell remains to be seen. But thats just perfect for me. How did you finish the ceiling? Cut a rectangle out of the board, or fingers for all the pipes?

I've been pottering about with hep over the last couple of evenings, getting the Hep down from the 1st floor void into the plant cupboard in and orderly and tidy fashion is proving a challenge, I know its only a plant cupboard, but it will look crap and bug me forever. To resolve I can think of two options 1) cut the hep up in the void and install 90's on each and run copper tails down the wall to the manifold, or 2) install the manifold in the floor void and just run supply and drain tails down the wall. Have an access hatch in the ceiling so I can poke my shoulders, head and arms in there should I need to. What do you think?

MLCP is a good compromise, holds it's shape and doesn't rely so much on the outer layer to form the connection. I think if I was to go again then I'd go MLCP rather than HEP tbh. Keeping hep scratch free over the duration of 'My' build has been hard work.

Ok, you win. 😉

Nice design, Where are you putting the kettle?

I'd go with middle

anything in the screed? ufh pipes?

Aah yes, searching control cable brings up lots of discussions on here so thanks for that, lots to read about. What size would you recommend?

Just looking at the electrical schematic for my Grant HP, as I'm trying to work out how many cables I need run out to the heatpump (All in the name of making penetrations and sealing up), I need a bit of help, could someone give a once over for me please? So excluding the electric supply. 1*3 core from Grant EP002 Interface 1*3 Core from Wiring centre 1*2 Core from Controller 1*2 core from HW Cylinder Does that seem right?

Have one, I basically just want the hidden cable to be Cat5/6 rather than some proprietary cable with big fat ends that's of no use should a competitor enter the market.

This looks like it might solve a problem... Then I can just run a cheaper ethernet cable to the endpoint.

Yeah, I have it. Previous was FTTC with a copper cable that managed about 16Mb DL on a good day. Average between 120-200Mb, and latency between 25-40ms. Son plays fortnite on his XBOX and doesnt scream about lagging now, so all is good. Bought the refurb kit in December at 50%. Have bypassed, and connected to my own LAN. I'm not in the new build yet, but am debating on running some conduit with the Starlink cable down to where my rack will be, I do need to think about what changes there will be with Starlink, hardware and how they connect in the future, as its a bit non standard, and the cable run will be completely closed up. Migrated the landline telephone service to A&A. So the Openreach cable can go in the bin for all I care now!

Loctite 55, got me out of trouble when I needed to install my dunsley stove w backboiler. Allowed a little bit of rotation on the joint for lining up.

Perfect thanks, @sharpener @Super_Paulie I'll be drilling from outside in, so I'll definitely take that tip on board.

Great idea, but another of the many things I didn't consider when starting my self build journey. I reckon I could compile a checklist for anyone new to this game.

Still on with making penetrations through my brickwork and have come to sorting the outside taps. Using something like this Made4Trade Wall Plate & Tube 15mm x 350mm | Toolstation Had it in my mind to drill hole, and sleeve with 22mm overflow pipe. Should I be insulating the pipe through the brickwork? My worry is, if I drill too big a hole to accommodate pipe insulation then there wont be sufficient brick left to screw the backplate too. Will be fitting an isolator internally, so can turn off supply and open tap up in extreme cold should I need to.