crispy_wafer

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10 gallon hat and spurs time. how's about cut a piece of ply to the same shape as the metal footplate and glue with some super dooper polywhatsit adhesive to the screed. Cut tile so that it fits perfectly around the bit of ply. Make sure the ply is the same depth as tile and tile adhesive. The metal footplate will cover the ply.

If it's not a daft question... What's the purpose of those doors? I'm thinking along the lines of fitting something to satisfy regs and the BI and then remove and make good later on, however if they are for firespread or something then nah! They are nice looking doors though!

keep at it, it's not quick and it's not simple. I've had plenty of moments where I've spent a day doing something, then ripping it down and doing it again because of an oversight, getting ahead of myself, or because it was just wrong! This forum is a great sounding board, and there are some threads that have a lighter hearted view on things that help take the edge off and help getting things into perspective with everyone's different journeys.

I'm not sure I'd be bonding in place to be honest, a bit of twist when threading and I get the feeling it could break free. I think we can take the 'must be accessible' far too rigidly at times. I'm not sure there are too many cases where the joint, or transition to copper isn't either behind the wall, or in the wall face, cupboards I guess you can run hep right to the tails, or appliance outlets using service voids. Showers and some bathroom fixtures necessitate joints at valves that are concealed and at the outlets. It's about mitigating risk as much as possible and choosing which compromises are worth taking. p.s I purchased a frame for hanging a basin this weekend and that too had 1/2 - 1/2 wall plate elbows on it too, so they must be somewhere out there.

concealed-shower-bracketlength-150mm-thermostatic-mixer-tap-bar-back-plate-bsp-thread-faucet-connection-set-12x12-x-l-150 (pswtradesuppliers.co.uk) If pushed, and you need singles, you could buy these, saw in half, drill holes in the plate if needed and mount... Not as aesthetically pleasing, but sometimes you just have to innovate.

1/2 Inch Elbow Backplate Pipe Fitting Back Plate Wall Mount (plumbing4home.com) Bit pricey, Think I paid that for the warmer shower wall plate. or G 1/2'' Brass Wall mounted 2-way Air Junction 16 Bar | Tameson.co.uk

Didn’t really need one, but bought one anyway 😳. #cantsolderwontsolder let the plumbing commence!

I think you pinged me that manual before, looks similar. Thanks. I'm right going with the 3 port valve that's on my pre plumbed cylinder then rather than trying to match the plumbing on grant cylinder?

Without wanting to derail the thread too much can I ask @JohnMo a question I've seen this Grant comment quite a lot and never really questioned as I don't really know wrong from right at this point! Is this meaning the actual physical installation and the way the hydraulics are piped up, and/or the way the system is controlled via the interface. I'm curious as I'm yet to connect my unit up and can still make amendments to my scribbled design! The Grant install guide has 3 schematics to follow plus a high level diagram early on, the Chofu install manual just has a pretty high level diagram in it.

My thoughts were dependant on how much floor space you had to play with, you have plenty, so stick with your initial layout. I'd probably look to go left, either straight out the wall, or left then along the bath then straight out, down then into the IC.

Are you dead set on the WC location? Route WC left around the bath and out back wall? Or swap wc and basin round and route basin round the bath to back wall, and route basin waste round the bath. What are the dimensions of room, can you afford to loose some space build a false wall to conceal the pipework, a couple of niches, hidden cistern etc?

oooh bugger, very lucky not to have water tracking down the light pendant. Any evidence of the path the water has taken?

I've seen board to board edges screwed and dabbed together with bits of offcut plasterboard plasterboard and adhesive before.

Question for the boarding guru's. Stud wall at 400 centres, likely to have backer boards attached in shower area. Can I use gfs1 for supporting edges, and mid board support instead of cutting up noggins? I could use thicker backer boards but have scrounged some gfs1 left over from metal framing that went up at work.

If any assistance, I'm using 1/2 to 1/2 shower wallplates from Warmer, with hep 1/2 to 15 transitions.

Spot on that! That's just the size I'm looking for too! In the same ballpark as the abacus ones from rubberduck. I think that would fit snuggly in a 500mm wide hole!

🤣 Yes, it's been a long long week. Thought I was climbing the ladder and making progress, about to tick off one room, only to discover this wonderous idea of a recessed cabinet. Down the snake back to square number 3!!

Thread revival @Pocster, I'm looking to fit a recessed mirror/cabinet into my small downstairs shower. Not too many results on the old google. What did you fit? Have you been happy with it, has it stood the test of time?

Thankyou, I wont entertain that idea then, I've got 1/2 f to 1/2 f wall plate adapters that I'll continue to use.

Have to admit I'm learning slowly with what can and cannot be done, but last night I was playing with 15mm brass wallplate, and a 1/2" - 15mm hep20 female socket. I found I could take the nut and olive away from the wall plate and thread the hep20 female socket on to it. Can I do this, or am I likely to cause problems for myself at a later date? Thx Marek

I'm Double checking my list of bit vs what the install guide says laying stuff out on the floor as I go... I've got to, according to the guide, put in an air vent/valve at the highest point. I've a couple of questions on this. 1) Is this needed on flow to the UFH pump and on return to the HP, or just one on the flow side? 2) Because at the moment the highest point is located in the 1st floor void and I'd rather not fit an access hatch in the ceiling, can I pipe off to a cupboard or loft space and install the air valve there? That pipe could be up to a 3m run or so, is that ok do you think? Can anyone recommend a manual valve, or could I use a drain down fitting that I can then attach a hose onto and pipe into a bucket or bowl. Thx Marek

He's probably allocated a day for the job, so whatever day rate is plus materials. I'd forget about hourly rates for tradesmen!

Wonder how it would look with drop ceiling in over the island with some led strip lighting round the edge?

Reckon if I moved into a house with either design, I could live with them quite happily!