crispy_wafer

Saw this picture whist browsing tiles yesterday and loved the idea, so much so, that I'm going to attempt to get a look similar. We already have the inset ready to be installed, but I was undecided on the wall finish till now. I haven't done any homework yet, on how to achieve this, the subject wall at the moment is just plain blockwork. I may just pay someone to do this as me and tile adhesive are a real messy combination, but I'd like to be forearmed with info first so I can understand what's taking place. Will I need to prep the wall first, and should I expect the tiler to use a special type of adhesive to deal with the potential heat from the inset? What sort of costs should I be expecting on a 5*2.4m wall?

looking good, well done sir!

Spot on, Thankyou.

I'm just going to drop this here, not only as a reminder to self - as I'll forget, but for others to see in the future.

Shower tray is 35mm, add tiles and adhesive, so there'll be about 20mm +- a bit step. I don't feel confident with me DIY'ing a former on my 1st floor too much internet reading has frightened the bejesus out of me, so I'm not going to give it any head space. Yours looks spot on though @Thorfun!

No apologies necessary, all good info. Thankyou. 👍

They do seem it, and It'll be a shame to carve a big hole out of them...

Hi all, What's the general consensus of laying shower trays onto this type of flooring (caberdek), the floor is stable. However chip goes like weetabix if it gets wet... Should I cut a section out and replace with ply?

Hardboard or shim, plenty of foaming glue then replace nails with something like a Tie connector screw (not a run of mill wood screw)

Bathroom on 1st floor... What would be the recommended prep for tiles? I'm actually trying to work out the height for the w/c frame, but as the finished floor will be tiles I'm trying to work backwards. Do I need to install a ply or nomoreply layer above, if so what thickness would be advised please, or none at all and just a ditra mat? Currently got this stuff on the floor, glued, nailed and screwed onto pozi's (another picture below). Installed onto pozi's

Just to close this, the pozi's are installed into hangers onto a steel, I detected a small amount of movement in the joist when pushing and pulling the corner of the bottom chord in the location circled on the photo! I have since glued and screwed lengths of 5*2 as bracing against its neighbouring joist to try and mitigate against any future lateral movement.

I was going to press, one way or the other. I could obtain some 16mm U jaws if it came to using the pert. Does the pipe need to be a certain type for pressing. Or would a load of Wunda pert al pert be suitable, I've got a handful of 15-30m offcuts left over from the UFH install. It was the transition from 16mm to 15mm that was causing me a bit of worry. I think I've seen eurocone adapters mentioned perviously on this forum, then there are the long press tails too. When there are many ways to attack a job I get confused in choosing the most appropriate/professional way. Please would you mind sharing? As long as the pipe is straight, the a bit of foil tape wrapped round the pipe to make it look like chrome, or there are those pipe covers... Bringing the pipe up behind has a few benefits, in that if you need to trim a bit of pipe for whatever reason, then you can do so quite safely without it eventually disappearing into the floor (Thinking of maintenance in future years)

Any issues in plasterboarding over 15mm+ @nod? keeping the boards all in line on the same dab depth so it doesn't end up a bit wavy. What's the max you'd ever dab over?

@RichJ Hi, would you mind posting what bits you'd be using please? I'm going to run piping in for rads upstairs (just in case!) and whilst I got access to the voids, and leave tails where they can be got at. But am going round in circles deciding what products to use... Manifold, eurocones and left over UFH pipe... Or just make up a copper manifold and balance at the rads. Have you sussed out the transition from 16mm - 15mm. Marek

I'm not running my heatpump yet, but I guess you have to be flexible in your approach, you have to find what works for you in different scenario's. I've been reading the various threads and trying to take the conclusions and build up my own plan, because I just know this time next year I'll be joining in with the various ASHP threads as I try to find the right balance on my HP install. As users we will have to come to a compromise by trying to eek out every last drop of efficiency vs being comfortable, and if that means a couple of quid extra per day when it's baltic outside then so be it. Life's too short to be freezing in your own home.

yes, I can do, and will do this. Phone died, but boshing the hanger with a hammer encouraged the flanges back behind and against the timber stopping the creak. before the flange was tight on one side but a few mm out on the other.

Hi All, Been working in the bathroom upstairs and have discovered a creak in my floor. The floor build up is 22mm egger on 304*122mm pozi joists, glued and ring shank nailed. The creak is coming from either close to or right at the end of the joist where it sits into the hanger. The hanger sits onto a steel. I can access from below, and if I pull/push the joist with my hand from below I can make the joist creak on command! The bit of flooring above is fitted tight to the steel, every other bit of flooring the builder left about an inch gap. I'll pop up some photos tonight. But would love some help with this. Ta Marek

With our relatively small area of attic trusses of 4.8m * 3m between uprights. I glued and screwed 63mm*38mm inline, then again perpendicular before laying the boards.

as above, no requirement for a duct, but mine traverses 13m through the build under the B&B the duct would be useful if ever it needs to be changed. Probably not in my lifetime though!

might be the lighting.... or just the calibration on my monitor

We went through a foundation trench block with lintel over the top. I put 110 mm drainage pipe and pushed the mdpe through that, then shoved pipe insulation over the mdpe pipe all the way along to the bend where it comes into the build.

Amongst this weekends tasks I intend on battening out a block wall for a recessed consumer unit and some service routing. Should I frame the wall, like a stud wall with horizontal header and footer, or is it simply ok to install verticals every 400 top to bottom? Also, is it worth insulating the voids, whilst avoiding the cable drops to the CU? Construction is brick and block with a full filled cavity. Should I add strips of dpm to the backs of the timber and should I paint the blockwork with airtight paint (got some soudatight left over)? Thanks Marek

Mine is exactly the same... Short piece of flue that terminates above the register plate, so 6" pipe into a 9" pumice chimney. It's not ideal and yes soot does drop and build up on the register plate. I periodically drop the register plate to clear the soot because when burning the stove hard with wood, flames can lick up and catch the soot. Most of the time I burn smokeless Ovoids and there isnt much in the way of flames roaring up the chimney... My install was done and HETAS signed off, I only found this arrangement last year by accident too . Now I know a bit more about these things it appears that a clay pot adapter of sump adapter should have been fitted to gather and allow the soot to fall back into the stove, rather than building up on the register plate. If you are staying there, then budget accordingly and have the job done right, you know it makes sense! Do you really want to faff about with it for the rest of it's existence? Most installers will go for the flue liner because that's easy for them and rules out any chimney issues causing you and them grief and call backs. With mine, we've lived with it like this for 13 years and I'm out of there next year so will continue my observation and cleaning routine.

This thread was piquing my interest as I've some pipes to insulate too, then I remembered there were some snippets of info in this thread that I'd saved. and pipeinsulation.pdf (nhbc.co.uk)

Reckon everyone needs a track saw, they are an absolute gamechanger. I've got a Bosch one it's ace, Corded though, but I can deal with that. To think I procrastinated for so long before buying too. I keep scouring amazon warehouse for 'used. like new' tracks and stuff. Although I've got 2 1.4m tracks I could do with a dinky one to go with. First rule of self build should be - Allocate 2/3k to tool purchase, then you don't need to feel guilty!