crispy_wafer

I do use the multi for tidying up the edges, hadnt thought about trying a whole cut out with one though, the blocks are only fibolite blocks, not too hard, but not the softest either, any specific type of blade? Or just go at it with an old metal or wood bit (I do keep a pile of old ones for the crappy jobs)

Morning all, I need to bash my blocks about 10mm or so I can install backboxes, I've done a handful, chain drilling and then using a wide chisel and a brick hammer to clean up with some success. But, my wrists are aching, I'm getting bored, and it's taking a long time to do... What's the best type of chisel for my SDS to speed up this task. I'm happy chain drilling to depth, as I can get my son to do that before I follow him round with the SDS. Thanks Marek

Right... So in your case that's the givenergy AIO 6, we dont have too many powercuts , it's more of a case of having a feature in place that would keep the necessary bits running for an hour or two, or four! without too much faff.

Probably a really noddy type question, but anyway, what should you need to look out for for say a UPS type install. E.g a pretty Seamless switchover when there's a power outage. Or do they all do it, or is it something that needs specifying up front? TIA Marek

I think, it's the inverter that's the key for 3 Ph. certainly according to givenergy... 3-phase battery storage | 3-phase inverters & batteries | GivEnergy

That's right, Allows a choice of inverter as many protocols are supported. You can either go victron if you want to tinker lots, or solis if you want a simpler functionality. Anyway, I'm lightyears away yet! Just filling my black book with snippets of info in advance.

Ive been looking at these Fogstar Energy 15.5kWh 48V Battery l Fogstar UK They do some DIY kits too. Maybe something to investigate for when I finish my build...

Thanks, Found it

I usually buy paddock seed mix for the grazing in the fields from boston seeds, pretty sure they'll have an amenity mix that would suit.

Decided to use a dual control thermosphere dc-w-01 device, to minimise the clutter, and simplify the install.

English regs, Can I plan for a socket closer than 350mm to an internal corner of a utility room. I read something that mentioned uninhabited rooms and a utility being an uninhabited room, but that was off some site out there in the wild. Thanks Marek

👍 yep, its the metal partitions and ceilings (res bar) and the fine thread screws giving me the issues. Probably down to me (user error) but i'll persist.

Agreed, None of my stud walls are structural, most of my timber work is cupboards, metal frame mostly for partitions. brings it’s own problems though, I’m finding the fine thread plasterboard screws don’t like to penetrate the plasterboard and are leaving heads slightly proud of the board, then just spin.

I found, as a novice, that the using screws gave more control over final position of a stud, nail gun in my hands tended to knock the studs away from where I wanted them. In the end I used a mixture of both, but much preferred to use screws.

The main guts of mine is in a tub just under the inspection chamber lid. I was meaning pulling out the bubble gubbins if needs be, this lays on the floor of the tank My unit's a Rewatec ASP thing.

Agree, wouldn’t go near a poo tank with mechanicals in it. Only advice I can give if you are going down that route, would be get it installed by a competent persons, then signed off by klargester and then take out a maintenance contract so someone else has to deal with issues should they happen. With an airpump system, quite honestly I wouldn’t be worried about putting gloves on and pulling out the pump and bits.

4g/5g then Starlink, alternatively you may have an ‘air fibre’ provider in the area, worth checking.

3 years in, are you still using/specifying these @nod , was just out on the internet looking for ways to make my plasterers life a bit easier and stumbled on these... So, waste of money, or would the plaster appreciate.

Love the smilies in the backboxes... Can I ask how you cut, and set the backboxes in the blocks, I'm about to embark on this and am looking at various methods, while I pluck up the courage to go for it!

Belt and braces, I’d tape it too, or event give it a good couple of coats of soudatight paint.

I use these nozzles, good for tight spots. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256270021355?_nkw=expanding+foam+gun+nozzles&itmmeta=01J5JV75ZS7DY2NK1HP7VC2AZM&hash=item3baae232eb:g:ULgAAOSwcyNlMD77&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKk%2Brqx7%2Bbsuyp7ejiKYKTnebIP9W39Ke6NzjORcTdOnidiG%2FO2v%2FljpnR2lybJ7icSHncP3PxeeJdQ1ppIb6Q79DTtVzxTLDT4xOLNcesZRyjj3KhpHn40hGTfyZKF1CBUBWbXUL%2BtkWFMhmEEBEVJBlNoGU0rH0wVXonGlzWhN22qmWnQDF1QHT4yGLbNshL%2B666a5jRYv%2B7FKi9cZPbpKh6HIzTyb%2FpQrgivfnzh0I95r83q0tTOCoJ3g6f9tSXIPMufGl7oBkGp0nVYf%2B27%2FTVxbMQd08y171g1GIuFt7Q%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM-t-c26xk

Echo this, 20 of amazons finest, I keep the worn ones for plasterboard, and cutting into blockwork.

Any reason why the wall couldnt be blockwork, add a micro cement finish to imitate the concrete?

Actually I could use a 2 channel unit, rather than separate units. That could simplify matters.

Confused... Trying to plan the backbox layout in one of my cupboards for my bathroom UFH and towel rail controls, and sort the first fix electrics for the spark at the location (as in pull in the required qty and type of cable). to date I've run a length of 2.5 t+e to the location from the CU. I want a separate control device for each. Looking at the installation docs for UFH mat, I need an FCU too. So that's 3 backboxes. Do I need to plan in an FCU for the towel rail too? Making 4? So then does that mean I need 2 cables from the CU, one for each? In practice how's this scenario normally dealt with?