Dave Jones

we used a single RSJ with a plate welded to bottom to carry the inner skin. Clad the underneath (same RAL cladding as windows) to hide the steel

the only way they can force you to pay is court. currently a min 30 week wait for a small claims slot, normal county court worse. Depends if you want the cash for cashflow (borrowing it) or have it spare. If i was using borrowed cash id write them and offer to pay it off in X months whenever you will be submitting your reclaim, their error. Obviously if you plan on using them again its a different decision.

i love this sort of stuff. off to find an interior design forum to suck inspiration from. ......

actually impact gun isnt good for those plugless conc screws it shatters the thread they cut, a drill driver is much better i found. Put some sticksall on the soul/floor/wall plates and it will never move. https://www.toolstation.com/stixall-adhesive-sealant-290ml/p77137

I trench them out to save chiselling, the festool circular with rail is brilliant for this. The rail turns it into a mobile chopsaw as you can cut any angle, with a composite and depth at the same time. I made a bunch of gates using half lap as well, saved ££ against bought as there really isnt much to it. https://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/festool-769942-cross-cutting-guide-rail-fsk-420

of course you can ! Shared access is one example, I've driven over it for x years without a problem but no idea who owns it.

sorry i wasn't clear, yes standard half lap with a paslode nail through it.

an easement is most definitely nice to have but not the end of the world. Can get an indemnity. In reality no one is going to dig up the road and cut your pipe off.

they dont bother with any of that nonsense on site. They go along the plate and shoot 90mm nails in with a paslode. Watched them. At the end of the day if its strapped to the walls how is it ever coming off ?

the way they did it was, rest the straps on the newly mucked plates. Drill them into the walls. When roofers came the following week they had a paslode gun that shot twist nails and they shot all of them into the plates as they put the trusses on. The point being by screwing to the wall the plates cant bow in the meantime. Not that that matters anyway from the tolerances on the trusses.

is where your planning to put the house higher or lower than where the chamber to the road will be ? If its lower by 13mm/M to the farthest point on your build then away you go. If its not then you have a pumped chamber, add a few more quid to the build. Either case infinitely better for you and the valuation than being on a stink tank.

this. low end sliders came out 750/m2 when i got quotes.

ive not done this, but assume with a block and beam floor you could vent into the void beneath it ?

you dont have to keep up, you can cut them all soon as the first block is laid as you have your wall lengths at that point. if your worried leave them long where they meet gables and they easy trimmed. As others have said strap them down the same day, our chippy just ran 55mm wood screws straight into the thermolite blocks to hold them.

the point is, you want the chamber on your land to be as deep as possible while still giving fall, this way you have maximum flexibility for your plot. For example if you need a long run from the back of the house to the chamber, if its shallow you may run out of fall. Work on 13mm of fall per M as a minimum.

out of interest where is the closest electric to you, overhead or road ? There are schemes to help getting connected if you qualify (pensioner/benefits etc).

put a 300mm chamber on your land, the lowest in the ground possible to still give you fall then connect onto the pipe in the road. The materials will be less than £100+re-enstating the drive. A days work for a groundworker with a digger, done just that on our build. They dug down found the pipe in the lane, cut it and put a plastic 'T' with rubber boots to go from plastic to clay and filled it all back in. 25m run and they were done by lunchtime. https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Clay-to-Plastic-PVCu-Drain-Adaptor---Black-110mm/p/430042 As long as you dont have to go deep then a 300 chamber will suffice. https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-3-inlet-mini-access-chamber-base-black-300mm/18837 Dont call anyone just do it.

snap his hand of now! Get a manhole connected to it on your land ASAP. A local builder could do it no problem.

sorry Peter you are quite correct, i misread the posts.

ask them what they will accept ?

and get it yourself from the builders merchant, all the crap banana lengths get left on top of the stack and thats the crap they will deliver to you.

clad it it fireproof board, cheaperst you csn get. Have BC come and sign it off. Rip it off and put the cladding back on.

why weren't you able to resolve in 2 months ?

PeterW, have a read on the reclaim guide its not black and white at all. If the vatman considers the garage part of the demolished house (in the curtilage) then could be a problem. Not saying it will or wont even it maybe could be fixed. Just I wouldt be comfortable rolling the dice on losing some/all of £40k+ for the sake of rebuilding a garage, for a couple grand. Have to be careful with PD as well, they withdraw it as a matter of routine when granting planning where I am. So if you commence and instruct building control against a planning permission can be in a sticky wicket.

what sort of property are you in, caravan, static ?