Dave Jones

all this hassle to avoid making the sparky re run some wires.....

replace with pozi's ?

hehe i know. chop the fecker off so it doesnt spoil the ceiling line.

whats that offcut hanging out the ceiling ?!!

flashband the rooflight, then come the summer get some rubber on the roof.

sloppy workmanship, the ridge clips should be seated properly, if they didnt double batten underneath it there isnt anything for the screws to bite into. The dry ridge is very poor, maybe they tried to apply the self adhesive backing in the rain so it didnt stick.

Who submitted the application you or the architect ? If the latter I would be having strong words. It's their job to proactively chase it up not fire and forget.

did similar to @James94, dug the trench where I wanted it, i cut a scaff plank in half then pushed it into the ground at the end of the trench with the digger bucket to make a post. Brought the pipe up to it and build the lock box to the scaff plank.

Well that's all the problems solved then!!! The OP says its part Q and he has to keep the existing walls and then says he can add new walls outside ? Something doesn't add up here. If its part Q approved then it SPECIFICALLY excludes building outside the original envelope so that's the additional wall out of the equation. https://www.herefordshire.gov.uk/downloads/file/8236/class_q_guidance_note_–_conversion_of_agricultural_buildings_to_residential_use Could you post your drawing of the build structure you will be sending to building control for regs or dont you have them done yet ? Not trying to rain on your parade OP but you seem to be missing all of very first step ? You don't want to crack on and spend a lot of money only for planning to make you pull it down.

I thought you couldn’t change the external size of your build ? sticking 100mm/150mm of insulation to the outside and then cladding it would make it all protrude outside the roof line. what has your architect recommended?

have you priced the build yet ? If you think blocks are expensive you may be in for a bit of shock! Have you submitted your plans to building control ? You starting with the most expenive type of build as well a conversion. You have a massive floor area 24mx16m 384m2 Even if you do all the work yourself you we be very lucky to get sub £1000 m2 and your worrying about 4k's worth of conc blocks.... Get the whole lot priced so you know what your getting into.

As I understand you have to keep the external elements as is but not the internals. Have to keep doesn't mean you cant take them down and rebuild to housing standards as you woulkd never be able to fix anything otherwise. It just must be the same when you put it back.

ah ok. id definitely be digging down to get some height for starters. Assume you are removing all the external tin and replacing so will be able to make a cavity to fill with insulation. Are you having a blockwork inner skin or going for studwork ?

what is the build structure ?

your right these are all compromises as the cill below wasn't fitted correctly. I think id be inclined to take out the top window, acro it up, and have a builder fit a tray to the lintel below then refit.

10k sounds a bit drastic. Could you try a lead apron to force the water to the front of the cill below ? Cut a slot beneath the top window cill the full width of the cill below and much in lead that laps down over the front of the cill below. Then two more cuts and more lead over the top with side of the little window to catch run off from the edges. It's not going to look the prettiest but a decent lead man could dress it nicely and it would be no more than a days work. Have him use waterproofer in the muck to belt and braces.

this the one that was causing the one below with no cav try to leak ?

in my searching for the same i found a place that will cut the boards ready to go together. They have loads of board finishes as well. https://www.cutwrights.com/new/Home/ChooseYourBoards?searchText=Walnut https://www.jmfdoors.co.uk/ also found software then you design your units and it will export a cut list to send to the above https://wooddesigner.org/store/ I'll be using it on our next one for sure.

if your going to the trouble of a pitched roof then id put a 1st floor under it, your only talking some more bricks, muck and plaster as you done the foundations and roof already.

Why are you bothering with either for a square box that you wont be living in ?

lovely

getting trades will be a problem, all the decent ones round these parts are full next year already.

this is quite correct. Even with a builder managing the lot you will be lucky to get it done in a year.

dpm under the celotex sitting on the sand, its why you blind it. dont have another above the pipes how would the screed flow into all the gaps ? If you intend to lay flooring on the screed it needs to be put in with a laser, if they spin you a yarn about it being self levelling just know it wont be.

there is no RHI for solar anymore