Gone West

I'd go for the silver-grey.

Am I correct in thinking the joists sit on a plate on the gabions where the joists are 60mm above ground and that the chipboard floor is fitted. If so I would consider leaving insulating the floor until the house is weatherproof and then possibly blowing in EPS beads if the oversite is suitable.

What is the depth of the void and what type of joists do you have. A sketch might be useful.

Is the insulation to go on top of or underneath the chipboard flooring as that would have a bearing on the type of insulation used.

Welcome and good luck with your fourth renovation project.

What type of polystyrene and worthless in what way?

I think that was the MK2 version. The first one had a flat end to the fittings and the second one had a more pointed face where the pipe is pushed in. IIRC they also reversed the position of the O ring in relation to the grip ring. The MK1 version pipe didn't have an oxygen barrier either so wasn't suitable for CH.

I first used Hep2O in the early 90s and between then and now they have changed the design many times trying to get it right.

If that happens when you have used Speedfit it must just be lack of experience. It's not a problem I've found using it. Set and match.

Yeah, or something like this. https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/zamori-35mm-offset-pentangle-shower-tray-left-hand-various-size-options

Not quite right but would it be possible to somehow use an offset pentagonal shower tray.

I fitted the the clips and as you say I used different colours. That is the reason I like Speedfit for DIY because it's foolproof. If you haven't tightened/twisted the fitting then you can't fit the clip. The clip isn't needed from a safe fitting point of view because it requires some effort to untwist the fitting and knocking it certainly won't release the pipe. It's funny nobody mentions the fact that you need a special device to undo Hep2O fittings.

I hired a 1.75ton on a few occasions and having never used one before found it easy enough for trench digging and grading. We didn't want to tie up money and risk it being nicked so didn't buy one.

Sounds like the wrong pipe. I plumbed my whole house in Speedfit and they have two types of inserts, a plain plastic one and one with 'O' rings built in. Both are a very snug fit.

Difficult to find something that is to everyones taste, but I like it and find it a lot more interesting than the neighbouring house.

The whole of our TF house is clad in OSB3 racking and as it was to be part of the airtightness layer we fitted it without any gaps. That was nine years ago and there don't seem to have been any problems.

Do you mind me asking how the 150m2 has been calculated. Is it gross internal area, gross external area or net internal area (excluding internal walls).

https://www.labc.co.uk/news/what-average-house-size-uk

I negotiated a self build deal with the scaffolding boss where I had it for as long as I wanted for a fixed price and another fixed price for each alteration. IIRC I paid £2500 and had it for fourteen months and paid £100 for each alteration, but that was nine years ago.

Have you considered a sliding door which I guess could be fitted in either room given enough space.

Both of our airtightness tests resulted in 0.47ach and the tester spent half a day each time at a cost of £200 per morning.

Hi and welcome to the forum. I have found that the airtightness test results can be affected by how windy it is and the wind direction. The chap who did our airtightness test wanted to use the house door inside the front porch because it was unaffected by the wind.

We used Clearview Vista 80X on a glazed gable, I can't see why it wouldn't work on a roof light. We had it installed and I personally wouldn't like to try on a large vertical surface but may on a horizontal surface. Our bathroom roof window has G32 glazing which is good enough to keep out the heat. https://www.sun-x.co.uk/products/clearview-solar-film

It would be easier if we knew 70 what? Is it m3/h.m2 @ 50Pa or ach @ 50Pa, SAP uses the former and nearly everyone else uses the latter.

We had an initial test done before the house was finished to give us an idea of where any problems might be. It was very good but the tester wouldn't accept it as the final test because the house wasn't completed enough. You can always fix any problems and have another test done later.