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Gone West

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Everything posted by Gone West

  1. Gone West
    I used the WPL Diamond DMS2.
  2. Gone West
    Different sewage treatment plants use different methods of installation. Mine for instance doesn't use concrete to hold it down. It has an old 2'x2' stone slab which the base sits on. It has four galvanised angle irons driven horizontally into the sides of the hole which it is strapped to with galvanised chains to prevent lift. It is back filled with sub-base. I chose it because it was a relatively easy DIY.
  3. Gone West
    My Highways Dept. and BCO were happy for me to discharge roof drainage directly onto the road. The water table can vary by 2.5m from road level downwards and they accepted that trying to put large volumes of water into already saturated ground was pointless. The road runs gently down to a ditch and then stream.
  4. Gone West
    Sorry for the late reply, I've been out of the country for a few days. It sounds fine to me, no problem with minor assembly work. Hope the internal antenna is successful.
  5. Gone West
    Our duct comes up through the slab and they are happy with that. They supplied the hockey sticks, ducting and a lot of drawcord and told me originally that they would mole under the road, but that was six years ago!
  6. Gone West
    I'm in the process of having an underground Openreach connection. The pole is on the other side of the road and when the Openreach engineer came out for the survey I asked him if they would impact mole under the road, as it's a 4m single track lane. He said no because because it would cost too much. I asked if I paid and had the duct moled would that be acceptable but he said no because Openreach are responsible for their ducting and therefore they would have to install it. So I'm stuck with them digging up my new kerbs and fencing etc.
  7. Gone West
    That's interesting. Do you have any data for the 3M Prestige film?
  8. Gone West
    I looked at SolarGard Sentinel Plus SX 80 but as far as I could see it was less effective. I think it depends on whether you want the film to be as clear as possible or whether you're happy for it to look reflective.
  9. Gone West
    Here's a list of suppliers I looked at. I'm sure there are other DIY suppliers but I was looking for supply and install. http://www.windowfilm.co.uk/residential/heat http://www.solartekfilms.co.uk/solargard-window-film/ http://www.solargard.com/uk/product/sentinel/ http://www.purlsol.com/exterior-reflective-film/srf-60x-medium-exterior-reflective-film/ http://www.prsolarwindowfilm.co.uk/solar-window-film http://www.sun-x.co.uk/workplace/solar-window-film
  10. Gone West
    Sorry for not getting back sooner. I have several DIY film suppliers listed on my PC, which is causing problems at the moment. Off the top of my head prsolarwindowfilm is one. I'll put links up to the others later.
  11. Gone West
    Sorry for not getting back earlier, PC problems! I'm on my tablet at the moment. It looks excellent, and I too would like the larger backlit unit. I think the price is fine, if you added all your time spent on it then the cost would be a lot higher. Thank you for all your effort.
  12. Gone West
    Did the drainage pipes have connectors already attached or is it just bare pipe under the surface of the concrete?
  13. Gone West
    The gable faces WNW and overheating is only a problem for 2 to 3 months in the middle of summer. The film won't affect solar gain in the winter because the sun doen't shine on the gable in winter. I wouldn't be happy about using an internal film on triple glazing because of heat buildup within the glazing.. The Vista 80X 'Total Solar Energy Rejected' figure for single glazing is 45% and for double glazing is 55%. I asked for a value for triple glazing but it wasn't available. The total cost is £1638 which I think is expensive but then I havn't forked out for any conventional heating or cooling in the house so it's acceptable to me.
  14. Gone West
    I had a quote a couple of months ago to have Vista 80X installed on my glazed 3/4 gable. It's around 4m high in the centre and I didn't fancy doing it myself and cocking it up. It's quite expensive but the last time I used film like that was back in the seventies on car side screens and it didn't look that good then!
  15. Gone West
    I bought most of my first fix electrical stuff from TLC. Bought Schneider sockets, light switches etc and lights from a local electrical store that did a really good price.
  16. Gone West
    As far as I know the Monarch water softeners require an electrical connection whereas the Harvey type don't need electricity to work. The Wrekin water softener I've got now has an electrical connection and uses salt tablets.
  17. Gone West
    Over the last 25 years living in Kent I have used Harvey, Twin-Tec and Kinetico. They are all very similar but for me the Kinetico was the most reliable with the Twin-Tec being the least reliable. A nice touch with the Twin-Tec was that it had a clear, see through, cover over the salt compartment. Wrekin have their own version which is a lot cheaper which I shall probably use in my new build. Edit: I had brain fade, it was a Minimax not Kinetico I had.
  18. Gone West
    We used RAL 7037 for windows, doors, guttering, metalwork etc.
  19. Gone West
    Have an idea of what you want your house layout to be. How many bedrooms, separate dining room or open plan, ensuites? Draw up lots of sketches of different options and play around with them. When you have an idea of the internal layout do the same for the external look. There's plenty of time later to get an architect involved. We did this for about a year while we were dreaming about starting the project. If you've got basic design software try that.
  20. Gone West
    The cedar cladding on my house under the covered areas is still brown but in the areas washed by rain it's grey. That happened within 2 years. If your door and the surrounding cladding is protected then go for brown if not I'd go for grey. Whether it's brown or grey there are so may varying shades in cedar that IMHO you'll find it impossible to match with a RAL number.
  21. Gone West
    The input for a float switch would be very useful for me too. I have a separate containment tank and I fitted a float switch and warning light to indicate if the pump has failed, so I could connect that to the transmitter as well. I appreciate your effort in this and would like to thank you for your help.
  22. Gone West
    I had a 'Create Blog' button appear after I was given permission.
  23. Gone West
    I had three uninsulated power cables that oversailed my plot for which I had a wayleave agreement. I told EDF, who it was at the time, that I wanted the the cables moved because I was building a house in the garden. They negotiated with the farmer, put two new new poles up and replaced the old cables with an ABC cable. It didn't cost me anything. At my previous house I had a similar problem where old oversailing cables crossed where I wanted to install an LPG tank and EDF replaced the uninsulated cables with an insulated ABC cable, again it was free of cost to me.
  24. Gone West
    I would be more interested in a beeper than a flashing light. The beepers I've looked at before were over 110dB which is too loud.
  25. Gone West
    Hi Jeremy, yes I'm interested in the setup using mains at both ends. Our box containing the pump etc is semi-underground. If the transmitter is in the box does it need an external aerial? The box is around 8m from the house.
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