Gone West

It's unlikely they would be able to find out, but if there were an injury/death due to the works then I should imagine they would do a lot of searching.

Action by Building Control can only be taking up to two years after completion. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200128/building_control/38/building_regulations/3

My BCO wasn't interested/didn't notice.

Around here, with Part Q timber build conversions, they get round the regulations by jacking up the roof structure with Acros, removing the walls and rebuilding them, then remove the roof and rebuild.

If you're confident you have plenty of loft insulation then it is a 'brand new well insulated room', although AIUI it still has a big chunk of original house wall in there. If not most of the heat will be disappearing through the ceiling.

I can appreciate you grabbing the offer when made but I don't think it will work out for you. If I understand the new downstairs room is warm but it is the best insulated. Put the woodstove on for a bit to build the temperature up.

If radiators aren't on in some rooms and loft poorly insulated I'm not surprised at the temperatures. An old stone thick walled cottage like yours is going to take a long time to warm up.

To be fair your house is well insulated. If I lived in Zoots house I wouldn't consider using an ASHP it would be an external oil boiler for me.

I would check loft insulation above both rooms but with no heating I wouldn't expect the temperature to be any higher. You really need to have the heating on continuously for some time to get the fabric of the building up to temperature, which you are not able to do.

I filter hard water but don't remove the hardness, so only Chlorine, Nitrates etc are removed.

We have had water softeners for nearly thirty years and Wendy drinks tea and coffee made with softened water. I rarely drink hot drinks but drink cold water and use a water filter.

I certainly wouldn't remove the CWI and would fit as much Graphite EPS as the soffitt will allow with the rainscreen.

That's great, well done. You must both be very pleased with yourselves.

Too much contact with Zoot.

The Lockshield Valve used for balancing is on the outflow of the radiator and shouldn't be adjusted. The other valve can be adjusted and turned off if required.

You're thinking old type houses, which is understandable because your house is old. My house is a modern low energy house and is the same temperature all over 24/7. We use a 4 tog duvet and I'm quite happy sleeping on top of the duvet. We had the radiators on all the time in the previous bungalow and I am slim but no one has called me a stick insect although Wendy often says I'm crazy.

Yes. Quite often the radiator nearest the heat source will have the Lockshield Valve open a very small amount and the radiator furthest away would have the Lockshield Valve fully open. It depends on the layout of the system.

Those cheapo placcy dials are on one side Lockshield Valves and on the other Temperature Valves, which could be replaced with TRVs.. If the radiators have been balanced correctly then the Lockshield Valves should not be adjusted. They are there to balance the system so all the radiators warm up at the same time.

The problem with old thick walled houses is that they have a lot of 'thermal mass' (naughty, naughty ) and absorb a lot of heat and it takes a long time for the temperature throughout the whole area to equalise. When the heating has been on for a long time the temperatures settle down and everything will feel warm. That's why having a thermometer will give a good idea of how long it's taking to warm up. Your new extension should warm up much quicker than the original part of the house unless of course there isn't sufficient insulation in the loft.

It might be worth fitting one now with the whole of the winter in front of us. The insulation roll should be fitted snuggly between the joists and another layer laid on top, perpendicular to the joists. I always think it's worth checking what installers have done, but then I don't trust anyone.

It appears this lot do a 5.5kWe.

If you can't wait this might work. https://www.screwfix.com/p/talon-110mm-pipe-collar-white/61841

Thought that was called a CHP system.

That could be part of the problem then. Best to go up there and check.

The only consideration we had to make was window treatments with tilt and turn windows. We put in extra timber under the plasterboard in case we wanted curtain poles but ended up with blinds on most of the sashes. As was previously said this sort of thing needs to be thought about earlier especially if you want something like roller blinds concealed above the reveals. I think tilt and turn windows often pose problems.