Gone West

We've had some teflon sliders for around 25 years which we've used many many times for moving anything heavy. A bit like these:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273232292342

My stud walls upstairs are 89 x 38mm CLS. Only 3mm, would it make that much difference.

I'm pretty sure you can get stuff with a skin on which I guess would be airtight. Not sure about the open sort, I know Compriband is airtight if it's within it's expansion range and it looks similar.

I would try a temporary solution first rather than gunging up the gap and then not being able to remove it. I would use a round EPDM foam strip that will squash into an uneven gap and then try the hose on it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223789673562

Ours stays the same 24/7 on level 2. The only time the supply fans increase is if the built in EASHP pushes out warm air when it goes to 100% for a few seconds and then modulates down to whatever flow is required. Level 4 is boost which is 100%, we don't change the setting for overnight. Level 1 is for unoccupied and level 3 is a party setting both of which we have never used.

Our fan settings are 30% supply and 45% extract for normal use. I've also got a large difference in valve openings but that is because of the difference in room volumes, but everything balanced out ok eventually.

Around here 'running sand' is another phrase for quicksand. We have it 2.5m down and it's a problem for soakaways if too near the surface.

We used Grass Block which we had bought for our driveway turning circle. It stood up to a crane and many many lorry deliveries before we took it apart and used it for the driveway.

We put in a single row of mixed blackthorn and hawthorn bare rooted 60cm tall in winter 2015/16. They can just about be seen behind the rabbit fence in the first picture. Five years later, second picture, they have grown a bit. They are kept at 1m high as they are on the road edge.

Yes my joist plan had sistered joists on both sides of the stair well.

Is that noise from the bubbling stew or from the air pump.

You're wasted on here

Several years ago when my last Twintec block softener packed up I bought a Wrekin ECO10 or 15, I can't remember which. It worked ok regenerating at night. The only problem was that if there was a power cut it lost the settings and would start regenerating in the day time if I forgot to reset the timer. It was larger than the previous Harvey, Twintec etc I have had, so I sold it and went back to a Harvey Crown when I moved into the new build.

Our house has been built with an I-beam timber portal frame and the joists were included as part of the overall cost.

Our kitchen is 5.9m with metal web joists. IIRC the joists are 250mm deep with 122mm chords and are spaced at 350mm centres. There is zero discernible deflection.

No it's the exhaust. I thought because the exhaust is more likely to have condensation in it I would want it to drain quickly. The ducting slopes down to the outside vents and I've used 45 degree bends spaced apart.

I prefer the ones that are 4 x 22.5's myself.

IIRC our outside vents are 3.5m apart so our pipework is 5m for one vent and 1.5m for the other. I used 45 degree bends to reduce restriction of air flow.

Yes we are happy, had a lot of good comments. The smaller sink is 160mm internal width and is called a half sink or N50 and the larger sink is called a three quarter sink or N75. We didn't want a full size sink as we don't do washing up etc. Schock produce a very large range of different styles and sizes.

I wouldn't say so. I set up ours starting with the level 2, which is 'at home', and getting it all balanced for that and then there is boost, level 4, which is 100%. Level three is set halfway between 2 and 4 and level 1, which is unoccupied, is set halfway between zero and level 2. Our system has run automatically, without a humidistat, for 2.5 years 24/7 on level 2. Our system has a built in EASHP which warms the air if required and, if running, that increases the speed to level 4 for around 15 seconds and then modulates down and varies the speed to what is required to provide the desired volume of air to maintain house temperature.

No the fan speeds are adjusted in order to help balance the system.

A farmer around here had a barn that hadn't been used for agricultural purposes on the dates required for Part Q. So he took the modern door off put a straw bale in the entrance took a picture and said it had been used for storing fertilizer. It's now been converted to offices.

What do you want to include in the costs? Do you have all the tools you are likely to need. Could easily spend several thousand if you need a lot to do it yourself. Are you going to use an architect for planning or building control. Are you going to include the cost of say a 100m2 terrace paved with Welsh slate. There are so many variables I don't think it is a good way of budgeting. On Buildhub you are comparing people who do it for a living with people who have never done it before with people on their fifth self build. Unfortunately you are not comparing apples with apples using cost/m2.

That's something I just do not understand. Our system supply runs at 30% all the time and is not audible even with my ear next to the vent. The extract runs at 45% all the time and is audible but only in those rooms with an extract vent. I fitted an attenuator to the supply side but didn't to the extract side as I didn't think it was worth it, but with hindsight I might have fitted one. I wouldn't dream of reducing the ventilation at night.

Schock black composite granite sinks.