Gone West

TBH it doesn't look like dry rot or wet rot to me but more like woodworm. Your pictures, of the timber surfaces, show lots of little dots of what looks like wood dust caused by woodworm chewing their way out of the wood.

IMHO Ugly House to an even more Ugly House.

Are you sure it is dry rot. Is the roof not well ventilated because dry rot is a fungus and requires a certain level of moisture to grow. I've seen it under poorly ventilated floors even growing along brickwork.

Thanks for mentioning LIDAR which I had never heard of before. I've had a look at the Government website and they mention that specialist software is needed to view the data. Is the data just coordinates and heights for DTM and how can you find the data for a specific area.

This is how I heat my house which is in the SE England near the coast and has an extremely low heat requirement. I have an electric towel rail in each of the three bathrooms, which in the winter, keeps those rooms at around 24C and provides warm air for the MVHR to circulate around the house keeping it at 23C. If more heat is required there is an EASHP built into the MVHR unit which boosts the temperature of the supply air a little more. This form of heating would not work in anything other than a very low energy PH.

TBH if I was short of height space I wouldn't put a lining in at the top just a door stop straight onto the plasterwork of the opening. Just fit a bit of 4x2 or whatever is needed on the sides to hang the door on.

Welcome to the forum. Well I think I'm pretty average but I tend to live out in the sticks where oil is the most common fuel. I wouldn't consider changing from oil to ASHP for heating an old property. If I lived in an old gas powered house I'd be even less likely to change.

Don't know why I laughed cos I like Android, must be the way you tell em.

+1 for Axminster. They have a store fairly local to me and I usually try there first for tools, adhesives etc.

https://www.aecb.net/product/passive-house-planning-package-v9/

Yes.

Looking at your first picture I'm guessing they're around 150mm posts about 2m high. For those I would use about 450mm concrete cubes. I may be way out but I do tend to over-engineer usually.

If I were doing it I wouldn't have the pads more than 600mm deep so the ducting would be safe and I could do the pads later. Easier than boring holes for the posts.

You must be joking Clive, I have trouble remembering what day of the week it is let alone what I had in a box of bits three years ago .

No, the second time was the same as the first, except they pumped it and laid it properly that time.

We have used Cuprinol Garden Shades to paint various woodwork in the garden. It goes on really smoothly and easily and seems to last well. Lots of colours to choose from. https://www.cuprinol.co.uk/products/garden_shades.jsp

We used Siniat Bluclad board behind our brick slips, but they were only 15mm thick.

Sounds like you've got plenty to keep you busy for a while so good luck with the project, oh and welcome to the forum.

As they say time is a great healer and you do forget all the crap times during your build. Having done a complete renovation and a self build I definitely enjoyed doing the renovation a lot more than the new build. Everybody is different and you have to consider whether building a new house is really what you want to be doing for the next however long.

I fitted a silencer on my supply circuit which is silent, but didn't bother fitting one on the extract side and it is possible to hear a hum in the bathrooms from the vents. Fitting a silencer will affect the airflow but to what degree I don't know. I commissioned my system after everything had been installed. My guess is that the concrete sleeve is probably ducting. If the ducting isn't insulated then condensation will form much further back in the ducting and mould is more likely to form.

Hi and welcome to the forum. I considered Sunamp in my build but am glad I changed my mind as there seem to have been quite a few problems with them. There is an alternative coming to market next year called Tepeo which looks to me like a big storage heater with water pipes. https://tepeo.com/technology

I'm not sure I understand completely. What part of the building has got the large thickness of concrete that the extract duct is in. My house is all timber and the ducting is insulated right up to the vent and doesn't have any mould inside. My total wall thickness is 500mm. I don't think replacing the square vents with smaller round ones will affect the condensation but it may reduce air flow.

I get condensation dripping from my MVHR external extract vent for certain weather conditions. It is normal, which is why the ducting leading to the external extract vent should always be angled downwards slightly to allow the water to drain away.

That's what we did, so it was at least half British. Rehau Geneo profiles with windows manufactured in UK.

I used gel PU adhesive to stick some brick slips to the EPS upstand on my insulated foundations. They are still there many years later. https://www.axminstertools.com/titebond-greenchoicetm-premium-polyurethane-construction-adhesive-ax836048