Gone West

It was several years ago but I used the Wetherby system, just for a plinth around the house, six rows. Didn't have any problems.

Looks like 60A, which is odd. Do they put stickers on the other isolator switches, showing maximum amps, when the other phases are connected up.

I bet you're glad, that picture brought back a lot of memories. 😢

🤣 They were Steico I beams which were 45mm x 300mm. The web was 9mm which left 18mm each side, so the ply plates ended up flush with the flange. I didn't have any say in the construction of the frame which was done by the SE and the TF company.

There were no beams used. A picture paints a thousand words, so IIRC the joining pieces were 18mm ply both sides, glued and screwed. I think the roof angle has to be around 45 degrees to prevent spread. I am not a SE though, so could be wrong about that, it was many years ago.

We did indeed have a factory built timber I beam portal frame. IIRC there were limitations when designing, such as the roof angle which determined the maximum width for a given height. Ours was only 6m wide. I think PH15 construct their frames in a very similar way to ours.

Many years ago I had a Victorian semi built in 1900 which had 2" cavity walls. It had a slate DPC and had a damp problem in one area. The problem was due to the soil level being above the slate DPC. Ignore the chemical DPC and look for the level of the original DPC to see if there is a problem with the soil level.

In the fifties and sixties my Dad used animal glue for less serious work and Cascamite where some strength was needed. IIRC we used Cascamite when we built a Mirror dinghy at school in the sixties.

I thought I recognised that picture from around 2018. It was cobbled together connections for the EASHP condensate and the water softener regeneration outflows. It was a standard swept T junction with threaded male end with a reducer with threaded male end. I just searched for female threaded spigots to fit the pipes I had. IIRC they were smaller than washing machine waste fittings.

If you're in England this might help. https://www.planningaid.co.uk/hc/en-us/articles/203179001-If-my-development-took-place-some-time-ago-could-it-be-too-late-for-action-to-be-taken

I used NuLok, but it was 13 years ago in England. The supplier is no longer trading. At the same time a friend used NuLok with their PV system and was very pleased. We were also happy with the product with the exception that there was some difference in colours of the porcelain tiles, so batch numbers had to be checked.

When living in the temporary bungalow while building the house our vented DHW cylinder sprung a leak. I took it out, removed the immersion and tipped out a lot of loose scale that was just lying in the bottom of the cylinder. It was a very hard water area.

@Alan Ambrose , @MikeSharp01 , @Mattg4321 , @MJNewton , thanks for the replies. I have carried out the various tests after leaving it off for half an hour. When MCB switched off L/N = 9V, L/E = 9V, N/E = 0V. Turned the whole CU off and L/N = 0V. So my conclusion is that, it is, as suggested 'ghost voltage'. Every day is a school day.

It's an old Mercury MTM01 multimeter and I've got it on up to 600V. The junction box just connects two lighting supply cables as the other circuit connecting to the junction box was removed some time ago. The 10V has persisted for around 10 seconds. I haven't tried it for any longer yet.

We have a lighting circuit running through a 6A MCB. It has a junction box connecting just two cables which are supply cables. When the MCB is on it's reading around 239V and when the MCB is off, it reads 10V. Is that acceptable or should I be looking for some sort of fault?

Correct, but we did have a well, which we used for watering the garden 😁. Instead of the deep bore soakaway we installed a reed bed system, because we needed a solution quickly for the BCO. We later removed the reed beds when the sewage treatment plant manufacturer improved the outflow readings. This was all in 2010 so I guess things have moved on a bit since then.

I used that system for the plinth on my last house. It was really straightforward to install.

I would use a 300mm concrete gravel board. You don't need his soil against your wall.

One of the original (1840s) external sandstone walls of my house is now an internal wall when a 1970s leanto was built. It's got an area of blown render which looks like it's been repaired before. Under the render is just shale and sandstone, which is all very dry and crumbly. Would soaking it with SBR stabilise it enough to rerender, or does anyone know if there is a product designed for this problem?

We've used Sennocke Insurance. https://www.sennocke.co.uk/ In 2018 we also got buildings and contents cover from Aviva for a timber clad, timber frame.

I think there are three. We used a Roughneck Mortar Gun successfully and cleanly on our sandstone slabs.

I don't like heights, and wouldn't be brave enough to do the things you have done. I have worked on my two storey house roof, after getting used to it. Have you spoken to your doctor about this, as it may not be a phobia.

We fitted a WPL Diamond DMS2 in 2010. We installed it ourselves and didn't have any real problems. The air pump was installed in the box which is largely underground and wasn't especially noisy. The only thing we learnt was to service the air pump annually, which we did ourselves.

@LaChab I've found what maybe a more useful picture.

I had one soil pipe with a fitting very similar to your picture. Mine had a 50mm outlet on the bend, and because it was just a toilet and basin on that soil pipe, I used a 50mm AAV. It was seven years ago so I don't remember exactly what make, but most of my fittings were Floplast or McAlpine.