Gone West

The GRP thickness, I was thinking 3mm sounds about right. So with an old house the angle may change along the wall, so it's sounding more complicated than using EPDM, which would be easier.

@SteamyTea Following on from the other thread, where we were discussing using GRP sheets for flat roofing. I was wondering what would be the best thickness for that application. Also, if I wanted the flat roof (say 1.5 degree slope) to be just under the level of the existing main roof how would that be done? If I were laying EPDM I would continue it up under the main roof tiles, are suitable GRP sheets flexible enough to be able to bend up a 30 degree slope under the main roof tiles?

OK, thanks, I'll do that.

What thickness sheet would you use on a roof and how flexible is it, for example for sliding up under the main roof when installing on an extension.

Butyl rubber has been around a long time and EPDM. To get around the problem of damp when installing GRP on a roof is it feasible to use GRP sheets bonded to the substrate?

I'm sorry, but that is a load of twaddle. You're seriously worried about green streaks on the roof? Oh no, our PVs have some lichen growing along the bottom edge, what am I to do, they've only been there twelve years and we're in the wet and windy South West. We're going to be building a flat roofed extension as well, there's no hope. Perhaps we'll be alright though, as technology has moved on and there are now roofing materials that allow flat roofs to be built safely.

We sold ours during the pandemic and we had several people bidding against each other for it and it sold for a lot more than the asking price. The buyers were all interested because it was a PH.

I'd be surprised. My son lives out in the sticks near Bishop Auckland and there are several large turbines only a few hundred yards away and you can hear the whooosh from the blades, but it's not too bad. Not what I would want though.

When I was modelling my last house, I ran my house design through the PHPP with a range of air infiltration values to see what the effect would be. Pressurisation Test Result (ACH) Specific Space Heating Demand (kWh/m2a) 0.2 12.1 0.4 12.3 0.6 12.5 0.8 12.7 1.0 12.9 2.0 14.0

As it's a contract, and you don't know what it means, I would ask them for an explanation. Does the 230m to tip, refer to the overall blade diameter, or from ground to highest point point of a blade tip?

I've used horizontal hit and miss panels to reduce wind load.

I recently moved to Cornwall from East Kent where I built the house, so not much use I'm afraid. I didn't treat the cladding and we let it go silvery grey.

Welcome to the forum and good luck with your project. I clad our house with Western Red Cedar which I sourced from a local timber yard, as I was able to get the lengths I wanted, in the right grade at a better price than on-line. I used grade 2 clear and better which was virtually knot free.

I use aluminium warehouse for metalwork, usually a good price. https://www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk/collections/aluminium-mouldings-half-round-moulding/products/2-in-x-1-4-in-aluminium-half-round-moulding-hrm

We had AAVs in the house and a low level SVP in the flower bed near the treatment plant.

I think there are plans for changes to PD this year, which might include wraparound extensions. I expect a general election will affect that though. https://www.planninggeek.co.uk/2024/changes-planned-for-permitted-development-rights-for-extensions-roofs-and-outbuildings/

What about 445mm long inclinometer strapped to the crossbar? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-Magnetic-Spirit-Inclinometer-Backlight/dp/B00A2B57AU

Solidor do smooth finish composite doors, but in their contemporary range. https://www.solidor.co.uk/news/the-contemporary-collection/2019/05/

If you mean a Genvex Combi 185 then the DHW tank is 185 litres and it's space heating output is warm air, not hot water for UFH. If the house is insulated to significantly better than PH maximum standards, ie U factors of no more than 0.1 W/m2K then the Genvex Combi 185 LS version should be sufficient for a house of that size.

Your picture showed very poor farming practice and not something I've seen since living down here. As it shows poor farming practice it will be in a very small minority of cases and not representative of beef farming in Cornwall. So why make the comment you did about beef farming in Cornwall? If you really think importing beef from Australia or the Americas full of growth hormone and antibiotics is better than local beef, that's fine, but you won't convince me.

Very true. The first time I converted a window to French doors, back in the nineties, I was so pleased. I did have my helper.

Here is a picture of the field next to my garden. In this part of the country a good farmer takes cattle in for the winter to stop the fields being damaged by the heavy animals and puts sheep in. Showing that picture, to me, proves you are clutching at straws and have lost the arguement.

The sun provides most of the energy. Grass for around half the year and either hay, haylage or silage for the other half plus some cattle feed.

So I guess that means worse working conditions and animal welfare. So I guess that means worse working conditions and animal welfare, as it's not been mentioned. So not comparing like with like. There is a small abbatoir on the outskirts of the village which is used by the local farmers for slaughtering their cattle and sheep. I can buy cuts of beef or lamb directly from the farmer a couple of hundreds metres down the road. The cattle and sheep were kept in the fields adjacent to my garden. So the meat would have travelled a couple of miles maximum. You won't convince me that buying meat from the other side of the world is better for me or the planet.

I used an asbestos test kit from Amazon a few years ago. The results came back within a few days and were as I suspected.