Gone West

Yes, I've got a sample SolarSlate sitting in my loft that's been there eight years.

A friend converted a barn and built his own oak staircase and the BCO was happy with it. He didn't use a SE, just common sense.

Whenever I hire a Rubi 900 they ask me what I'm cutting and give me a new wheel every time, hire cost and cutting wheel £20 a day. Rubi, they're the bees knees.

I was told by Openreach that because I already have an overhead line to the existing bungalow, which is to be demolished, I would have to pay the full amount for an underground supply to the replacement new house. If I have an overhead line to the new house then I qualify for the £3400 subsidy.

My house is 700mm above road level and the road slopes gently past my property. My BCO wanted me to discharge surface water into a SUDs system. I pointed out that the water table is at road level through the winter and disposing of that amount of water wouldn't be possible using SUDs. I spoke to the local highways dept. who agreed to let me discharge directly onto the road and the BCO accepted the idea. I live out in the sticks, the water flows away down the lane into a culvert and eventually into a stream. Highways and BC were pragmatic and helpful. It is often the case that they will accept a sensible option if put to them.

I bought a Monument kit with some extra bungs, it was cheap. It didn't work very well and the BCO said air test kits rarely do. He told me to block the soil pipe in the inspection chamber and fill the system with water and leave it for a few hours. It didn't leak and he was happy.

Several years ago I saw engineered timber windows where the timber was laminated with layers of cork. That would reduce thermal bridging and may still be acceptable to the planners.

So it's a similar sound to plastic guttering expanding in the sun is it? Are the joists nailed or screwed to the hangers?

When I started using plastic push fit back in the 90s it recommended using silicon grease, which I hadn't heard of, and since then I've always also put a smear on compression fitting threads and olives. It makes it easy to judge how tight its done up because there's much less friction. It's also easy to clean up if you ever take the joint apart. It's probably not the correct way to do it but it works for me.

Hi Vivien, welcome to the forum. We also designed our self build ourselves because we knew what we wanted it to look like and what layout we wanted. It's a good to have an idea of what type of construction you want to use because it may impact on the design you want and how much, if any, of the build you want to do.

I bought a copy of PHPP seven years ago and used it to help design my house which is being built to PH criteria. I did design in a large glazed area facing WNW which did cause some overheating in mid summer which was predicted. I have mitigated the effect by using a solar film. I have visited several PH, two of which were designed by PHPP experts but I was not impressed. If you have a scientific background, or not maybe, and read the manual a couple of times before starting to use the spreadsheet I can't see why it can't be used by a non 'expert'. It would at least give you an idea of what you want and input data can be tweaked easily to change results.

My other half wasn't sure what living in a PH would be like so we stayed in a PH B&B for a few days. She liked it straight away. Hope this isn't advertising. http://www.passivhausbandb.co.uk/

That's grim! Did he nibble the whole length of a tile to cut it?

I bought double pole switched sockets and the chap in the electrical shop said he hardly ever sells double pole because single pole are cheaper!

I have a Vitrex 600mm wet cut tile saw bench and I found the quality of the blade affected how clean the cut was more than anything. I use a Vitex Ultimate diamond blade. As the tiles are 705mm long I hired a Rubi 900mm snap cutter for the long cuts. I found the tile saw bench good for short cuts and notching etc.

I know the feeling well!! I thought the ebuild forum was precious as well. I'll also be pleased if Jeremy returns.

@TerryE My experience of Touchwood Homes was about seven years ago. We went to view a house that they had built and had let to a tenant. They were on the same wavelength as us wrt low energy building and we liked it and a friend who was about to build decided to use them. She had a few problems with workers not always turning up when they were supposed to. This was because they had spread themselves a bit thin taking on too much work. They were building several houses in the Channel Islands at the time and the logistics caused them problems. That put me off and I chose a local company. By the time my friend’s build was completed I think they had got back on track and as far as I’m aware there are no problems now.

I used Isoquick Insulated slab and a local timber frame company. A friend of ours laid their own version of an insulated slab and had Touchwood Homes for the frame.

We were going to have a deep bore soakaway which would have discharged into the chalk 47m down. Unfortunately the chalk was water bearing and we now have a well and borehole.

Thanks, that's a brilliant idea. I often wondered now to create a floating staircase in a timber frame.

I like the stairs as well. I don't suppose you have a picture of the other side of that wall before it's been covered. Is that wall thicker than standard?

I use this. It's called Neverbend but I managed to bend it digging a trench. I was trying to lever a block of concrete out without realising what it was! http://www.wickes.co.uk/Spear+Jackson-Neverbend-Professional-Fencing-Grafter/p/131972

I've not used CT1 or Sikaflex so can't comment but this is the one I use and haven't had any problems. Carpenter friend was impressed with it's adhesive qualities. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOUDAL-FIX-ALL-CRYSTAL-CLEAR-SEALANT-ADHESIVE-MS-POLYMER-COMPLETELY-TRANSPARENT-/181107513495

A little light reading? Hybrid MS Sealants.pdf

Excellent. I didn't get it the first time I read it!