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Gone West

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Everything posted by Gone West

  1. We used to go abroad (Madeira) for a couple of months in the winter every year. Unfortunately the result is that the build takes that much longer but it's great having a break.
  2. Ahh, Wrotham School, I went there, crap old days. Poor old @pocster . Hope they do the right thing by you and supply ones the right size at no cost to you.
  3. We have fitted Schneider Lisse white sockets etc. If you want to fit different looking ones and make a feature of them why not. Just because an architect doesn't like them doesn't mean much. Do what you want to do, it's your house.
  4. Don't forget that except for glazing facing between SE and SW which sees the sun all year round the other potentially problem glazing in the summer won't see the sun in the winter. Therefore putting a film on those windows won't affect solar gain in the winter. We have a glazed gable which only sees the sun for four months of the year (mid April to mid August) and we have had a film put on it which has reduced overheating massively.
  5. Well done. It's a good looking site too.
  6. I'm not holding my breath .
  7. Flashband is cold applied.
  8. What about bitumen patch like Flashband.
  9. I've found SBK kills brambles.
  10. @Nickfromwales So was my data of any use in helping you decide whether UFH is worth the bother in a PH?
  11. I think the solution is in the flooring material. In the bathroom and ensuite we have vinyl floor tiles and they are fine. It really shouldn't make any difference whether it's summer or winter because in a PH the temperature doesn't vary much.
  12. Okay, I don't know how scientific this is, but my house has a space heating requirement of 13kWh/m2/a and a heating load of 9W/m2. There is currently no heating of any kind in the house. The outside temperature was 22.8C and it was sunny when I took the temperatures. The wetroom on the ground floor has porcelain tiles directly onto 200mm concrete which has 300mm EPS underneath. Air temp. 24.1C, floor temp 22.6C, room in shade, I've had showers in there and haven't found the floor cold. The hall on the ground floor has the same makeup as the wetroom. Air temp. 25.4C, floor temp 24.1C, some sun. Bathroom on first floor has Amtico Spacia vinyl tiles on 32mm timber flooring with insulation underneath. Air temp. 25.4C, floor temp. 25.3C, some sun. Bedroom on first floor has 14mm bamboo flooring on 2mm underlay on 22mm timber flooring. Air temp. 25.3C, floor temp 24.9C, room in shade. Wendy likes the house warm, which some people would find hot. I don't mind at all, probably old age. The thermostat in the old bungalow was set at 24C, which is why we got through so much oil. I don't bother monitoring temperatures, Wendy is the best judge of comfort levels.
  13. @Nickfromwales I'll have a go later on. Mind you it depends on the insulating effect of the flooring material.
  14. No the ducting is 125mm diameter and is not a manifold system. I designed the ducting system myself and checked with Genvex that it was suitable. The Genvex Combi increases the fan speed automatically if it needs to supply warm air.
  15. I project managed our build and it is very time consuming. I wouldn't consider it unless you can be on site every day. You need to be confident your PM is going to do the job to the standard you want.
  16. We had our Genvex and towel rails running through December, January and February for testing even though we weren't living in the house. The air temperature was set to 19C and the water temperature was set to 40C and the electricity bill was £43.20 for the three months.
  17. +1 You certainly need some form of heating in bathrooms in PH. We have electric towel rails in our bathrooms which keep those rooms warmer than the living areas and the towels nice and warm. The MVHR extract from those rooms recovering that heat.
  18. It isn't necessary if the PH has a very low space heating requirement. We decided against needing wet UFH with the resultant saving in UFH heat source, pipework, manifolds, valves etc. If the space heating requirement is low enough it can be supplied by warm air through the ventilation system. We use a Genvex Combi 185 for our ventilation, warm air heating and DHW. The warm air heating and DHW is supplied by a 500W EASHP.
  19. In my planning conditions it specifies no loose material within a minimum distance from the road. I have yet to investigate how they would measure that distance as my driveway is not straight.
  20. It is now. https://www.inverse.com/article/7853-permeable-concrete-is-the-mind-melting-future-of-driveways-and-parking-lots
  21. With similar software agreements I have started a new trial period under a different name.
  22. You can get permeable concrete, although at what cost I haven't a clue.
  23. We had the same problem years ago with runoff from the road coming onto our drive. I asked the Highways Dept. if they could do anything as a temporary measure until we started the build. They put a 6m long ridge of asphalt about 100mm wide and 50mm high on top of the edge of the road surface. It lasted several years and was a sod to remove, but it was hot asphalt.
  24. My BCO didn't mention Part G and didn't ask for a certificate. I had told him earlier in the build that all our taps and showers were aerating and that it was to be a low water usage house.
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