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Gone West

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Everything posted by Gone West

  1. Gone West
    Flashband is cold applied.
  2. Gone West
    What about bitumen patch like Flashband.
  3. Gone West
    I've found SBK kills brambles.
  4. Gone West
    @Nickfromwales So was my data of any use in helping you decide whether UFH is worth the bother in a PH?
  5. Gone West
    I think the solution is in the flooring material. In the bathroom and ensuite we have vinyl floor tiles and they are fine. It really shouldn't make any difference whether it's summer or winter because in a PH the temperature doesn't vary much.
  6. Gone West
    Okay, I don't know how scientific this is, but my house has a space heating requirement of 13kWh/m2/a and a heating load of 9W/m2. There is currently no heating of any kind in the house. The outside temperature was 22.8C and it was sunny when I took the temperatures. The wetroom on the ground floor has porcelain tiles directly onto 200mm concrete which has 300mm EPS underneath. Air temp. 24.1C, floor temp 22.6C, room in shade, I've had showers in there and haven't found the floor cold. The hall on the ground floor has the same makeup as the wetroom. Air temp. 25.4C, floor temp 24.1C, some sun. Bathroom on first floor has Amtico Spacia vinyl tiles on 32mm timber flooring with insulation underneath. Air temp. 25.4C, floor temp. 25.3C, some sun. Bedroom on first floor has 14mm bamboo flooring on 2mm underlay on 22mm timber flooring. Air temp. 25.3C, floor temp 24.9C, room in shade. Wendy likes the house warm, which some people would find hot. I don't mind at all, probably old age. The thermostat in the old bungalow was set at 24C, which is why we got through so much oil. I don't bother monitoring temperatures, Wendy is the best judge of comfort levels.
  7. Gone West
    @Nickfromwales I'll have a go later on. Mind you it depends on the insulating effect of the flooring material.
  8. Gone West
    No the ducting is 125mm diameter and is not a manifold system. I designed the ducting system myself and checked with Genvex that it was suitable. The Genvex Combi increases the fan speed automatically if it needs to supply warm air.
  9. Gone West
    I project managed our build and it is very time consuming. I wouldn't consider it unless you can be on site every day. You need to be confident your PM is going to do the job to the standard you want.
  10. Gone West
    We had our Genvex and towel rails running through December, January and February for testing even though we weren't living in the house. The air temperature was set to 19C and the water temperature was set to 40C and the electricity bill was £43.20 for the three months.
  11. Gone West
    +1 You certainly need some form of heating in bathrooms in PH. We have electric towel rails in our bathrooms which keep those rooms warmer than the living areas and the towels nice and warm. The MVHR extract from those rooms recovering that heat.
  12. Gone West
    It isn't necessary if the PH has a very low space heating requirement. We decided against needing wet UFH with the resultant saving in UFH heat source, pipework, manifolds, valves etc. If the space heating requirement is low enough it can be supplied by warm air through the ventilation system. We use a Genvex Combi 185 for our ventilation, warm air heating and DHW. The warm air heating and DHW is supplied by a 500W EASHP.
  13. Gone West
    In my planning conditions it specifies no loose material within a minimum distance from the road. I have yet to investigate how they would measure that distance as my driveway is not straight.
  14. Gone West
    It is now. https://www.inverse.com/article/7853-permeable-concrete-is-the-mind-melting-future-of-driveways-and-parking-lots
  15. Gone West
    With similar software agreements I have started a new trial period under a different name.
  16. Gone West
    You can get permeable concrete, although at what cost I haven't a clue.
  17. Gone West
    We had the same problem years ago with runoff from the road coming onto our drive. I asked the Highways Dept. if they could do anything as a temporary measure until we started the build. They put a 6m long ridge of asphalt about 100mm wide and 50mm high on top of the edge of the road surface. It lasted several years and was a sod to remove, but it was hot asphalt.
  18. Gone West
    My BCO didn't mention Part G and didn't ask for a certificate. I had told him earlier in the build that all our taps and showers were aerating and that it was to be a low water usage house.
  19. Gone West
    We had 32mm ID Polyduct specified by UK Power Networks for our connection. I laid 17m with a hockey stick each end with a draw string. They pulled the cable through with no problems.
  20. Gone West
    You would need a big oven for power coating something that size. When I've had 6m long aluminium angle power coated in the past they've had to put it in diagonally.
  21. Gone West
    I didn't have an 'as designed SAP' either. I had run my design through PHPP and the BCO accepted that instead of the SAP calculations.
  22. Gone West
    We managed an A95 without renewables and it would be A102 with 3.2kWp PV.
  23. Gone West
    All the ones we looked at can be recirculatory but we had to buy the carbon filters separately for ours.
  24. Gone West
    The resin bound is easily good enough for a turning area. We had 200mm compacted type 1 then 70mm asphalt then 18mm resin bound. We don't think we have a separate cost for the resin bound because it was included with having kerbs and edging laid. We haven't laid the resin bonded yet but it will have a similar base and would be good enough for a turning area although it wouldn't be porous. There is a cheaper bitumen bonded surface but the gravel tends to pull away from the surface especially on a turning area
  25. Gone West
    We specified resin bound for our driveway to meet planning conditions. We've had the area next to the road done in resin bound but further back from the road I'll do resin bonded because it's much cheaper and I can do it myself. It also looks the same.
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