Gone West

It's 23.7C at the moment in the house with no heating and it could be hotter and Wendy wouldn't mind at all. I'm happy as long as it's above 21C. It will be interesting to see what temperature we end up with this winter.

@joe90 & @Alphonsox aren't these solutions for low energy houses? What about if it was a conventional house built to current regs. and the only heat source was an oil fired boiler. Wouldn't that make it a lot more complicated compared to radiators? What type of boiler is it? Wouldn't you need a buffer tank?

Where's your spoon, you stirrer .

Excellent! On two separate occasions I have simply told the DNO to move the oversailing cables. Once was after finding the wayleave agreement and claiming the back payments, as none had been paid for years.

Wendy has been reading all these UFH threads and has been amazed by how complex UFH seems to be. She asked me if you could have an UFH system setup that was as simple as a radiator system and I haven't a clue. I installed CH with radiators back in the early nineties and it was just a combi, radiators with TRVs and a bypass towel rail. So if you had just an oil fired boiler what else would be the minimum you would need to have for an efficient UFH system? Buffer tanks, manifolds, pumps, motorised valves, mixers, thermostats...........?

I had 212m2 @ 350mm thick and 74m2 @ 250mm thick of Icynene which cost £9950. The 74m2 @ 250mm thick was in the ground floor ceiling. This works out at £107/m3 which is a little less than bissoejosh at £110/m3 but in the same ballpark. The installers had never sprayed a thickness greater than 100mm before so it took them a while to adjust. There was a lot of excess foam which I removed and disposed of. Icynene and the external 15mm OSB3 racking were the only airtightness layer used and we had an air test result of 0.47ACH. The effects of decrement delay and whether it is is important in a build requires a lot of thought. It is very difficult to model decrement delay and the effects of heavy shading by trees, windy weather, micro-climate or the construction of the build with vented air gaps in the structure will all have an effect. We did consider blown cellulose along with other types of insulation but weren't confident all the problems with sagging had been addressed.

We were the first Isoquick insulated raft foundation installed in the UK and indeed we did have some issues, although no fault of Isoquick. The gory detail is in my blog.

We had too many roofing slates to take to the tip and as we were having the Chrysotile wall and ceiling boards removed we had the same company bag up and dispose of the slates as well. If it's a small amount, around here one bag, the local tip will take it. I would have thought that floor tiles covering the whole ground floor would be more than the local tip would accept. You are supposed to also treat materials that are touching the asbestos as contaminated. We had to have the plasterboard disposed of as well.

If the tiles are well stuck down, permanently covering them would be a good idea. Although I removed my old Chrysotile asbestos roofing slates I would not be so happy about removing asbestos indoors. Also disposing of them legally would still be expensive.

For us BC were strict about distance from house but were happy about being next to boundary, but the boundary is next to an orchard in our case.

We had the electricity connected on 3/12/17 and started the Genvex Combi on the 19/12/17. We also had the electric towel rails on for eight hours a day at that time. We didn't move in until 3/4/18. Up until we moved in the temperature was around 22C. This coming winter will be the first full winter living in here so I will keep a record of what temperature we end up keep it at and our electricity usage.

I used the PHPP to model our house which takes into account solar gain and also the residual heat gain from appliances etc. It might be worth getting a copy if serious about PH values.

I meant that the maximum U factor for PH walls, roof and ground floor is 0.15 w/m2K and that mine are 0.095 W/m2K which allows me to use the space heating system that we have.

@mike2016 We have an all electric PH with SAP A95 and no PV, so it's certainly possible in England.

That's what we found when we went to appeal. It was still rejected but the reasons given allowed us to resubmit an application taking all the inspectors comments into account. I think that was what helped us a lot when we went to committee and won.

Hi and welcome to the forum @Simon R. As has already been stated we have a Genvex Combi 185LS which provides the DHW and backup space heating. The LS version is the larger of the two types of Combi 185. Our main space heating is provided by an electric towel rail in each of the three bathrooms. This form of heating is only possible in our house because the space heating requirement is extremely low and the house is small. Unless you are planning to insulate your house to substantially higher levels than the minimum PH level I would use a different primary space heating method. Good luck with your project.

That's exactly our experience with our cedar cladding. Where the rain blows under the verandah there is a diagonal line of faded cladding below and original colour above. This is the north side before and after with about four years between.

Depends on the width of the chord. My spacing and chord width varies depending on the span and load.

SIPS or slips?

Hi and welcome to the forum. Good luck with the build. IIRC there have been others on here looking into a group build.

You could use high level windows between the bedroom and extended hall with a glass door at the end of the hall into the garden. Another option would be a light tube.

Hi and welcome to the forum. You could knock the two rear bedrooms into one and the extension could be another bedroom. Extend the hall to the rear for access to the bedroom and outside.

Yes we had no trouble from anyone living locally with our application. We only had a complaint when they said we weren't demolishing the old bungalow fast enough.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Good luck with your project.

Our's was L shaped and had single storey and double storey parts. It takes them only a little longer to go around the L so it shouldn't be too high a quote.