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PeterW

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Everything posted by PeterW

  1. Have just realised plan B is more effective and leaves the immersion operational if needed .... Will make a dip tube from the top of the tank through the hot water draw off with a 22/10 reducer ..!
  2. Does anyone have a 1/2" NPT tap that I could borrow, or I would be prepared to tap a hole in a brass blanking plate ..? I want to mount a 1/2 NPT threaded thermowell into a brass immersion blanking plug and I thought I had one but it's 3/8th so wondered if anyone had one lying about ..?
  3. You don't need a solicitor to do this for you - a utilities search can be done yourself. Premier Energy do them and the price starts around £100 plus the VAT
  4. The legionella issue with ASHP is easily solved with either one or two immersions on a weekly timer set to 65c I am looking at using a 250 UVC with a nightly E7 boost to 65c to make the most of early morning reduced rate whilst the ASHP is bringing the buffer and floor up to temperature. Your other option is a DHW UVC at a smaller size and then use the ASHP to heat a buffer tank at 35c - use it for both floor buffer and DHW pre-heat and the ASHP will be at its optimum CoP ASHP has been around long enough now that there are plenty of installers and maintenance is simple. The other benefit of all electric is that you can heat the tanks (albeit a little expensive...) using electric if the ASHP packs up
  5. If you put a marker at the height you want and spray along it the line will be where the straight edge is. Given the tolerance on most laser levels is 0.5mm in 5m, you will be 6mm out over 30m anyway so I would not worry too much. Last ICF build I saw they cut the bottom off the units and spray foamed them to the founds anyway so not sure why polar need that tolerance.
  6. Get a decent slump on it to start with. Go round the trenches with a can of marker spray and put a line every 6ft where the level should be and work to that too
  7. Laser target and an overcast day ...
  8. Used the Sika one on a sandstone patio and it lasted about 2 years and I followed the instructions to the letter ..! I use the premixed sand & cement from B&Q now and pour / brush it in then lightly water with a hose - has lasted about 3 years now and any bits that do break out are easily and cheaply repaired
  9. Welcome (back..!) - how did you find us..? Looks an interesting plot - what's the plan.??
  10. Went to see a mate last week who has bought a new W**pey sh#%box as he's moved with work and the finish kwality is stunning ... everything is stuck on with either foam or pink grip - skip at the end of the road where they are still working is just full of empty tubes and cans ! I have tried that Soudal Fix All though and it's pretty good - refixed a fibreglass trim to a steel door and it did the whole stick/seal/fill without any hassle. Which brand of Sticks Like do you recommend ..?
  11. That's an outside toilet..?!! Tiling is better than in my mates new build..!! Looks very good - hope you're having a doormat so they wipe their feet ...
  12. Or use PinkGrip...??
  13. @Russell griffiths what would you recommend for block built..?? Specifically a lightweight concrete block (not aircrete / celcon etc)
  14. Useful link there @Grosey ..!
  15. I got 6 months broadband out of them for a complete cock up of being unable to use the broadband unless you made a phone call first ... This was business too - think I got about £180 back.
  16. Point of use hydrogen generation is simple - it just needs electricity ..!
  17. Depends how the business gets its funding - and guess what .... it would most likely be a Principal Contractor..!! And round the loop we go again ..!
  18. Do these help ..?? http://www.doordeals.co.uk/products/door-frames-and-mouldings/internal-door-frames/internal-softwood-30-minute-fire-door-casing-(1).aspx
  19. Any chance of a slightly wider shot ..? Just looking at what appears to be four joists sistered up and can't see how the roof is made up. You could come below that wall if you really wanted to but you may need a toughened or laminated panel for BRegs. Are any of those means of escape windows ..?
  20. On a slightly different topic I've just bought a second small LiOn drill - looked at the Makita 10.8v one but then saw the Wickes own brand one next to it for a 1/3rd of the price .. Samsung battery, 2 year warranty and damned near identical ...! I do wonder if these are rebadged Makita stuff as Wickes have moved on to just having Makita and their own. Wonder if they do a cordless saw..??
  21. Always combine - never split ..!! Unless you have a perfect split with a matched flow then you will end up with blockages if you try to split a drain. Only reason for doing it is on big installations (i.e. Hospitals, hotels) and then it's done using weir tanks which are all specialist design and installation items.
  22. Another quick way is to use framed MDF for the panels and hold them back with decent magnets (assuming nothing is "pushed" in...) as they can be lifted out of the way and leave a big space that's easy to put things in through.
  23. Willis Heater is ideal for this situation - it's a couple of hours to retrofit but use compression fittings not push fit as it can get pretty hot on the top tee. Also makes it easier to remove it when you get round to fitting that UVC.....
  24. The issue is one of capital and shareholding. A self builder would have to buy shares in the company to get the capital into the company to purchase the goods. In doing that you then become a shareholder, and the company would own the asset that is now the new house. ... To get the asset out you would need to sell this somehow and welcome to the world of capital gains and corporation tax, along with the spectre of stamp duty ..! Just swapping it for shares is a non starter and I'm no accountant but there is no easy way to get the asset back ...! The only potential option is to "loan" the company the money and then buy your own house back off the company, at which point it repays the loan but that relies on you having the money to loan in the first place ..!
  25. LXT are the new batteries. And I think the point of having more batteries rather than fewer larger ones means you have shorter charge cycles anyway so you can swap and change.
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