James1

How's your cladding looking now? I too used the osmo uv oil but have been unimpressed.

Yes I have.

Hi all, I have the salus auto balancing actuators 230v on a 12 port ufh manifold. I'm also using heatmiser neo stats for each room. I've had them installed for a while now and thought they were fit an forget. It seems they do not work as claimed. I noticed a pipe run was not heating up where i have 4 ports on the manifold to 1 zone, 1 actimuator was randomly closing after a very short period of initial ppenening. I've also just changed another 1 as the pin was not moving far enough to close the valve. Gone and done the recalibrations many time now with limited success. Been sat watching the flow meters while it's in use and played about with it to actually check if it restricts flow when the delta in within 7°. This doesn't actually work. I took the temperature sensor from the return pipe and put it onto the flow pipe next to the other sensor to trick the thing into thinking that the flow and return temp is the same, turns out the flow rate doesn't get restricted at all. So quite pointless really and I'm contemplating changing them all back to the standard actuators and balancing every pipe run manually. Which now seems more like fit and forget. The only thing I can see they are good at is they are quicker to fully open and close than non auto actuators.

Found this statement on a TRA website. Note 1 Notching the bottom Chords of ‘Room in the Roof’ (Attic) Trusses to a maximum depth o 5mm is permitted in order to accommodate gable lateral restraint straps as required b Building Regulations.

These are a great shout. 1.6mm thich.?

They are trusses premade from a truss manufacturer.

There is no block work. 145x45 timber frame walls with cladding exterior.

Building a timber frame garage with attic trusses above, i have a question about the tying of the gable wall and gable panel to the roof trusses. It states i am to use lateral restraint straps spanning across 3 trusses on the rafters and ceiling joists to the gable panel, is it ok to notch the trusses where the strap passes in order to let the strap sit flush so as to not foul the plasterboard when it gets fitted. Hope this makes sense. Thanks.

Is that just in the tin though or does it actually show on the cladding?

we fitted some western red cedar about 3 years ago and used 2 coats of the clear osmo uv oil . It does now look like it needs doing again soon and im tempted to go with the oak version. Is this what you used Moira?Osmo UV Protection Oil Tints 425 Oak. And is it ok to go on top of the clear coat. I read somewhere about the oak 425 having a white tint to it. Any truth in that? Thanks

Hi all. Whats your thoughts on a vcl being fitted to a detached garage/workshop plus bonus/games room in attic truss space. Garage will be timber frame with cladding. I will insulate walls and ceilengs but not sure if i should put a vcl in as well. I can see it just getting used at weekends ect and only heated some of the time. My thinking is that periods of no use/heat will actually cause condensation if i DO fit a vcl as the inside temp could be colder than outside through the day.

No the lights are not purchased yet but the ones im looking at have a 2m flex on them. Just having another thought, do you think i would be better doing it all with 12v lighting instead. As the bulbs will all be low volt LED anyway. Im led to believe i would then not need swa cable after the transformer and just use a double insulated 2 core, easier to terminate at each junction box and can still be buried. There is a wider choice of jb's for cable without needing to terminate the swa. Any cons going that way?

Im looking to put a series of spike lights around the house approx 12 units and wondering how best/cost effective it will be to have so many joints. The supply will need to be swa cable as it will be underground and need a 3 way junction box at each fitting. The lights have a flex on them. I dont want juction boxs on show so intend to have them just underground (stone chip border between house and slabbed path)with the flex coming straigth down and into junction box. Can anyone say what junction boxs they would use for this and also if resin filled would be required. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks